Ammeter...
Submitted: Friday, Apr 07, 2006 at 12:50
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Member - Blue (VIC)
Q for all the 12V guru's out there...
I purchased a 10A DC panel meter(as recommended by a 12yo sales assistant in a major electronics chain) today to measure the draw of my 110L Waeco... So knowing next to nothing about such things, but willing to learn, I embark on my journey of discovery only to be stopped before I even leave the port...
I was of the understanding that the ammeter would go in-line on the positive wire to the fridge... When I opened up my little parcel and looked at the terminals on the back, one is marked "+" and the other "-". So I cut my wires and installed the meter across both wires as indicated, "pop" blow a fuse in the lead... So before i do some real damage, does anyone know how exactly this thing should be installed...???
Reply By: Member - Crazy Dog (QLD) - Friday, Apr 07, 2006 at 17:39
Friday, Apr 07, 2006 at 17:39
For those who like to roll their own I found this on the internet - made by an Aussie chap.
Looks good - I am going to build one for my trailer. The devices from DSE have diagrams that are easy to follow so most people who have some skills would be able to make.
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Needing accurate Amp and Volt readouts is a must with any DC system but unfortunately there are not many displays around that can do this without costing an arm and a leg. I was not interested in the voltage displays with clocks and thermometers as they are both inaccurate and tacky so for the same amount of money I made my own. All up cost was around $37 and little bit of time to assemble.
The setup consists of 2 LCD displays from Dick Smith (part no. Q2220 cost $9.98 ea), a 50A current shunt from Jaycar (part no. QP5412 cost $9.95 ea), a switch, resistors (to setup the displays), wire, terminals, a box and a 9V battery. The shunt is located in the battery compartment and is secured with a dob of silicon to reduce holes in
the tub. The negative leads of all accessories go to one side and the batteries negative lead is connected to the other side. All accessories have their negative lead terminated at the shunt with nothing being grounded to the chassis. The LCD is then connected to the shunt to display Amps. You can then see current going into and out of the batteries (displays a negative sign when current going out). Both readouts are powered by a 9V battery and I put a switch in to turn them on and off as a battery was only lasting a couple of weeks when they were always powered on. I am extremely happy with the setup and can see what current each accessory is drawing and what the chargers are putting in.
Have fun=====
AnswerID:
165617
Follow Up By: Member - Blue (VIC) - Friday, Apr 07, 2006 at 20:01
Friday, Apr 07, 2006 at 20:01
Do you have a diagram, I'd be interested to see just how quickly I could stuff that up...LOL
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