80 Series ,What to look for?

Submitted: Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 20:26
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G'Day All,
Great forum...first post ...long time reader...
Taking 6 months off and travelling up the centre and around the WA coast then back across to Melb.Got my eyes on a 92 cruiser turbo diesel (250klms),is there any things that are a sure sign not to buy it!(Im a plumber not a mechanic).
Cheers
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Reply By: bumpkins - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 20:53

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 20:53
Hi there. They are known for chewing out the idler shaft in the transfer case.
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Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 17:34

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 17:34
Sorry, i have to pipe up...that was the earlier 1980-1990 cruisers, this 92 wont give you any problems there...the motor and the front c/v shafts will
Andrew
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Reply By: Member - Jack - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:14

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:14
Hi steve:

I have a 1991 (non-turbo) Cruiser and it is terrific. I bought it at 160,000km and have jjust clocked up 290,000km. Still going strong. It gets regualar services (every 5000km).

You may need to just check about big end bearings, as there were a few issues with the turbo'd diesels. Not a big job, and piece of mind.

For mine .. headights on the '91 model are a sealed beam affair and very ordinary, but I stuck some driving lights on so it is not a real issue any more.

Brakes on my little 15" rims are not as good as later models, so I just leave extra room.

Gearbox (manual) is a bit notchy, but I have just (last week) had a new Daikin clutch fitted and quite a lot of that seems to have gone. (The clutch they took out was the original unit).

They are a pretty solid unit, and mine has taken everything I have dished out to it in its stride. Many (even on this forum) have said that, having traded their 80 series in on later models, they wished they had their 80 series back again.

Another benefit is that I have managed to kit mine up largely from eBay. Things like steel bullbar, overhead console, OME spring/shockies kit, rear wheel carrier, roof rack, so spares is not problem.

It looks like a truck, it feels like a truck, and it drives like a truck. I love mine !!!

Hope you are happy with yours.

Cheers
jack
The hurrieder I go, the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll-Alice In Wonderland)

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Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 17:38

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 17:38
Jack
If you still have the std headlights, and want better....replace the centre high beams with sealed clear glass jobbies as on ebay....and run them through a relay.....makes the outside highs brighter from 2 less globes on the loom, and low will be as per normal, unless you replace the outside lights aswell.....but reality speaking, its better to install Cibie Super oscars than upgrade std lights.
Castrol VMX-M is what you should run in the 5 speed......for smoother shifts...
Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Follow Up By: Member - Jack - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 18:56

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 18:56
Thanks Andrew:

I have been wrestling with this problem for way too long (procrastination???) .. then recently thought I might get hold of one of those Pirahna looms and set up some decent high beam lights. Methinks that if I did that loom, I may actually get a bit more bvoltage to the normal lights and they will be brighter. That is my theory for this week.

My main objection is when one of the lights blow .. and I can't buy a sealed beam "on the spot". Be nice just to be able to replace a globe.

I have taken the VMX-M on board however and will change the oil before I head off west at the end of the month.

Appreciate your help and advice. Thanks for that.

Jack
The hurrieder I go, the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll-Alice In Wonderland)

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Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 08:03

Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 08:03
Just two things
if u do water crossings with globed lights, you will see a down side to sealed beams....high tide marks....
And be aware that the orientation of the wires into the light fitting is different sealed to halogen....if u put a halogen in the outside, you need to swap the wires around in each plug/ holder to suit....
Not hard to do, but hard to work out where they go.
Andrew
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Follow Up By: Member - Jack - Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 15:04

Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 15:04
Hi Andrew:

Did you mean that sealed beams won't allow water in (high tide marks)?

My 80 Series (not sure if they are all the same) has low beam on the outside and high beam on the inside. None of my lights have a combined low/high capability. Mine is a 1991 model which, as I continue to find out, varies a lot with some later model 80 series. Wheels and brakes for starters.

But I take on board your thoughts on the lights ... might just stick with the driving lights. Seems easier that way : )

Appreciate your input.

Jack
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Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 16:58

Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 16:58
Jack, your outers are both low and high....the early 80's in std, and gxl had sealed beams, there is no water that can get in them....unless they are broken.....you will find your middle lights are 70 watts each, so take alot of power from the outers ....when relaying them, they become bright, and the outers become brighter (without having to share the load) on high aswell....but low beam still is not too good, hence the Halogen upgrade and maybe a set of 90/100 globes for them.
But as said b4, if u do that, the plugs need swapping round on the connections.
Check out the tech pages of www.lcool.org for a wiring diagram you can make yourself.
Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Follow Up By: Member - Jack - Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 21:56

Wednesday, Feb 08, 2006 at 21:56
Hi Andrew:

Yep, found the lcool diagram. Many thanks.
I have renewed enthusiasm for my headlights now. Appreciate your time and effort on this. Take care.

Jack
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Reply By: Footloose - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:15

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:15
Have it inspected by a reputable diesel mech. Much cheaper than even the cheapest repair , or worse still being stuck in a remote location.
AnswerID: 153451

Reply By: dieselup - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:19

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:19
You could probably make a list of things to look for as long as your arm
Some early 90s TDs had some issues with engine life , mainly bottom end problems I think
If you like the look of it take it to a good 4WD workshop in your area and get it checked over
Another bit of insurance is to take oil samples from the engine and gear box and have it analysed,Caterpillar or Komatsu earthmoving dealers run good test labs
good luck with it!
AnswerID: 153456

Reply By: Member - Steve O (VIC) - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:30

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:30
Thanks for all the advice. Current owner has had the big end bearings done 70,000km ago and suggested that I get them looked at after our trip(should i get them done before?). Also noticed that he had drained the filter because i notice it on the inside of the left wheel arch.(i mentioned it and his reply was had bad batch of diesel?)
Cheers
AnswerID: 153461

Follow Up By: Member - Steve O (VIC) - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:35

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:35
Darn!!! new at this, posted reply instead of follow up.
Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - Jack - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 22:38

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 22:38
If he has had the bearings done at 70,000km he is across the problem.

I think it is about $500 to have the job done (saw that price quoted elsewhere here on a similar posting). I'd probably go ahead and get it done if it was me .. I prefer to head potential trouble off a the pass ... but having had them done is reassuring. Be nice if he can produce a receipt to that effect, just to be sure.

Jack
The hurrieder I go, the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll-Alice In Wonderland)

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Reply By: Simon C - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 22:43

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 22:43
Another issue on some of the earlier engines was the harmonic balancer could come loose and damage the key way on the crankshaft. Not sure of the specifics, but some one on the forum most likely would know the finer details. Wokmate had one go, and was a new crankshaft. $7-$9K later !!!!!!!!!. Also CV joints, and splines in this area could be a problem if not service correctly.
AnswerID: 153493

Reply By: 120scruiser - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 09:16

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 09:16
Gday Steve O
Take it for a run and do some U turns on full lock both ways. If you here any clicking noises either way you will need new CV joints. Not a drama as they are only about $160.00 each brand new from Repco.
Ensure the timing belt and tensioner has been done. If you can't confirm it put a new one on because when they let go, kaboom in the head department.
Is it after 8/92 or prior. After 8/92 they came with bigger wheels and bigger brakes.
Handbrkes are crap and have to be constantly adjusted properly at the rear wheels.
Have a look at this site.
www.lcool.org
Clutch chatter or rattle is common. You can put a new clutch in and it will be ok for awhile but will return. You can check it by having it idle in neutral and listen for clunking coming from the front of the gearbox. You can also idle along in 1st gear and listen for a distinctive rattle. If you here it the dampers in the clutch a shot. Not a big promlem but could be good for bartering.
Ensure it has a good service record and you probably can't go wrong but take advice from one other contributor and get it proffessionally inspected. It could save you lots of dollars.
Cheers
120scruiser
AnswerID: 153552

Reply By: Turbo Diesel - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 09:53

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 09:53
Steve

The 80 series is probably the most commonly modified tourer in the toyota range, heaps of spare parts and lots of add ons available. I had a 93 80 series great truck loved it heaps. Personally i would really look around and search heaps, i have seen the odd 80 series gxl turbo around with about 200,000 on the clock in mint condition for around 30,000 grand. I guess my point is that if you can afford it buy your cruiser and do it up, it wont let you down. Do the research on the truck and make it your personal goal to fix things up. You can buy a 96 model turbo only a few made but a little better than the 93, brakes etc. If you could buy the turbo for around 20 grand and spend 10 grand on it you would be laughing, you would also have a truck that you could own for the next 10 - 15 years and tour australia, personally if i could find a good turbo 80 series i would buy it over a 100 series. Talk to some engineering places and diesel mechancis for advice. Good luck!
AnswerID: 153560

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