thoughts on Haze N70 VRLA Gel battery

Submitted: Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 16:55
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Greetings all. During my investigations into deep cycle batteries to power a Waeco CF 50, I spoke to a guy at a Battery World store in Melbourne. He pointed out that the cost of a second battery (approx $110 for 40a/h deep cycle), battery tray (approx $100), and dual battery controller (say $150), would have me poorer to the tune of $360, not to mention the costs of installation. This solution would give me 24 - 30 hours running the fridge on two bars (about 4 degrees C). He suggested not going below 20% of battery capacity. Against this, he offered the following solution - a Haze N70GEL deep cycle battery at $360, that he claimed would run my fridge for 36 - 48 hours and still start the vehicle (petrol Jackaroo). This battery claims 100 a/h @ C20 (does this mean over 20 hours of discharge?), CCA of 615amps and RC of 157. Anyone with any experience or comments on the N70GEL?
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Reply By: revhead307 - Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 17:24

Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 17:24
Doesnt sound like the best advice ive ever heard.

Sure running a fridge of a single/starter battery is fine for trips while the vehicle is running...and for short periods while stopped...

but i think its unrealistic (read unsafe) to be in the middle of somewhere...running a fridge for that long a period..and expect to start your vehicle again.

I have a 100Ah chinese brand AGM (not gel) as an auxillary.. there are no miracle batteries that can replace the need to keep ur starting battery independant or closely monitored.


AnswerID: 154111

Reply By: Member - AdrianLR (VIC) - Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 20:25

Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 20:25
If all you're doing is replacing your main battery then you could use a Calcium/Calcium or Silver/Calcium sealed low maintenance battery like a Bond Ultimate. These have a good reserve capacity/Ah rating and will take deeper disharges better than a normal battery. Around $130.

If it's under the bonnet you're not worried about gas discharge so why put in a VRLA?

I thought VRLA/gel batteries have different charge requirements to normal lead acid - can someone comment on the suitability of a normal alternator/regulator?

AnswerID: 154142

Reply By: Ken - Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 21:54

Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 21:54
I too would be very doubtful of this advice. Ask them what these figures mean exactly. CCA is cold cranking amps which has little relevance to long term, fairly low current drains such as running a fridge. 36-48 time running the fridge ?? Which is it ?? 48 is 30% more than 36 so can it do 36 or 48 ?
Also it is generally accepted that deep cycle batteries, due to their different internal construction, are not suited to starting applications.
Work out the amp/hours of your Waeco running for even 36 hours at say 5 amps [not sure what they draw but I'd be surprised if much less than 5A]. At say 40% duty cycle [40 % of the 36 hrs on, 60% of 36 hrs off] that is 72 amp/hours. Pretty close to the claimed 100 amp/hours of the battery in perfect condition, fully charged. Not a lot spare ! Will it start your truck after this, who knows, but I doubt it.
Then consider the next charge recharge cycle. If for any reason the battery doesn't get fully charged after the initial discharge you are starting behind the 8 ball.
Over time the battery will deteriorate and never have the claimed 100 amp/hour capacity when new.
I reckon being always being able to start your motor is the most important thing to consider, cold beer is close but unless you can trade it for a tow or a ride it is not the main priority.
By all means buy that battery if you believe it is value for performance but only as a second battery. Too risky to trust having only one.
AnswerID: 154172

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 22:58

Thursday, Feb 09, 2006 at 22:58
I've known a few people who've done this and are happy with the obvious simplicity. There are a few provisos:

#1 That you travel with another vehicle so you won't be stranded by the single battery failing
#2 That your fridge is a modern compressor type with a low power draw.
#3 That your fridge has a low voltage cutout set at a comfortably high voltage or you incorporate one in the circuit.
#4 That you may not consider this option with a diesel which usually needs more cranking power than a petrol vehicle
#5 That you are running the vehicle every day for a couple of hours
#6 That you monitor battery voltage so you know whats going on.

AnswerID: 154197

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