Tyre pressure for split rims

Thanks for the info Chump. 2L/100km sounds good. I currently get 11L/100km 9 would be great. Can I ask what tyres you are running?

Steve

Sounds like the same tyres that what are on our splits. I have yet to put on the splits. The wife did most of the negotiating in the purchase of the vehicle (she tells me I am too eager!) and she wangled 6 split rims and tyres in the purchase price. She amazes me sometimes. We are going away over the June weekend as a shake down run prior to the Canning latter in the year. It's good to hear from someone who runs the tyres and is happy with them. The splits look a little bigger in diameter than the alloys that are on now. I was hoping this would increase the gearing a little. The 75 Series gearing is good in fourth but 1st is very low (top speed 16kph if I remember correctly.)

Steve

Hi Rambler,
Thanks for the info. I can see that the pressures are generally higher. I have good tyre levers so that part is covered. I'll keep in mind the Hancooks. I tend to change ours over when we do a big trip unless they are quiet new. The only time I didn't we pulled into the Pink roadhouse at Oonadatta with both rear tyres going down! Lesson learnt.

Steve

"We get 11km/100L at around 90 to 100kph"

I think you mean we use 11ltr/100km, using 100L for every 11km doesn't sound good to me!!

Geoff.

Hi Hughesy,
What pressues do you run on dirt/gravel roads? Same as highway pressure? I see that several replies talk about tube quality. I have a few spares that are Dunlop. Is there any prefered manufacturer? Sorry about the questions, but while I have done plenty of 4 wheel driving I have never had splits before and would prefer to find out things before going bush.

Steev

If I was going to be doing hundreds of km's on high speed (90kmh) dirt and was loaded up I'd typically go down to about 35psi. As I've stated any lower and the side effects of tyre heat build up, outway any possible advantage of puncture resistance.

As for tubes stay away from the korean made / no name brand tubes. Only get quality name brands such as michelin or dunlop etc. When I removed the old tyres and tubes from my 100 series (which I've only just recently bought) I found that all of the tubes were cheapies and you could see where the rust flakes had rubbed numerous indents (as close to holes as you could get) into the tubes in one area of the tube. This being the bottom during fitting, where all the cr&p had settled.

I carry a tube repair kit which I bought off e-bay for about $30. It takes 5 minutes to fix a tube once the hole is found. And there is plenty of patches in the kit. Practice before you go.

If you start the trip with new quality tubes and clean fitting then you shouldn't have any more dramas than someone running tubeless.

Also until about 9 months ago I used to use a jack or the vehicle to break the bead on a tyre. Believe me - invest $175 and buy a beadbreaker. It is tonnes easy and more efficient and I'm kicking myself for not buying one years ago. Good luck.

Hi Geoff,
I was wondering about the hoop flying off on reinflation. I thought it was perhaps a tall story but then I saw a WA government site talking about it. At that point I thought it was probably not a good area for experimentation. I was thinking of putting two ratchet straps around the tyre but putting it face down would be easier. The pressures involved would be huge and I would not want to be in the way of the hoop if it was going somewhere. It looks like I'm in for a bit of a learning experience. It has to be easier than changing the tyre on a steel rim. I did this with with an 11 ply and it just abou killed me.

Steve

Steve, Geoff,

Beleive it, it is no urban myth. When I worked in Moomba we ran split rims on all our 75s, we always inflated them in the cage on face down with a hose extension. We had photos on our safety board of a guys lower leg hanging off from the ring parting.
He had his leg resting on the tyre during inflation. The dangerous thing with pressure is not how high the number is its the volume/area envolved. 1 psi can kill with a large enough volume.

It is usually old rims it happens too but dont take the chance.

We used to only drive on 32 psi and never had many problems except in summer with the extreme heat( 45 plus ) on Hankooks.

Cheers TPM

Just make sure that both parts are clean and especially that they are free of rust scale, and I find that it is best to put a lubricant on the tyre beads so that they seat correctly at a lower pressure.
Also just put a few psi in the tyre first, then tap firmly around the split rim portion with a 2lb hammer (keeping the split ring facing away from you) to help it seat in its groove.
I have never had any problems using this method.
HTH.

Peter.

Thanks Steve. I have Dunlop spares at present but will remember this for the next set.

Steve