Question about Oil Filter for 1HZ Motor

Neil, this is quite correct.

What your mate says is more than likely true.It is the same situation with the non-geniune Nissan filters.Most (if not all) non-geniune filters do not have an anti-drain back valve that works, meaning it takes 7-8 seconds to get full oil pressure (instead of 1 or 2 seconds) when left overnight or even for a few hours.Cold starts is where most engine wear takes place, of course.-Steve

Well, I guess I'll take a different view. I got my 1hz at 60k. I took it back because the oil pressure light stayed on for a couple of seconds when first started each morning. It was a genuine Toyota filter. The dealer changed the filter but still did the same thing. They then put a you-beaut gauge on it and said that it was within spec. The Ryco box says they have the anti drain back valve. Still have the light on for a couple of seconds. Valvaline filter leaves the light on for several seconds and one other (expensive brand but I can't remember it - related to heavy transport) was the worst. Took that off the day after I serviced the car. Now over 230k and still going strong.

Interesting subject.
The "anti drain back valve" is in most filters.
After this was discussed a few weeks back I cut several filters open at my workshop.
We remove them from cars and tip them upside down to drain before disposal.
I cut open, toyota, mazda, holden, subaru, ryco, cooper, AC Delco and the one that held the most oil was the elcheapo Fram. All had drain back valves of difference materials. The Toyota one was very soft as opposed to the Fram one.
I examined my oil light on my new Prado with a Toyota Filter at start up and have recently changed to a Fleetguard. Both much-of-a-muchness.
I wrote all the findings down somewhere and if I find where I can post but don't hold your breath.
No point to this just interesting stuff how the cheapo retained the most.
The next from memory was the Cooper. Now also interesting is Cooper is part of Ryco and both are owned by Wesfil. Now Wesfil is a cheaper brand and all filters were different.
Just my two bobs worth
120scruiser

Ever heard a Ford service manager saying that their equivelent of a Z9 oil filter has a valve in it and a Ryco doesn't. Even stranger that they're the same thing but don't share the same case

The other difference is that the filter is a dual stage filter. Its got two sets of filters - one fine, one not so fine. I'll always use genuine filters for fuel and air as well. Not worth the risk.

I buy my Toyota genuine filters in bulk off Ebay - theres a seller there that sells 10 filters for $275 delivered. Thyese are the genuine Japanese made Toyota filters for 1Hz, 1HDT, 1KZ-TE etc. Usually sell a few on to mates.

All I can say that the company I worked for uses many Toyota Diesel vehicles--mainly 78&79 series and have used Ryco filters for years with no problems.WE had one sold at over 600000kms without any major work.I only use Ryco on my troopy(and I have had a few) with no problems.The real answer is REGULAR oil changes with filter.

This all makes me feel good that the 3 vehicles in my family all have the oil filter hanging down so no chance of drain back, instant oil pressure on start up.
Regards Ken.

RA Rodeo 3.0td
TF Rodeo 2.8td
EF Falcon 4.0

Hello Neil,
It's surprisingly easy to tell if the filter you're about to fit has a non return valve or not.
Look at the mating surface of the filter, one big threaded hole and a ring of smaller holes around it. The oil enters the filter via the ring of smaller holes and exits via the big hole. Why? The filter is a cylinder and cylinders always have more external area than internal area, that equals more filter area.
Now, how to tell if the filter has a non return valve. You'll always be able to see right inside the filter through the larger hole with or without the non return valve. If the ring of smaller holes are covered by something resembling rubber then it has a non return valve. If you can see right into the filter through the small holes then it doesn't have a non return valve.

Geoff.

A few extra seconds before oil pressure comes up is no big deal. Yeah, yeah, more damage is done during cold start etc. etc. Dry sump aircraft engines require that oil pressure comes up within 30 seconds. Oil is sticky when its cold and leaves a good film on everything don't worry about a few seconds 'wear' on start up.

I recently (Christmas party) watched some young mechanics (big truck garage) try and kill a couple of cars they had got from the wreckers. First they played crash and bash stock cars then when they would not move anymore they put a brick on the accelerator pedal and rev the *** out the engines till they explode. One car had already lost all it's oil during the crash phase of the exercise. Half drunk young guys thought it was a fantastic party till a neighbour rang the fire brigade when they saw heaps of smoke comming from the yard. Boss fireman was not to pleased but finally saw that it was all fun and no danger to anyone. Anyway, even with no oil the engines ran on full throttle for over five minutes (probably close to ten) before giving up. These were clapped out 150,000 - 200,000 k's engines.