Uprating a Nissan weight

Although the drawbar tongue reads what it says I think you need to check the specs of the actual vehicle to find what it is rated at.

Regards
Sparkiepete

Thanks Sparky/Pete,
Nothing in handbook and only info ID plate is:
GVM 2960.
Don't know relationship between GVM and towing capacity, or if there is one.

Did find this info from Haymen Reese, but not clear guidelines.
http://www.haymanreese.com.au/consumer/advice/index.htm#2

And this but no 2.8 GU
Site Link
Interesting that GU Auto's are substantially less towing mass than manual trans.

Guess it's too late to be finding out when Mr Dibble is weighing things and says "Yer over-----". They don't often have a great sense of humour.

Bruce,

GVM is the total permissible weight for that vehicle without a trailer attached. This is an "all up" figure and includes such thngs as fuel, oil in the sump, any load in the vehicle, cartons of beer, etc

It's the maximum that you can go to WITHOUT a trailer.

GCM is Gross Chassis Mass - which should be somewhere around 5 tonnes for a Patrol. This figure is again an "all up" figure, including a trailer and whatever the trailer has in it or on it.

It is generally regarded that auto gearboxes are not as strong as manual boxes. (Although there are some auto boxes that are real beauties). Hence, a vehicle with an auto box is generally downrated when compared to a manual gearbox. If they are overloaded they slip and eventually "burst".

Bilbo

Bilbo
I think it may have something to do with the size of the brakes, axles, etc.
and as you say gearbox and diff. Power only has to do with the time it takes to tow not the strength of the components

Phone DPI inspectors and ask them they should be able to tell you
Richard

Richard,

I've done SOME checking with Nissan and I've had experience with Nissan Patrols in years gone by. It seems that the brakes, axles, bearings, chassis members, brake boosters, steering components etc on a 2.8 are exactly the same as any other Patrol, 4.2 or 3 .0. The limiting factor appears to be the strength of the gearbox and the size of the engine.

I'm merely asking "Has anyone been down this road before with the people at DPI in W.A.?

Another way of putting it would be "Do I have get every part number and part description from Nissan to prove my case or can I get an engineer to just certify it and then present that to the DPI?"

My motto is "To be forewarned is to be forearmed"

Bilbo

Call an engineer and ask them what you need to do, or go back to your ngine mob and get them to do the runningaround

Crfan

My caravan is well under the current weight limit of the vehicle which is 2850kgs. I'm not in a pickle about this. It isn't a problem. BUT why not have the increased weight limit if it can be obtained?

The question is "How much messing about is this excercise gonna take?" The next question is "Is it worth the effort?"

Bilbo

Thanks Vince. Proves it can be done at least.

Bilbo

goodday bilbo
can you attack the govt site concerning your problems and see if they have an answer
steve
do you find with the 6.5 you save on fuel or are you busy dragging off at the lights still

ahhhhhhhhh My experience would be: There are PITA's and good blokes, test them out on the phone and see if they are rule staters or solution providers and make your decision.

Thanks Bonz.

Scalyback,

I'm trying (desperately) not to drag race at traffic lights - but it does happen.

I wonder what these things redline at?

Bilbo (still "running in")

Whoops,,,,,,,,,

Scalyback,

Kms per litre = 6.01

Litres per 100 kms = 16.63

MPG = 16.99

These figures were over a distance of 380 kms consisting of about 80 kms towing a 2 tonne van and city driving. I used to get the same figures as those above from my former 100 Series TD 'Cruiser when towing a 2.8 tonne van on long, country trips. So I reckon the consumption is slightly worse than the TD Landcruiser. But it's still a "tight" motor and it may improve. It's still better than a big petrol engine though.

Bilbo

JT,

When the conversion is done, Brunswicks will give a "trade in" on the old motor if it's in serviceable condition. I didn't get anything as my engine was stuffed. But they must sell 'em somewhere but I don't actaully know where or how.

My truck goes in for its first service at Brunswicks tommorow - I'll ask.

Bilbo

Thanks Trev,

Now how do PM him? Don't worry, I'll work it out.

Bilbo

Bilbo,

If you like I can send Member Lucy an email and get him to email you. This would obviously mean I need to pass your email address onto a third party so if you want me to do this, drop me an answer here or by email. Otherwise I won't hand out your email address to anyone.

Best Regards Trevor.

Thanks Trev, but I am a member on this site, so I can PM from here.

Bilbo

Forgot to add, my 6.5 took a lot of km's to 'free up'. I think they'll be a long lasting donk.

Here's something to test. Try driving it around the block a few times without any air filter or piping on. Unrestricted just straight into the inlet manifold. I found my 6.5 was being strangled by the standard filter and snorkel setup, and I instantly gained about 25% more 'driveability'. Obviously this is not a premanent option so I bought a quality K&N pod filter for around town / bitumen use and the improvement was spectacular. I think they may use a Donaldson now but it's worth the 2 mins to check it out.

V8,

There's not a lot I would do differently. MAYBE I would go for a higher 3.7 diff ratio as I reckon this would pull that no probs, even towing a 2 tonne van. I'd also recommend that anyone that has it done gives it a good load in REVERSE test to check that the drivers side exhaust isn't hitting the bell housing or body work on reverse torque. Mine is and it's a shocking noise. They're fixing that tomorrow. It seems to be a common complaint. Also give 3rd gear a good workout for jumping out of gear on the overrun. This one does it and again it is a common fault as the body "pushes" against the gear lever if they haven't cut enough out of the surrounding bodywork and rubber seal. They're fixng that as well - otherwise I'l be having a new gearbox! The electric fuel pump that they fit is very noisy and I'd be asking questions about that - "can it be toned down a bit please?" I'll be fxing that myself.

I'd also think about some serious noise supression matting - the proper stuff. It's not ear bending noisy but I've been spoiled by my former TD Landcruiser and, by comparison, that was quiet. But this Chev/Trol is still quieter than my old Ford Maverick ute. The exhaust is the bulk of it, followed by the diesel rattle.

Nothing else really.

Bilbo

PS - Thanks for the air filter tip. Not sure how a K&N would go in the dust in the Goldfields though. Should be OK around town.

Bilbo

Thanks for that Bilbo, much appreciated.

Re: the K&N, I only used mine when driving on the bitumen and then would swap it back over to the snorkle for the serious stuff. Just loosen the hose clamp and slide the rubber pipe off that ali right angle dooickie that sits on top of the inlet manifold and swing it out of the way. K&N filter out of its dust proof bag and clamp onto the 3" pipe along with an old pillow case to stuff up the pipe so dust can't get into the 'clean' side of the pipe. A one minute operation.

Was definately worth the effort on mine, but chances are they've come up with a less restrictive system since 1998.