80 Amp Low Voltage Cutout Kit for $18 - no idle current

for $19?
I'll even throw in a roll of duct tape to use as a makeshift case for your new isolator- thats gotta save you $200... give or take a few hundred.

Because there is no heat output from a continuously energised coil, you can use any type of housing (even VERY thick duct tape)

Mike

500u=microamp is one-thousandth of 500m=milliamp

500uAmp=1/2000th Amp so it uses one-twohundredth of those that use 1/10th Amp.

Mike

Thanks Mike, That is miniscule, I might get one myself !!

Cheers Tony

As Low Battery Cutout connect the "Main" terminal to the Auxilairy Battery and connect the "Aux" terminal to the appliance sockets.

Mike

Tim

There is a screwdriver-control so you can set the switch-on voltage to what you want - between 13.2 and 15.2 volts. The switch-off voltage is 0.5 lower. You can even set it up for 24 volt systems.

If you are using as LowVoltage Cutout between Aux Battery and appliances, then the switching voltage needs to be even lower and they suggest using different resistors to achieve this. Dropout can be set between 10.0 and 11.7 volts with cut-in voltage 0.6 volt higher than this.

There is a holdon-delay after it first switches on, but there is no holdon-delay after low-voltage is detected. It will only take a dollar's worth of components to add a feature like this.

That's the great thing about building something yourself with full documentation - you can modify it so it works the way YOU want it to work !

When I have some time, I will experiment with these variations.

Mike

Thanks Mike,

Sounds like a good option. I built a Dick Smith low voltage cutout kit (K3124) to control the output from my aux battery (12v) in my 24v HJ61 and that works well.

I have a Redarc isolator to control the charging of the aux battery. Redarc kindly changed the cut in/out voltage for me and it works well, but the drain when the controller is on is too high for my liking and I suspect the Redarc is not quite suited to my requirements - perhaps a bit of an overkill.

My problem is that I draw the 12v from a centre tap in my 24v system, and have a Redarc Charge Equaliser to balance the charge between the two batteries. So every time I stop the motor, the Redarc isolator is draining the lower 12v battery at half an amp until it cuts out at 12.2v. Then on restart the charge eqaliser (rated at 20A) has to balance the charge between the high and low batteries. If the aux battery has been drained too, then essentially the lower 12v battery is charging the aux battery itself and the equaliser has to balance THAT load as well. Often the vehicle is not run for long distances - another completely different issue! But when it is run for a long time, the system works okay. Strangely the aux battery reaches 12.7/8V when the main batteries are less than 12.6v buts that a separate mystery. At least I know my wiring is up to scratch and it's a differnt problem to most, who have problems getting enough volts to their remote battery!

The half amp drain of the Redarc is not helpful in these circumstances, and as I said, it may not be the right piece of equipment in these circumstances. I get around the drain problem by hitting the starter after I've turned the vehicle off and am going to park it up for overnight or more. The Redarc Isolator then drops out because of the sharp high drain of the starter - thereby maintaining full charge in both high and low batteries for the next week or whatever until I use the vehicle again. I could probably get away with another Dick Smith kit in place of the Redarc, but the Oatley kit would also be good and has a higher power relay already supplied. It's low current draw is very attractive.

The instructions/description are over my head, so I'd need Dick Smith/Jaycar type instructions regarding adding the timer delay.

Tim