Kill switches
Submitted: Wednesday, Jan 22, 2003 at 22:16
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Andrew
Looking at installing a kill switch on my diesel gq. My old mate in petrol head days, used to put the switch in line with the fuel pump. Is this the best circuit for a diesel? If not what circuits are most suitable? Thanks Andrew.
Reply By: Kev. - Wednesday, Jan 22, 2003 at 23:19
Wednesday, Jan 22, 2003 at 23:19
Andrew, I had the same trouble coming from petrol motors to diesel.
the only thing i could find was the wiring to the fuel pump on the engine.
On my toyota 4.2L there is a plug that leads to the pump and what i did was to unplug it then with the ignition on use a multimeter and
check what pin in the plug had 12volts.
Then cut the wire to that pin half way along the loom then connect the two plugs and turn over the engine, if it dosn't start you have the right wire. Just join the two wires to a switch under the dash and your away.
Sounds like you know how to instal it anyway once you find the circuit but this info may be useful to others.
I have always used killswitches as it is peace of mind.
(You can also shift the 4wd lever to neutral)
Kev.
AnswerID:
11718
Reply By: ExplorOz Team - David - Thursday, Jan 23, 2003 at 02:57
Thursday, Jan 23, 2003 at 02:57
I always used to use kill switches in my vehicles until I came to WA where it is mandatory to have imobilisers installed. I will never bother with a kill switch and will now always go with the imobiliser system. They work very very
well. They of course do cost more than a couple of dollars but my vehicle is worth every cent of the few hundred dollars. It costs me more to fill it with fuel than a good quality imobiliser system that not only kills the iginition but provides access to the central locking to lock/unlock the vehicle etc etc.
If you have the bucks then go for the imobiliser system.
David
switched on to switch off.....
AnswerID:
11728
Follow Up By: Oziexplorer - Thursday, Jan 23, 2003 at 11:05
Thursday, Jan 23, 2003 at 11:05
The Australian made Cyclops TWO point engine immobiliser are around $80 and probably could quite happily say one of the better units on the market.
FollowupID:
6664
Reply By: Hoffy - Thursday, Jan 23, 2003 at 13:46
Thursday, Jan 23, 2003 at 13:46
Kev
I cut the fuel solenoid wire in the loom down near the pump. soldered suitable size cable to the two ends then used heat shrink tubing over each joint. I then taped each joint and taped the wire onto the loom. This wire was brought up to the area near the main battery and wired to the base of an automotive relay. The relay had a lug on it to alloy attaching to the body. All joints are soldered - I hate crimps. The coil connection is brought to the area under the dash where ignition 12 volts is picked up. I used a double pole double throw switch to give the kill switch "on" indication.
I put the cable in the engine bay in a manner which is difficult to distinguish it from the original factory wiring.
This has worked
well for 8 years now. Should the relay fail in the bush it is a simple matter of shorting out the relay contacts out.
Keith
AnswerID:
11752
Reply By: Kev. - Thursday, Jan 23, 2003 at 17:33
Thursday, Jan 23, 2003 at 17:33
Hoffy
Fair enough, every one does thing differently i suppose.
Just a bit puzzled as relays are usually used to switch high current loads like air comp's and spot lights ect without running heavy wire back in the cab. Not needed in this case as there is minimal voltage drop but im only nit picking.
Good to see people can do these simple tasks themselves as i know some people who cant do anything but change a fuse.
Kev.
AnswerID:
11760
Follow Up By: Hoffy - Friday, Jan 24, 2003 at 11:49
Friday, Jan 24, 2003 at 11:49
Kev
I guess I like to do the'belt and braces" trick. Being an electronics tech I felt the relay was the cleanest way to go, in my opinion. Toyota seem to use relays for areas where the current is relatively low. As they say there is many ways to skin a cat.
Cheers
Keith
FollowupID:
6733