80 Series Radiator

Submitted: Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 18:53
ThreadID: 30457 Views:5814 Replies:4 FollowUps:3
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Hi All,
We found a puddle of green water under our 80 series at the front. Broken radiator is the culprit but that is not the reason for this post.
To remove the radiator you have to remove the parking lights to remove the headlight sorround to remove the headlight assembly to remove the main grill to remove the a/c condensor top mounting to remove the top radiator mounting bolts which have the nut at the front and all this done working around the bull bar, driving lights and the high mount winch.
So I thought there must be a way of mounting the bolts the other way around so the nut is accessable from the engine side of the radiator. Answer is to remove the metal sleeve, from the original bolt, that goes inside the rubber bushes. Buy 2 X 8mm hex bolts 40 mm long + nuts ($2) and put them through the holes in the radiator support panel from the front. Then put a nut on from the back and lock firmly. Cut the thickness of the nut off the metal sleeve that you took of the old bolt.
You can them refit the radiator from the engine side only saving all the work of removing heaps of stuff at the front.
I will bet the engineer who designed this mounting never had to actually remove and refit a radiator himself. I think it is worth making the mod even before necessary to make it easier when it has to be done somewhere out on the track. After all Murphy travels with all of us. You don't need to remove the radiator to make the change.
Hope this can help someone.
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Reply By: 120scruiser - Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 19:24

Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 19:24
Gday Ian
You don't have to remove all that hardware.
If you just take the bonnet lock down latch and cable off and then remove the centre piece of the radiator support panel, you can get to the top mounting bolts. It reduces the time to remove the radiator by a couple of hours.
I found this out after I did my first one and said a heap of profanities that you might be using now.

Sorry to be the bearer of good news
120scruiser
AnswerID: 153180

Follow Up By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 20:43

Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 20:43
Thanks for the idea. I had a look and it certainly is possible and a lot less work.
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FollowupID: 407109

Reply By: Steve - Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 22:02

Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 22:02
Wondering how come you have green water ...isnt it Pink in Toyota 80 series ? At least it is in mine and has been since new..
AnswerID: 153218

Follow Up By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 22:53

Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 22:53
Hi Steve,
Is a bit pinky / green. It will be all green when Ihave finished with it.
Ian
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FollowupID: 407147

Follow Up By: Billowaggi - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 00:15

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 00:15
Hi Ian, I would recomend using the genuine Toyota coolant [Pink] it is one of the best coolants you can buy and guaranteed quality.
Regards Ken.
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FollowupID: 407167

Reply By: Chugga - Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 23:59

Sunday, Feb 05, 2006 at 23:59
Ian
Here's another one for you (if you have a 1HZ engine). All of the rocker cover bolts are just that - bolts, except for one! It is a stud and nut and the stud is too long to allow for the easy removal of the rocker cover. So when you do get the cover off to do your valve adjustments, remove the stud and replace it with a bolt. I'm very curious as to why Toyota have this stud where it is.
Derek
AnswerID: 153243

Reply By: Stan - Friday, Feb 10, 2006 at 17:03

Friday, Feb 10, 2006 at 17:03
I have been using the genuine Toyota Red / Pink coolant as it was explained to me that the 80 series had a problem with radiator corrosion caused by current flow through the radiator. Supposedly the Red coolant reduces / stops the current flow, thus reducing the likelyhood of corrosion. It sounds a bit strange, but mine has done 160 000 klms on its original radiator using the Red / Pink coolant.
AnswerID: 154336

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