GU flares
Submitted: Sunday, Jan 29, 2006 at 22:42
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junior
Anyone out there know of a mob manufacturing non-genuine replacement wheel arch plastic flares for the GU (pre 2005 model update)??? Genuine item is just absurdly priced.
Reply By: V8Diesel - Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 00:09
Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 00:09
When I was quoted approx $900 per wheel after ripping one set off on the first weekend out in the scrub. Second set got wiped off by Skippy. I just fixed them.
I went to Nissan and bought all new clips (2 types) and then set to work on the flares. Here's the trick. Line up the busted bits that the clips slot into with the corresponding flare.
Get a soldering iron and throroghly 'scallop' the inside surfaces so it has a sort of rough fish scale pattern. Now put it together and 'weld' the two outer bits together by smearing the molten plastic from one side to the other using the soldering iron again.
Once you have an assembled unit, get a fresh tube of Liquid Nails and fill the inside of the fittings, always being careful not to get air pockets. This will partially adhere the two bit together and will also 'key' into the fish scales and set. There you go.
I have done two sets of flares this way and found them to be stronger than the puny original clips (which are paper thin in
places). This method changes nothing in terms of attachment, just makes the brackets / clips as strong as they should have been from the factory.
People will tell you it wont work.........it will.
Good luck!
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Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 08:07
Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 08:07
Hi, The only reason the little pockets are so thin attached to the flare is so that the flares do not end up with a sink line on the outside of the flare. So it is made so flimsy for looks only. There is no reason other than looks to do this. It is also just about impossible to remove the flares without breaking these little clip housings off if you remove the flare or bump them for that matter. Considering the cost of the flares, i think owners would say,"to hell' for the sink marks on the flare , and vote for a stronger part.. Michael
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Follow Up By: junior - Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 05:32
Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 05:32
Michael, I reckon they can make these flares with stronger clip bases without the 'sink' marks you speak of- I doubt they're welded on- they'd be a one-piece mantufactured part. I reckon they've done it
a) so they can sell us an absurdly priced part with insane mark-up when they invariably get busted OR
b) so that those clip bases 'give way' when the flare is impacted to reduce the likelihood of those bases pushing in the body panel behind them.
Either way, I refuse to play their game- i'm getting a 'plastic welding' guru to weld all around the base of every clip base on every flare- bloke reckons he should be able to avoid the sink marks too!
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Thursday, Feb 02, 2006 at 01:45
Thursday, Feb 02, 2006 at 01:45
used to fix old bike fairings the same way with a soldering iron and clothes peg!
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Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Thursday, Feb 02, 2006 at 10:48
Thursday, Feb 02, 2006 at 10:48
The clips are definately moulded as part of the original flare, Nissan dont care if your guard is damaged, they just want it to look nice, So if you make the clip thinner in section that the flare section, the plastic will not sink or you can minimise the sink mark on the outside of the flare. Being made of Polypropylene, it wont glue properly but can be "stuck on' with some glues, if you know what i mean. The plastic welding guys may be ok, if he gets it molten enough an uses the correct filler rod. Being in the injection moulding industry for 30 years, i can tell you that once you have the moulds, you could produce each flare for cost, around $5.00 each. Those moulds would cost around $200,000 for each of the four corners.. Michael
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Follow Up By: junior - Friday, Feb 03, 2006 at 19:00
Friday, Feb 03, 2006 at 19:00
$200k a mould- Now THAT's pricey!!!
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Reply By: Member - Melissa - Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 23:44
Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 23:44
Junior,
Firstly I have to say I like V8Diesels "fix" especially since the flare is busted anyway so nothing to lose by having a go. The flare over the drivers side passenger door on our GU has been broken for awhile (at the clip) but as you say price of genuine replacement is absurd so we simply haven't bothered. Anyway, last week I had a little disagreement with a
sign post and the Nissan came off second best. The drivers side rear bumper was busted and adjacent flare deeply gauged so both being replaced under insurance. I asked the panel beater to
check the other broken flare whilst he was at it. He said they have a glue/
putty type stuff similiar to that black stuff used in windscreen fitments which they can use on the broken flare. If nothing else it will stop it flapping about. Other than that, to replace altogether he reckoned about $150-$200 much cheaper than Nissan quoted so it may be worth your while getting some quotes through panel beaters rather than Nissan. If the glue thing doesn't work I might give V8's idea a go.
:o) Melissa
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Follow Up By: junior - Friday, Feb 03, 2006 at 19:06
Friday, Feb 03, 2006 at 19:06
Sounds like you might be talking about Sikaflex 252- used for fitting body mouldings etc- have got mates who have done it this way.
The panel beater route was one that I was thinking of with my original post- they often have access to non-genuine parts at much cheaper prices as you said.
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