Compressors & Tire Removers

Submitted: Friday, Jan 31, 2003 at 21:28
ThreadID: 3181 Views:1863 Replies:4 FollowUps:8
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I am buying a compressor tomorrow and also some sort of bead breaker and my questions is,,,,,,
What compressor do i need to buy to be able to pop back a tire onto the bead and which bead breakers are friendly / efficient to use.????
Also the compressor will be pumping up 4 tires from 16psi up to 36psi often... 31" x 15".........12volt compressor........

It will be hot conditions 35ish...........
There are just way too many brands out there to choose from...
I need words of experience.........

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Reply By: bob - Friday, Jan 31, 2003 at 22:49

Friday, Jan 31, 2003 at 22:49
Hi voxson, There are 3 types of bead breakers available that I am aware of. Tyre pliers, Tyre jaws and R & R Beadbreakers. All are supposed to be good quality units. I personally use The tyre pliers which I find an excellent product and highly recommend.
Keep in mind you can often break the bead on a tyre by using a high lift jack on it, or by running over the tyre by using your car.
Most quality compressors should easily be able to reset the bead on the tyre. Blue tongues, Big Red and ARB compressors are all good quality,
AnswerID: 12304

Reply By: Truckster - Friday, Jan 31, 2003 at 22:52

Friday, Jan 31, 2003 at 22:52
Go with a quality compressor, if you get ARB, goto a truck wrecker and get an air tank with pressure release valve (~$40) mount it under the chassis, connect the ARB pump to it, and you will have LOTS of air.

To mount beads you need a large rush of air... there are other ways with Aerostart and deadly crap like that, but do it right do it once!
AnswerID: 12305

Follow Up By: Rox - Saturday, Feb 01, 2003 at 18:03

Saturday, Feb 01, 2003 at 18:03
Tell me more Truckster I have an arb and think its a bit slow when filling 6 tyres ( camper) but filling the tank b4 u stop would be quicker. I have thought of a normal 25 lt compressor and a gen set (mine is 1kva) but compressors are about 1.1-1.3 kva. Have seen an air con set up with tank but with no air con in cab. Also seen endless air all up posibly $500.
FollowupID: 7152

Follow Up By: Truckster - Saturday, Feb 01, 2003 at 22:36

Saturday, Feb 01, 2003 at 22:36
yea the tank can be setup so its always full if you like with pressure relief valves....

Endless air is the premium.. but costs Lots,

Dependin on car, the GQ TD42 can run an extra air compressor! So :p

The air compressor way is good but manufacturing the mounts is a job not worth undertaking unless your a genius!
FollowupID: 7159

Reply By: Phil G - Friday, Jan 31, 2003 at 23:05

Friday, Jan 31, 2003 at 23:05
Hi Voxson,

Its not just the compressor. Reseating tubeless tyres is a bit of an art and best practiced in the driveway of your home.

A few things will make it difficult.
1. If you've used tyre levers to fully remove a tyre, the bead is a bit distorted.
2. Tyres that are not wide enough for the rim. For example is is much easier to reseat a 265 tyre on a 7 inch rim than an 8 inch rim.
3. No "whoosh" of air to get it started.

My suggestions:
1. Don't skimp on the compressor. I also live in South Australia and use a Blue Tongue 111 which I like because it pumps the tyres back up quickly and is continuously rated (fan-cooled). For me its a long term investment that moves from one vehicle to the next, so I steer away from the cheapies.
2. Avoid punctures by running lower pressures (like 24psi) as soon as you're off the bitumen, keep your speed down and don't overload.
3. Repair punctures in the first instance by using a tubeless plug kit. Then pay someone to fix it properly as soon as you can. You may need several tubleless plugs to fix small splits etc. They work well and you often don't have to remove the wheel. Saves heaps of stress and frustration!
4. Always carry a spare tube and use it if you are unable to reinflate a tubeless tyre.
5. To get the whoosh of air, I pump my spare up to 80 psi (its max pressure) and use a 3-way connnector between the pump, spare and tyre to be inflated. Can get an even better whoosh if I remove both valves.

With a bit of luck, you'll never be stuck with a tyre you can't reinflate.

Phil G
AnswerID: 12308

Follow Up By: Mikeys - Sunday, Feb 02, 2003 at 12:46

Sunday, Feb 02, 2003 at 12:46
My hot tips for reseating the bead are:
1. Leave the valve core out (as PhilG suggest) when first reinflating and only screw it back in after the bead has popped on both sides. The valve core tends to slow down airflow into the tyre and you want as much air going in as possible.
2. Keep it clean. Even little bits of sand or grit between the bead and rim can stop the two from sealing so if the output of the compressor isn't high, you'll never get it to seal.
3. Lubricate the bead, ideally with a goop of sloppy soap, or just water which can help to form a bit of a seal between the tyre and rim. All you need is to create a seal for a fraction of a second and the pressure will then progressively build until the bead pops back. Just keep your eyes closed when it is about to pop or you'll cop it in the eyes.
4. Look after the bead at all costs when breaking the bead in the first place. Taking nicks or tears out with your bead breaker will make it 10 times harder to reseat, and if you start to hear a tearing sound when breaking the bead, stop or you'll probably bugger the bead.

Oh yeah, and practice in the driveway. Impress the neighbours!

FollowupID: 7183

Follow Up By: Member - Keith - Sunday, Feb 02, 2003 at 19:15

Sunday, Feb 02, 2003 at 19:15
A tip I read about in a 4x4 mag was to use a cargo tiedown ratchet strap aroud the tread to put pressure on the beads. Never tried it, but maybe someone can comment from experience.
FollowupID: 7202

Follow Up By: Phil G - Sunday, Feb 02, 2003 at 21:16

Sunday, Feb 02, 2003 at 21:16

I've used that method in the past with 10R15 tyres (rope + tyre iron version anyway). Tried it more recently on newer tyres like BFG ATKOs and it doesn't seem to work - as soon as you apply tension, part of the tyre will buckle (?softer rubber). The other trick is to carry a 16 inch bike tube and inflate it and use it to wipe out the extra distance between the bead and rim. as the tyre inflates, pull the bike tube out of the way.

FollowupID: 7212

Follow Up By: Voxson - Wednesday, Feb 05, 2003 at 07:58

Wednesday, Feb 05, 2003 at 07:58
Phil.. explain that a little better could you?
FollowupID: 7306

Follow Up By: Mikeys - Wednesday, Feb 05, 2003 at 17:52

Wednesday, Feb 05, 2003 at 17:52
Voxson, perhaps I can explain although I think this is a technique for advanced players. In my student days when I used to work at a service station - yes SERVICE station (we used to pump your petrol, check your oil & wipe your windscreen) and we had a rubber ring of about 15" diameter and about 2" in cross section. If a tubeless tyre was being stubborn in reseating, with the tyre already on the rim we'd also stretch this "donut" onto the rim so it fitted between the flange of the rim (the bit the bead usually abuts ) and the bead/sidewall of the tyre. It was like mounting an inflated 16" bike tube on the rim next to the tyre. The donut fitted snugly around the rim and pressed up against the sidewall of the tyre, and when done properly, formed a seal between the tyre and rim. This also helped push the inner bead onto the inner flange of the rim. Pumping air in first sealed the inner bead and as pressure built up the outer sidewall started to squish the donut onto the flange. The tricky bit was to stop inflation before the donut got so completely squashed between tyre and rim that it couldn't be removed without letting air out of the tyre. However, if you pulled the donut out before the outer bead had seated properly you just broke the seal but at least by that stage you would have had the inner bead seated. It's harder to get both sides of the tyre to seal at the same time, hence the need for the "whoosh" of air so if you sealed only one side that was still a help.
Had to be bloody careful when pulling out the donut to avoid getting the fingers stuck betwen the bead and flange.
The donut technique was useful when trying to reseat narrowish tyres on wide rims because the tyre beads wouldn't naturally span the rim to form a seal.
Hope this explains it.
FollowupID: 7332

Follow Up By: Voxson - Wednesday, Feb 05, 2003 at 22:20

Wednesday, Feb 05, 2003 at 22:20
yep mikey..... got it.. thanks...
FollowupID: 7344

Reply By: voxson - Sunday, Feb 02, 2003 at 21:31

Sunday, Feb 02, 2003 at 21:31
Ok... Thanks for the replies...
I bought an ARB compressor with a little built in tank and a pressure switch which seems to give it a little burst when needed...

Also purchased a pair of tyreplier beadbreakers which work really well on an aftermarket sunnys but not so well on the original nissan sunnys because of the extended beading lip,, but thats life because i still managed to fully remove 2 tyres, refit, rebead and pump up to 38lbs in 2½ hrs.

I thought that was pretty good for my first effort.........

Orig nissan sunnys are heaps easier to rebead than the aftermarket ones...
From my vast experience of 2 tyre changes......

AnswerID: 12410

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