3.0lt GU Patrol engine warning light

Submitted: Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 21:50
ThreadID: 30269 Views:27700 Replies:16 FollowUps:17
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G'day, just wondering if anyone can offer any suggestions as to what specifically may be causing the engine warning light to come on from time to time on my 3.0lt diesel GU Patrol.
Before you all reply telling me what a heap of $#%@ this engine is, and how it won't last for much longer, I already know all that!
I took it to the Nissan dealer this morning who hooked it up to their computer and said this was due to turbo pressure or lack of it, and that there may be a leak in a hose or a crack in the intercooler. I was told it would be highly unlikely that the problem would be with the turbo itself.
If anyone knows of or has had any experience with this type of problem I'd love to hear about it as I'll be back at the Nissan dealer on Thursday morning so they can start pulling it apart to locate the problem.
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Reply By: ACDC - Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 21:55

Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 21:55
The first thing i would do is clean the airflow sensor it's the most common cause of the engine light coming on.
AnswerID: 151944

Follow Up By: smannixx - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 11:59

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 11:59
two things to look at !
check to see if injector pump is not over fueling (will probably need to be done buy diesel mechanic) also, check out the amount of build up of soot & carbon in the exhaust.
after having a simular problem with mine & speeking to a real professionals help (not the bloody dealers) i had the injector pump overhualed, the turbo tickled, & a new section of exhaust pipe fitted it runs like a dream, has improved fuel economy, & i think a bit more power.(all for around $2000 give or take.)

good luck they are a great bus... stef.
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FollowupID: 405612

Reply By: sav - Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 22:18

Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 22:18
Earth strap issue is also a common cause for random error codes (i.e. engine warning light).
Sounds like yours wasn't a random code however....

Sav.
AnswerID: 151958

Reply By: MartyB - Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 22:19

Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 22:19
We had one at work that was doing this. First couple of times the local dealer drained the tanks & blamed contaminated fuel. Third time they replaced the Injector pump. Hate to know what it cost but it hasn't done it since.
When the warning light came it would suffer a dramatic loss of power. Stopping the engine for a few minutes would seem to solve the problem. When it was restarted it would run fine for another couple of hundred KMs.
Didn't sound like a dirty fuel problem to me, but the dealer always knows best.

Marty.
AnswerID: 151960

Follow Up By: GUPatrol - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:18

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:18
"Stopping the engine for a few minutes would seem to solve the problem. When it was restarted it would run fine for another couple of hundred KMs."

Sounds like the software for this vehicle is written by Microsoft!!

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FollowupID: 405579

Reply By: Notso - Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 22:35

Monday, Jan 30, 2006 at 22:35
That is the list of fault codes.

In mine the most common one I have had was caused by a bad earth on the rocker cover on the left hand side as you look at the motor from the front.

The best thing to do is take it to a Nissan Dealer and get it diagnosed.

Before they let you spend money on a new computer if that's what they reckon it is clean the earth connections?

Fault codes
0102 Air Flow Sensor
0103 Coolant temp sender
0104 Vehicle speed sensor
0203 Throttle pedal switch
0208 Cooling Fan control
0301 Engine ECU
0402 Fuel temperature sensor
0403 Throttle pedal position sensor
0406* Intake air volume VNC system
0407 Crankshaft position sensor
0502* Battery voltage
0504 Auto Trans communication line
0701 Injection Pump –cam ring position sensor
0702 Injection Pump –TDC pulse sensor
0703 Injection Pump communication line
0704 Injection Pump –spill valve
0705 Injection Pump –ECU
0706 Injection Pump –spill valve
0707 Injection Pump injection timing control
0802 Engine ECU
0804* Engine ECU
0807 Stop lamp switch
0901 Engine ECU
0902 Engine ECU relay
0903* Engine ECU
0905 Intake air pressure sensor
1003 EGR volume control valve
1004 Injection Pump –fuel cut out system
AnswerID: 151965

Reply By: Lyds- Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 00:04

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 00:04
does it only come on when on bumpy or corrugated roads?

does it only flicker on for brief moments?

is the vehicle still travelling OK when it comes on?

if so, mine does this, so let me know how you go?

BTW, I don't register an error code.

I do have a dtronic fitted.

AnswerID: 151990

Follow Up By: Gio - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 07:13

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 07:13
It comes on intermittently. At first only when towing & more recently under normal driving conditions (not towing). When the light comes on it stays on until ste vehicle is switched off.
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FollowupID: 405565

Follow Up By: Lyds- Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 11:37

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 11:37
dang, I hate it when nobody seems to have the same problems I do.

good luck!
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FollowupID: 405607

Reply By: Member - Andrew(WA) - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 00:45

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 00:45
Gio

have you noticed it after short trips only...say a small drive somewhere before the engine has the chance to warm up...then you start the engine shortly after again when still cold?
AnswerID: 151993

Follow Up By: Gio - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 07:15

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 07:15
Andrew see above follow-up
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FollowupID: 405566

Reply By: hl - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 08:14

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 08:14
Hi,
I had mine come on with similar symptons, i.e. lack of power, light on.
I changed the fuel filter and it hasn't come on since (done about 15000km since)
Worth a try. Although if the dealer read an error code, may be different.
Note that the light will come on from the float switch inside the fuel filter if there is water in the fuel. However, if it comes on for that reason it will not set an error code.
Cheers

AnswerID: 152008

Follow Up By: Member JD- Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:41

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:41
Hi All,
I've have had the same thing happen to mine,what I do is pump the primer pump a couple of times and stop start the engine...maybe 2,3 times..pumping the primer pump every time; the light goes out after I do this so for me and my logic...fuel filter,tighter conections is the way to go..do the simple things first eliminate the bullshyte first..allways ask on forums first...hopefully someone has been there before you..it may stop some "honest mech" shaken all your money out of your pockets!!.
Hope this helps.
JD
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FollowupID: 405588

Reply By: fourstall2000 - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:25

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:25
A previous reply to your query has given you the fault codes,these are also listed in the Gregory manual for you vehicle,it also details how you can check the fault codes yourself by bridging out the terminals 1-8 and counting the flashes of the engine light.
But as you have had the Nissan computer diagnose you should be on the right track.
I had a similar problem with the light coming on at random but it turned out to be the Air flow sensor.
Regards
AnswerID: 152019

Reply By: brd - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:37

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:37
I'd agree that the air flow sensor is certainly worth cleaning. It costs nothing to do & is a quick easy job. I don't really think that the standard air filter is the best set up for dusty roads. It may well be adequate, but a minor film of dust does get through, and is enough to coat the sensor. The sensor must be clean to work accurately.

That's about the only problem mine suffered in 200,000 kms (2001 model), although the warning light did flicker on and off occasionally over corregations.

Best of luck.
AnswerID: 152021

Follow Up By: Member JD- Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:45

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 09:45
Hi brd
I havent tried this but have spoken to some that have the sensor is delicate so be very carefull,some have actually broken there's.
JD
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FollowupID: 405589

Follow Up By: brd - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 10:15

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 10:15
The sensor has no moving parts that affect calibration. It measures resistance through a wire, that varies with the amount of cooling air flowing past it (as I underdtand it). It doesn't appear to be fragile, but I have been gentle when cleaning the unit...no abrasives, no harsh solvents etc. I couldn't see any problems for the average person.
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FollowupID: 405593

Follow Up By: bombsquad - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 11:39

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 11:39
Brake cleaner in the aerosols was recommended to me by nissan - presuming the 2.8 has a similar sensor to the 3 litre. I noticed the car felt a little more responsive after doing this, but economy was unchanged as far as I can tell. The eliment wire looked a little fragile to me, and scared me a little as a replacement unit is about a grand....

Cheers Andrew
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FollowupID: 405608

Reply By: Spankys - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 11:44

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 11:44
This is the fault for no 4 or no 1 piston about to blow up. I would drive it to Nissan and get a new engine fitted straight away. This will save on your towing costs when it ultimately dies.
AnswerID: 152032

Follow Up By: Leroy - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 14:27

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 14:27
Good constructive reply......u idiot...

Leroy
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FollowupID: 405639

Reply By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 12:47

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 12:47
Had this problem for a while last year .

Did the error code check a lot of times and the logged fault changed a few times and then seemed to set one of the couple of codes ( at random ) for injection pump replacement.

The thing that cured my vehicle was that it went on for so long that I had to do a service , when I changed the fuel filter my problems were solved. Change my filter at 10k now not 40 as in the manual.

If you get out of it with just an air leak you will be lucky , I was looking to book mine in for a pump change $$$$

Glenn
AnswerID: 152048

Follow Up By: Leroy - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 14:29

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 14:29
When having mine serviced recently the mech said that nissan are going to change the fuel filter interval to 30k instead of 40k. i decided to get mine changed at the 30k service. Doesn't hurt to do them more frequently anyway.

Leroy
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FollowupID: 405640

Follow Up By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 16:14

Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 16:14
One of the guys I work with has a newer one on lease , whatever dealership he uses does them at 20k .

I was talk to the boys about my problem and when it was solved one guy said he did all his fuel filters at 10k , I mean its not really going to break the bank ( unless you use genuine nissan filters $90 )

Havent had any dramas since , except the head gasket is getting done on Friday.

Glenn.

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FollowupID: 405959

Follow Up By: Leroy - Saturday, Feb 04, 2006 at 08:52

Saturday, Feb 04, 2006 at 08:52
Head gasket???? What's the story there?

I wouldn't anything except genuine filters, especdially while under warranty. I think it was $40+ dollars for a 3.0l filter.

Leroy
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FollowupID: 406679

Follow Up By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 11:55

Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 11:55
Using coolant and smoke cloud on start up .

Nearly had heart failure when I talked to the guy at the workshop and he goes ' wait and see what happens cause I have seen a few cracked bores in this model '

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FollowupID: 407725

Reply By: jorgejhandal - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 13:59

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 13:59
I had similar problems, wwhen I went uphill in high altitudes, the dealer replaced 1 airmass sensor( the ecu threw this error air mass. but it still continued , then my intercooler started leaking so the dealer changed it and the light never came on again not even when my engine blew 2004 nissan patrol 65K.
I guess it was the intercooler that was cracked and didnt notice it until the crack became bigger
AnswerID: 152064

Follow Up By: 3.0turbob - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 15:36

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 15:36
In post 28973 you said it was a 2003 patrol ????
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FollowupID: 405648

Follow Up By: Member - toohey - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 16:28

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 16:28
g'day jorge
in your first post you said there was oil on the road when your motor blew,was your cracked intercooler the cause of engine failure.
cheers toohey
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FollowupID: 405654

Follow Up By: jorgejhandal - Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 01:50

Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 01:50
yes I posted 2003 but I purchased it on january 2004 so here the year of the vehicle its when it was sold. sorry about that.
the cause of the engine failure I dont think it was the intercooler, the oil that leaked came from the engine, it was cracked like two pistons, a hole in one and the area around the diesel heaters, and the cover was cracked too, thats where the engine was leaking. What I noticed before the engine blew that once in a while the engine started throwing by the exhaust white smoke intermediately, after being on 10 or 20 minutes, also several times when I started the engine it started but it did it similar as when my piston blew it failed it bounced really weird and the rpms were really low and went too normal and back. right now Im waiting for nissan to change my engine.
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FollowupID: 405858

Reply By: Outbacktourer - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 17:15

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 17:15
Good to see we are developing such a good knowledge database for the 3.0L here, great stuff.

FWIW mine came on because the Fuel Filter Lift Pump had developed a pinhole in the diaphram pump and was sucking air. Went into limp mode, would reset briefly when turned off etc. Dealer replaced under warranty, said not common but not unknown.

I'd drain or change the filter before I did anything else.
AnswerID: 152090

Reply By: paulmac2711 - Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 20:07

Tuesday, Jan 31, 2006 at 20:07
Hi had the same fault on my 2000 model. It was the mass air flow sensor, which is what causes the tubo from what I can work out to not come on boost until about 2500 RPM (ie:not much power till 2500RPM )and then possibly the cause for the over boost problem that causes the pressure hoses to blow off. the extra boost is what I consider the cause for the intercooler on mine to have developed a leak ( If you have any oil anywhere on or around the intercooler It would be a reasonable assumption that it is leaking). It cost approx $300 from nissan to have them fit a new air flow sensor (if they plug in the computer that diagnoses all it can provide the opperator the output voltge levels from the air flow sensor and provide you with the answer as to wether it is working within is set tollerances) If you have a finer filter or any of the other types of oil impregnated filters,they cause the mass air flow meter to fail, throw them away and get the old trusty paper filter. An intercooler retails for $1200 (If you know someone inthe trade you should be able to get that figure down to around $800) Good luck mine is going better than I could ever have hoped for. To the next so called genious who owns a toyota and would like to tell me that what I have experienced is not correct thanks for the effort.
AnswerID: 152113

Reply By: RosscoH - Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 16:28

Wednesday, Feb 01, 2006 at 16:28
Hi Gio,
Got a 2000 model 3ltr, had the light come on recently, Read the owners manual and the first thing it tells you is check fuel filter. On the bottom of the filter is a drain bung (prick of a thing to get to) undo it a few turns and prime with the hand pump, most likley just moisture in the Fuel. No matter what you do you will always get moisture in diesel this is why almost all diesel filters have a water trap on them. Because diesel systems work on a return line to the tank the fuel that goes back to the tank is warm, therefore creates condensation in the tank hence the moisture in the filter.I deliver diesel for a living, have always had diesel 4wds and change the filters every 10000kms do not understand why manufacturers and dealers let them go longer, 30 & 40000klm intervals is just stupidity and asking for TROUBLE. Anyway draining the filter fixed my problem and added A dose of CHEMTECH diesel fuel conditioner as it is the only one that mentiones moisture dissapation. So check your filter, might be an easy fix.

cheers RosscoH
AnswerID: 152303

Reply By: Gio - Saturday, Feb 04, 2006 at 08:17

Saturday, Feb 04, 2006 at 08:17
G'day guys (& gals) and thanks four all your resposes.
Heres what the problem was/is with mine.

The intercooler was found to be leaking. This was sent out to be repaired and cost me $230.00 inc labour. When the repaired intercooler was fitted to the vehicle it found the the air flow sensor was now no good and I was told a new one needed to be fitted around $214.00 for the sensor only.

This is as one of the previous replies says that the two go hand in hand and when the air flow sensor fails the boost is too high leading to blown hoses and cracked intercoolers,

I didn't have them fit the air flow sensor because I thought the cost was high and I know a couple of people that may be able to assist with a better price (i.e. trade).

When I do this I will also change the fuel filter and report back. Thanks again for all you assistance!

Gio.
AnswerID: 152872

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