Retrofitting Electric Brakes

Submitted: Wednesday, Jan 18, 2006 at 08:18
ThreadID: 29822 Views:6765 Replies:4 FollowUps:2
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I have a Dingo camper (dont pooh pooh it - its been a good unit for us!) with an Alko axle and I would like to retrofit electric brakes. Has anyone done this? What are the pitfalls and does anyone have a ballpark cost?
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Reply By: Ray Bates - Wednesday, Jan 18, 2006 at 09:29

Wednesday, Jan 18, 2006 at 09:29
I fitted some electric brakes to my sons duel axel trailer some months ago. The all up cost was $1500.oo. I used the existing axel. The material was purchased from a trailer parts place in Joondalup W.A. and included the brake drums backing plates, brake shoes, calipers, bearings and magnets. The vehicle previously had over-run hydraulic brakes.
The existing backing plates,shoes drums, bearings and calipers become scrap.
The tools that are required are a welding machine, general tools and possible a bearing puller. Cabling and controler was not supplied in the kit.
I would hope that you should manage the conversion for $800.oo DIYS.
I hope that this information helps.

P.S. The axel needs to be removed from the vehicle
AnswerID: 149331

Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Wednesday, Jan 18, 2006 at 09:40

Wednesday, Jan 18, 2006 at 09:40
I just bought an offroad cutomline camper 2nd hand without brakes and looking at the same thing.
My trailer is 500kg empty and rated to 750kg max loaded.
Still thinking of brakes even though legally I don't need them.
Went back to customline to see if they can convert it to electric brakes for me.
$750.00 about depending.

So far I have worked out the following:
1. Alko make an off electric road brake hub and back plate set with better magnets.
Can buy at Camec or similar caravan store, good chance to have a gander before going to far.
2. Need a square axle you have a round one.
3. Need to check track to see if axle can be reused (if square) and how to mount backing plate.
4. Need to decide on what type of brake control to use, in car or put adjustment on trailer, pro and cons to both. I think I will put the control on the trailer.
5. Can mount handbrake (cable connect to brakes) on draw bar, need to work out where so stone shield, spare tyre, and back door or car opening miss the handle.
6. Need power supply to brakes with a 10amp fuse. Usually a seperate pin in a 7 pin plug. I need to double check fuse size.

7. There is at least three other things that will happen in the conversion I havn't thought of :-).

Hope that helps in some way.
AnswerID: 149333

Follow Up By: Member - Paul L (VIC) - Wednesday, Jan 18, 2006 at 13:10

Wednesday, Jan 18, 2006 at 13:10
Olplodder - thank you. I am in exactly the same boat as you. thank you all for you info
FollowupID: 402550

Follow Up By: Jeepster-WA - Thursday, Jan 19, 2006 at 01:49

Thursday, Jan 19, 2006 at 01:49
7. There is at least three other things that will happen in the conversion I havn't thought of :-).

And one of those would have to be murphy.

I was thinking of doing the same with overridde hydraulics, but people seem to prefer electric, why? My trailer would be the same about 750kg loaded.
FollowupID: 402798

Reply By: Noosa Fox - Thursday, Jan 19, 2006 at 15:44

Thursday, Jan 19, 2006 at 15:44
Several years back we had a Cruiser towing a camper with over-ride brakes, and we had a scar when Cruiser rear brakes locked because trailer was still pushing, so the next day I went to a local trailer manufacturer and bought a new axel with electric brake hubs fitted. Never had a problem afterwards and even though it was only around the 750kg loaded, it felt much safer driving it.

When fitting the electric brakes, make sure the cable is well protected, and run it inside the chassie if possible. When it comes to running the cable from one side to the other, fit it behind the axel and secure it with METAL clamps and not cable ties, as the rocks just love cutting through the cable ties. (Been there & done that).
Doing it tuff, Towing a Bushtracker.

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AnswerID: 149619

Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Thursday, Jan 19, 2006 at 21:45

Thursday, Jan 19, 2006 at 21:45
Thanks for the ideas about the handbrake cables.

Did umm and ahhh about electric versus overrider.
Have heard electric requires a little maintenance and care.
The overider may be simpler, but it worries me going into a gully that the brakes may come on just through weight of the trailer.
But then I have towed a friends trailer with electric with the brake control on the trailer, and found just a touch of the brakes pulls the trailer out of a sway.

AnswerID: 149712

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