Warn XD9000 free spool lever stiff

Hi Ray,
Had a similar issue with an OX Hydrolic winch where the levers were sticky and it meant the winch was stuck in the locked position. Of course I found this out when I need to use it so it took 3 hours to get out of the mud instead of 20 minutes. I give the levers a spray with RP7 and work them through the full range of motions a few times once every month or so and it has been right as rain since. This was the advice from TJM and it seems to do the trick. Don't know how appropriate this is for your winch but the supplier should know.

Steve

Hi Ray
I would suggest a strip down, the tang on the inner end of the lever is rather small. the stiffness could be corrosion around the lever or corrosion or rust on the sliding clutch inside. Not too hard to do if you are some what handy with a few spanners.
Ray

Hi Ray...
I wouldnt worry about it too much....
It is only trying to mesh between the slots...
Its the same as trying to put a manual car into gear (obviously with the engine off) without using the clutch,,, sometimes it is stiffer to put in than other times,,, just depends on position...
I always pull on the cable a little more then you can put the persuader away..

Mad Dog
Had the same problem with the warn on the work ute, WD40/RP7 & a bit of time working it in & out... now I just do that whenever I think of it to keep it free...
hope this helps

Hi Ray,

It could be as described that the mechanism isn't quite meshing, but after it's been engaged and disengaged once the cogs are lined up and if you don't move anything else it should improve for subsequent activations. It can also mean the gearbox has had water in it and the grease in it has turned into clag - like mine had after i drowned it. Have you done any water crossings lately (since the winch was last serviced)?

There are a number of issues around the 9000 and the way it's installed versus the way it was designed to be installed. The drain holes are conveniently located to hold water in the winch if installed with the feet bolted up to the inside of a traditional Aussie bull bar - they were designed to drain when the winch was bolted with those mounting feet facing down on the top of the bars you see on the Yanks Jeeps and some old 40 series here.

There's a detailed description of servicing & other recommended improvements for electrical reliability in a pdf on my website (link in signature) and grease types required - about the thickness of cream. The information was provided to me by SG Leslie in Heidelberg who service & repair them after no ARB dealer I approached could tell me how to correctly tension the internal brake mechanism. One even told me to use bearing grease in the gearbox - which is great if you don't want to be able to drag cable off in freespool.Is it hard to drag cable off it in freespool too?

Winches really need regular services which most don't do. If you've bought it second hand it may be in dire need of a service.

Dave

I had the same problem, until recently.. With cable release lever jammed.
I undone the side phillps head screw, and the lever just pops out.
Squirted ALOT of rp-7 inside housing, put it back together and within half a dozen pulls of release lever, on off so to speak, it started to free up. Its fine now. I think lack of use or it being submerged in water for a short period of time caused this.

Cheers
p.s My winch is a 9000 lb warn

Its not used enough, mate...lol

My Brawn does the same thing. Just run the drum in and out a few times and fiddle with the lever to get it working again. I think they set themselves into a groove when you are driving and pl;ay up when you want to use them. Some Inox Spray stuff might help.

Cheers

Mad Dog,

To do it properly strip gearbox ,clean and repack, sounds like the sliding hub ring is dry!

Thanks a heap to you all for taking the time. Considering the winch came to me second hand on the vehicle and I don't know the history very well it's probably worthwhile giving it a through service at some stage. When that stage will be I don't know :)