electric over hydraulic actuators

Collyn, I think you've stumped us all mate!

Here we have, the epitome of our own Dr. Karl on EO, asking for our help. Your question may well go down in EO history, as never being answered, sort of like a Buddhist koan.

I am guessing the answer, if there is one, would be around say..... 42

I ran it thru the Babel Translator, and still couldn't understand the ramifications. Oh, that's the internet Babel, not the one you put in your ear.....

Yours in awe....

Wolfie

P.S. Is the Dexter the one we saw on Perfect Match?

Don't worry 'bout me... just takin' da plss.....

Probably not what you wanted, but would it not be cheaper, more accessable re-parts, to convert to drum brakes then run the common electrical braking system that 90% of the rest of vans have??

Collyn
Not the answer you are looking for, but I overcame the same problem by using the brake control as a current proportional to braking effort to drive a modified abs pump, the pump was running in a stalled mode but the current is low, so is not enough to burn out the armature. Eric.

Collyn,

Your topic is complex. We looked into similar issues when purchasing a new boat trailer for a 2.5 tonne all-up boat rig which required breakaway brakes. Looked at the Titan - spoke to the guys at Cleveland who manufacture them. Had mixed feelings about the longevity. In the end, we chose a trailer that had a Sensor brake system - sold by Alko. The electro-hydraulic unit is really quite smart but requires a special in-car processor unit. We went down that path and outfitted 3 cars with the unit @ around the $500 each. The car unit is smart and senses whether you have a Sensor brake system on the trailer or a normal electric brake system ( my caravan) and sets it programme accordingly. the sensor unit uses an 12 pin flat connector (two rows) but is interconnected to my normal 7 pin round for when other trailers are attached. The unit uses a pressure sensitive pad on the brake pedal - works brilliantly and is far more precise and linear in action than any Tokensha unit I have ever experienced.

In operation, the trailer unit only takes about 10-20 seconds to pump up to full pressure from a cold start. If you disconnect the car, the unit locks on the brakes using the available pressure in the reservoir.

Hope this helps however, it might be a bit tangential if you are absolutely set on using the prodigy as your controller. Good luck

Anoldbuddy.

Keep us informed Collyn as I've just about "had" electric drums and am seriously considering upgrading to disks. The brake controller is one area I have concerns about.
I'm even toying with making my own hydraulic pump..... but that project has a looong way to go.
Cheers

Thank you for suggestions so far.

Before getting into this I was aware of the possible problems (due mainly to lack on an interface standard) - and a substantial part of the reason for going ahead was to establish what they were - and how they can be resolved.

There are several ways that I know for sure will work (using a different type of controller): the Sensa system is known to work well; and I can also do it using the system that Kimberley Kamper use. But I would prefer to use the Tekosha interface if possible - simply because there's a lot more of them around.

Why disk brakes? Much the same reason I prefer radial tyres over cross-plies for general use. It's 2006!
Collyn Rivers