Lokka in Challenger

Buy a Patrol?

Sorry, your question was pretty general. But like other challenger owners I know it sounds like you've explored your vehicle to it's limits and it may be time to move on.

I know from experience I'm not spending any more on my truck (even though ARB have just released an Air Locker for it) - I'm far better off putting that money toward a more capable truck in 18 months or so's time.

I know two other Challenger owners doing the same thing.

Dave

I'd be putting lockers in that space shuttle 4wd that would be the ultimate.

lokka is cheaper for a reason.

As stated, you have pretty much found the limits of this truck. How much are you willing to blow on it before moving on?

I'm a bit pithed at he moment and can't understand why you would consider posting when you own a mibufishi wallenger

Get a jack and come back

Well said Explorer.

So I guess for clarity, a little background on what we're wanting to do with the vehicle.
Like most 4x4ers I reackon, we go off-road a couple of times a month or more. That means better than 90% of the time we're poodling around on the blacktop.
This is our daily driver. It does that comfortably and does almost everything we've asked of it whilst having fun off road too.

We like camping and fishing and this vehicle is just the right size to cart me and SWMBO where we need to go with the gear we need when we get there.

We can't justify having a truck to drive every day in order to get those few places the Challenger can't get to (now)

We've been out with a few clubs and its gone everywhere the other vehicles have gone, lets face it, most of the time its more important where you put your wheels and planning your approach than it is how high or tough your vehicle is.
However, out by ourselves we've gotten stuck a couple of times with one of each wheel (front and back) off the ground and going nowhere. 15 mins with a shovel, and we're on the go again, but with drive to the wheels getting traction we would have driven out first time.

It carries about 2/3 (or less) the weight of a troopie. Runs on a heck of a lot less fuel than most 4x4's, and with a little tweaking will very likely get us everywhere we're likely to want to get to in the next few years.

If the reason the Lokka is cheaper is because its not as good then tell me why. If its cheaper because it uses less parts, is a simpler mechanism, and I can put it in myself then thats a good reason for me to consider it. If its going to drastically affect our daily blacktop driving then thats definately going to be a black mark against it.
At $700-800 for a Lokka vs $2000 for the ARB there's a heck of a difference. I agree that if we're spending thousands then its probably a good idea to look at what we're doing and find a vehicle more suitable for the job. However, the Challenger is a 2000 model, worth under $20k. What would we get that would still be a reasonable daily driver, good on fuel, and then much better off road too. Not much. If I can spend a grand or so and make this vehicle twice as capable as it is from stock then that was money well spent in my books.

The other (very good reason) is that we're committed to keeping the vehicle for the next 2 years odd.
So lets forget about changing cars, I'll get back to you on that in a couple of years on that score. For now, if you've got any idea's how I can make the best of the vehicle I've got then lets hear them :-)

Locked Drive Systems Pty Limited
5 Peel Street, Granville, NSW, 2142, Australia
Phone: +61 (0) 2 9897 7912
Fax: +61 (0) 2 9897 7913

Give these fellows a call and have a talk.
They will set you on the rite direction.

All the best
Eric

For the workshop manuals try

http:/www.pajero.dn.ru/Factory-manual-89.html

Not sure if this still works but it did have pdf files for the Challenger/Triton under the Montero section

Nothing really wrong with the Lokka Diff locks. A lot of guys run them and very happy with them.

They are substantially cheaper because they are completely different to the ARB lockers.

The Lokka Diff locks are essentially , and Auto UNlocker. by that I mean , They are locked all the time , and unlock to go around corners.

the ARB are Air lockers that can turn on and off as required.

The guys I know that run them , say they notice none to very little difference in everyday driving , ie 2wd.

Have given a lot of thought to putting a diff lock in our Challa as we have bogged down towing the CT.
1 Would put it in the rear. Uphill traction from the front is going to be less when you need it most.
2 Would avoid a Detroit in case it failed to unlock on bitumen in which case the drive train would really take too much strain. You could fix this with ARB freewheeling hubs but that's more expense.
3 Would find the money for ARB because it gives most control and you get a compressor as well. ( Would mean I would have to sell current Thomas compressor. but that is irrelevant here).
4 A lottery win would see an ARB locker front and back.

I improved Challa's performance a lot with a set of Yoko AT tyres.

Ignore the crap about Challas, for the bucks they go well.

Cheers
Camper

Tome
I would not get riled at the crap they post about Challengers not being capable.... At least they don't cost us a fortune for the 95% time they are on the road. Their light weight helps immensly in getting up some tracks and besides most of the people bagging them spew when a Challenger gets up some of the grades the other guys get up. Heres your link for your workshop manual.
http://www.4x4extremesports.com/Manuals/PajeroSport/G-TITLE.pdf
Dave

Hi t0me,

About the Lokka - I've considering one for a while too - for a Holden Frontera (around $599) I believe.

Like you I can't justify the bucks on an air-locker. I just wouldn't use it enough. I couldn't justify an electric winch for the same reason.

I've read that you will probably notice a clicking sound when cornering with a Lokka - whether you're in 4WD or not. (I'm guessing this applies front and rear.)

Note that the Australian Defence Forces fit Lokkas to their vehicles - so that should be a pretty good endorsement. They could not afford to risk equipment failures on the battlefield.

To avoid CV joint damage and undue wear, consider manual locking hubs so the front diff doesn't move at all when you're not in 4WD. (Manufacturers claim an improvement in fuel economy too - which I could certainly use - but I haven't tested yet.)

I have a set of AVM hubs on order from ARB ($220).

Cheers,

Benn

hI t0me , We have build a challenger in the past , got some good mud tyres on it and it performed well. It now runs front and rear airlockers , and yes if you move your canister , you will find room for the compressor . If you want to go the lokker , you will find it will perform well. After fitting a few of these , the only one that stuffed up andwas mine on my 80 lol , just a bit of bad luck I guess , sheered a bin , and the fix was not costly at all. Be ware of people who bag things that they have never used or even seen . With front and rear lokkers , you will find that with muds , your traction will be exellent , but the vehicle will bog down a little on very steep hills , as it doisnt have the power. Make sure you cut off the bottom of the mudflaps , as you will loose a flair with it , if you dont. There are heaps of after market fits fo rthe front end now as well , to get it up .

I had a highly modified cruiser and my mate Tony with his challenger came to most of the places I went . But the first key was good mud tyres

and dont forget to note , that I did say most places lol.

have fun

Hi t0me,

Sorry 'bout the delay in getting back to you.

Re: front hubs. On the Frontera, you can shift-on-the-fly into 4WD and back again, but the front hubs are permanently locked - so the front axles, CVs, diff and drive shaft always rotate whether you're in 4WD or not.

If the Challenger has automatic front hubs, then they should engage/disengage automatically when you shift in and out of 4WD. (I understand you usually need to reverse a short distance to get automatic hubs to disengage.)

I don't know much about Challengers - you might want to check that the front hubs really are 'automatic' or whether you have a 'basic' shift-on-the fly system like the Frontera. If they are truly automatic, then you don't need to worry about getting a manual set.

Re: damage to front CVs and CV boots. You would only experience unusual wear if you've had the suspension raised a reasonable amount above factory.

I've installed a 3" lift, which significantly increases the angles on the front axles - hence the likelihood of excess wear on the CVs and CV boots. The lift supplier recommended manual locking hubs to reduce wear. (Important for me as I spend about 90% of my time on the black-top.) Don't mind the idea of reducing wear on the front diff too.

They also suggest (open) manual hubs will reduce fuel consumption, which could be true given the car won't be pushing the extra front drivetrain metal around most of the time.

Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Benn

Locking hubs are just that - they lock (and unlock) at the hub. So when they're unlocked the front wheels free-wheel at the hub and don't drive the front axle, diff etc.

Manual locking hubs have a spline system that slides laterally to engage/disengage when you twist the 'knob'. To be honest, I don't know how automatic hubs work, but they're supposed to engage when you go into 4WD and disengage when you change out (though, like I siad, you often have to reverse a short distance to get them to unlock).

Check out AVM's (or Superwinch's) website for more info on manual and automatic hubs.

Cheers,

Benn