60 series diesel . High oil pressure problems?

My old HJ60 non turbo used to cut out at one stage. Driving down the freeway and the motor just stopped. Did this a few times. Turned out to be the battery.

Mate......My 60 Series diesel [no turbo] does the same thing intermittently but only at a cold start. In my case it doesn't always happen but I've noticed it occurs more frequently when the 4bee hasn't been used for a week or 2.
Neither the local mechanic nor mates have been able to shed any light on the problem. If you do learn the cause, please post to the website.
Cheers,

Have a look at things like:

Edic motor
Fuel control relay &
Low oil cutout switch.

Most of thoes will shut the motor down without warning if they are at fault.

Hi mfewster
Am unaware of such a switch, but if you have high oil pressure your pressure relief valve on top of you oil filter body may be sticking or worn, this will sometimes result in a disfigured oil filter or blown oil filter seal.
Sounds more like your injector pump cut out is playing up, ( which usually kills motor when you switch it off).
I suppose you have checked all the fuel system filters etc including the water trap one on the chassis at the back?
Dont think these are electrically connected to cutting out engine though.

Cheers Pesty

I assume you are talking about the 2H diesel engine of which I am very familiar with and have rebuilt quite a few. This problem is quite commen with these engines when they have done a few Ks.This engine has a LOW oil pressure cut out switch as a safety device. If the vehicle stands for a period of time the oil will drain from the egine to the sump, if the engine is a bit worn and the oil pressure takes a little more time to pick up somtimes the cut out switch will activate and shut the engine down but it will be OK on the second start. This is not something to be conserned about unless you are getting a cut out while driving or at engine idle.
The oil pressure relive valve is situated in the oil pump at the bottom front of the engine just behind the front pully it consists of a spring loaded ball. The ball sometimes wears into the alluminum seat or the spring loses tension and a drop in pressure results. It can be accessed easly by a large plug I think a1inch ring spanner to take out the ball and spring. There is a nominal length for the spring,cant remember what it is,but its in the workshop manual.
Another interesting problem Arrises from this pressure relive valve, that is a loss of vacum to the brakes, The vacum pump located on the back of the alternator has vanes that are forced out by oil pressure and if the pressure is low the vanes are not properly seated and result in a lack of vacume to the brakes.
Hope this is of some help,,,, Regards Nav. PS. The cut out protection switch is seperate to the pressure relive valve.

I saw a dodgey engine earth strap terminal also create this problem on a twin headlight 60 series. But FYI, Also seen 2 x 2h oil pressure relief valves in the timing cover stick when they get a few miles on them. When they stick they blow the oil filter clean off at the crimp and you lose all your oil and then the low oil pressure cut off cuts the engine. Both of these engines had just changed the brand of oil that they used and the valve must have sat in a different place in the bore (due to viscosity). Apparantley a corolla valve will fit in there (which is a fraction longer than the original) so that the timing cover doesn't need to be replaced or sleeved or whatever.

Gidday,

Only run my non turboed 60 series at weekend - have same problem on first start - at times will occur twice - advised by Toyota trained mecnic that it is due to low oil pressure - increase of revs slightly with hand throttle on cold start and no problem.

Seeya

C

Thanks everyone
I have passed all these to my local mechanic and he is working through them.
Using the handthrottle slightly when coldstarting seems to have fixed the cutout on start up.

I recall a post from some time back, someone mentioned that an engine immobiliser had been fitted and the shut off to the solenoid had been used as part of the alarm/immobiliser, the wiring had been shaken loose or rubbed through and the result was some inconsistant shut downs from time to time.
The factory turbo does have a solenoid (?) controlled fast idle from start up, perhaps you guys are on the right track with a low cold idle.
I would imagine that the gear used in the factory turbo could be retrofitted to an aftermarket set up???