80 series with 1HD-T 200K - what to do?

Submitted: Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 10:51
ThreadID: 30830 Views:7616 Replies:4 FollowUps:9
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Ok, I am just trying to pick up some kind of wisdom from this board. Recently I get truck mention in topic. I like to keep it for long tome (~10 years or so). Do not mind to spend a bit extra money (reasonable, please :-) ) to have this ownership as pleasant as possible. My main question is about engine. It does required some kind of attention – timing belt is obvious, injectors need to be serviced, many people saying that big end bearings could be a problem in this engine and need to be replaced at 100k interval, I believe that turbo does not burst well etc, etc. So what would be my best option? I have two variants:
1) Fully service existing engine (timing belt, injectors, big end bearings, possibly rings, turbo – possibly upgrade it to aftermarket or as least bigger one from 1HD-FT engine, and have fully serviced engine head at the same time.
2) Exchange existing engine with fully reconditioned unit.
What do you believe would be better option? If second path get chosen does it make any cense try to get 1HD-FT instead of my 1HD-F? Is it really *MUCH* better? I really need to make decision quickly, because 200k approaching fast and if I start to service it (i.e. spend money for timing belt etc) it would be very little sense to go for exchange after that.

Any thought greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance
KSV
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Reply By: Drew - Karratha - Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 11:14

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 11:14
Spend your $100 - $150 on changing the timing belt at 200 000km, and then take some time to weigh up what to do. I have a 96 80series with the 1HZ non turbo, with 320 000 on the clock, and am only now considering my options of what to do for another engine (1HZ-FTE ???). I will probably keep thinking about it for another 200 000kms..
AnswerID: 155319

Follow Up By: KSV - Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 12:28

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 12:28
Thanks for replay. I have upgraded to 80 from 1984 60 with 4.2 normally aspirated diesel. I have not done *ANYTHING* to this engine (well, have change injectors at 200k and been doing normal service – i.e. oil+filter+vavle clearance). I got this truck at 180k (and believe it was winded down) and rid of it at 350k. At this stage engine was completely gutless and require quite a bit of flogging to pull me along. It became in such condition for last 50k (2-3 years) and each and every service I have asked myself should I do something serious to this engine or not. And I always postponed any action because it was not worth money to spend. Thus I have gained wisdom – if you like to keep a car and it required some attention it always would be better to do it as soon as possible and therefore get enjoyment from invested money rather then fix it for someone else before sale. So I am going to do something, just need to figure out better path.
Thanks
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Reply By: NUTS! - Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 12:24

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 12:24
Keep it! It should do 500K kms...

Change Timing belt, service injectors, air and fuel filters, then replace exhaust with bigger one (preferably mendral bent 3") so turbo performs better. I believe main bearing problem was only in <93 or <92 models as tojo got a bad batch of bearings, might be an idea to replace anyway as tojo might share the cost of this, i believe they have done for other members.

Make sure you change oil worst case every 10K kms, 5K if you can. You shouldn't need rings, head service or new turbo but if your worried about rings get a compression and leak test. This will keep you running for at least another 200K kms.

If you want more power after this then look at chip and or bigger turbo and or intercooler, you can buy upgrade kits for these motors I'm pretty sure, that include everything you will need to get more power. The newer engine will cost something like $12000 for a rebuilt or new one so dont wast your $$, fixing up your engine will cost less than half this and then you can use the change on other stuff for it like a part time kit that will make better use of the power you have.

Cheers
NUTS!
AnswerID: 155344

Follow Up By: KSV - Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 12:53

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 12:53
Thanks. Is it really 12k mark for change over rebuilt unit? I have not quote by myself yet, but thought it would be definitely under 5k. If it above 10k then you are dead right.
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Follow Up By: NUTS! - Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 13:40

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 13:40
I may or may not have been exagerating....but I'm fairly sure its much closer to the $10K mark than the $5k. See if you can get a quote to supply and install a fully reco'd engine, I'd be interested in hearing exactly how much it would cost too.
NUTS!
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Reply By: Member - DOZER- Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 16:27

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 16:27
At the bare minimum.....
1, change belt and the idler pulley....after 200k it is still good, but whilst there....(it wont need doing again till 400,000)
2, Have the big end bearings changed out.....do this every 100,000kms...use ACL bearings made to suit the 1hz, (thesame bearing) this should cost in the vacinity of $500 to do....make sure the mechanic knows the harmonic balancer needs to be retightened to 540nm......he will need to make up a c spanner and use a 2 meter pipe on the bolt.
If you do this, you ensure the motor wont blow up...if they are wearing, they will be close to gone by now...they have probably been done under recall b4, but my mates hdt bearings come out needing replacing every 100000kms.
3, if the motor has acceptable power and economy, and doesnt blow black smoke, dont touch the pump....but a trick you can do to help things along is to fit a walbro electric priming pump in the fuel system, powered from the on key position, and then you can run a CAV filter (superior filtering with clear water bowl) without loosing power.....you will actually get better low down torque by installing the pusher pump....check out the www.lcool.org web site for details.
Now for optionals....
4, the front c/v joints will be getting worn, have aftermarket ones installed if and when you get oil around the swivel hubs of the front diff....if your cruiser is before 9/92, get the later c/v joints with later drive plates (for sale at the moment on ebay as a set) because this cures alot of the backlash in the driveline.
5, if you want a huge power increase, fit a safari intercooler to the motor, and have the pump and turbo set up to suit. Check out www.aps.com.au for 700nm of torque from your hdt (i)
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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AnswerID: 155376

Follow Up By: Billowaggi - Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 23:53

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 23:53
You do not have to remove the harmonic balancer to replace the big end bearings, sump only. Dont use a piece of pipe if you have to re tighten it , properly calibrated tension wrench is the correct tool.
Regards Ken.
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Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Friday, Feb 17, 2006 at 07:17

Friday, Feb 17, 2006 at 07:17
Hi Ken
The pipe negates the need to buy an expensive wrench that measures 500+ nm....then you need plenty of muscle to get it tight...some simple (hic) math can get you the correct figure over 2m pipe.....
Glad to hear you dont need to drop the balancer....i wasnt thinking properly (main brgs are not not bigends)

So this is even better news.....

Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 16:29

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 16:29
Whats wrong with your motor???
200k is nothing to worry about - should be just run in!
Have the big end bearings been replaced previously?? If not, you should replace them ASAP - only a relatively small cost for peace of mind.
Timing belt was a 100k item on these vehicles.
Injectors: up to you.

Everything else: if its not broken, don't fix it.

Cheers
Phil
AnswerID: 155378

Follow Up By: Kevin1243 - Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 17:39

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 17:39
Is there any way to tell if the big end bearing need replacing. I've just bought a '90 1HD-T 80 series with 275k on it. The engine sounds OK and doesn't blow much smoke.

Kevin
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 22:07

Thursday, Feb 16, 2006 at 22:07
Kevin,

You can check with your Toyota dealer to see if anything comes up on their computer.

If you have no record of them ever being done, you'll need to drop the sump and have them checked/replaced. Usually about $600 and worth ever cent for the peace of mind. To ignore them, you'll run the risk of huge damage.

You can get more info here

Cheers
Phil
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Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Friday, Feb 17, 2006 at 07:22

Friday, Feb 17, 2006 at 07:22
You the man Phil
How do u link those pages???
Later
Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Friday, Feb 17, 2006 at 18:23

Friday, Feb 17, 2006 at 18:23
Hey, waltzing matilda :-))

To post a link, you cut and paste the stuff at the bottom of the followup box into the text. Then replace the "http://domain.com/path" with the link, and replace the "link text" with anything you want to call it.

Cheers
Phil
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