Help with solar panel regulator (BP) 10amp

Well Voxson, your description is a bit confusing but nothing should get hot so its likely you got it wrong.
To connect DC things in parallel (solar panels, batteries, etc.):
you connect the + of EACH item together and the - of EACH item. So it ends up just like a single item connection wise, one + and one - terminal. Parallel connection gives you the same voltage as a single solar panel but twice the amperage ( if the panels get the same light).
To connect this to the regulator, just run the + from the combined panels to the +input of the regulator. The + ouput (load) of the regulator goes to the + of the battery.
The - of the panels goes to the - of the battery and the - (or common) of the regulator, peferably in that sequence.
You connect your fridge to the battery, not anywhere else!

The 'load' of a solar panel is usually a battery, keep that in mind.

+ means positive
- means negative

Klaus

Heat is often caused by loose connections, check all your plugs and sockets have tight cable screws / clamps.

What size cables are you using?

What is the length of cable run from the battery to the fridge plug?

What current does the fridge unit draw?

Voxson, if you are still in Adelaide then that makes me understand why you are not here (last night)..............?

Hi Vox,

You must join the panels in parallel and not series to keep it a 12v system.

Your heat problem will be loose / poor connections. Best to use Anderson plugs for fridges and panels.

Regards Derek

Pos terminal from panel 1 goes to pos terminal on panel 2 ,,
Neg terminal from panel 1 goes to neg terminal on panel 2,,, that gives you in effect 1 80watt panel ,,
Pos terminal from panel 2 goes to Pos terminal of Solar imput on regulator,
Neg terminal from panel 2 goes to Neg terminal on Solar imput on regulator,,
Pos terminal on regulator marked battery goes to battery ,,
Neg terminal on regulator marked battery goes to battery ,,,
Pos from battery goes to Pos on fridge plug ,,
Neg from battery goes to Neg on fridge plug ,, easy as ,,,

if regulator has power in and power out recording capabillity aka "steca" regulator instead of fridge pos and neg from battery , fridge pos and neg to coresponding 3rd terminals on regulator marked by "light" icon..

Well Voxon the only other reason that I could sugest why the plug can gets so hot is too thin a gauge wire ,,

What's the current rating printed or stamped on the plug and socket?

Geoff.

All electrical plugs work by applying enough pressure between two bits of metal to keep the contact resistance low enough to prevent overheating.

A Cigarette Lighter plug can ONLY maintain pressure on the centre contact if it is held in firmly - this will only happen if you have plugs and sockets that are of a "good" design with collar and spring.

Here is photo that shows "good" and "bad" Cigarette Lighter plugs and sockets.
Site Link

Mike

Thanks Mike (above) for your reply...
I went to Motor Traders to specially buy a good plug because i knew it was critical for good contacts on every electrical join....The counter guy told me to buy Hella so i did...
The last thing on my mind was a crappy plug,,,,,, so i go and post all the stuff above,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
and then lo and behold.......................... a crappy plug was the problem..
I had a spare Waeco plug and put it in place of the Hella and it runs almost cold at that connection now...

**************SHEESH*****************

I bought them on Friday and from a place on Prospect Rd at Prospect.
Havent quite figured out the final way of utilizing them on our trip but i will have it worked out by this coming weekend.
I want to keep them mounted on the roof at all times so i can use them whilst we are away from cars during the day.
3.6amps is what they are giving back to the system.