Rear Wheel Carrier or Lift

Submitted: Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 10:25
ThreadID: 34813 Views:1943 Replies:8 FollowUps:7
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Hi,
I have a LC100 and was wondering what is more practical for the spare, a rear wheel carrier or a body lift or a suspension lift?
Just trying to workout pro's and con's. I have just been using my spare as a sand anchor dragging it along when leaving the beach so I think I need to try to move it out of the way some how. Thankfully I have not been caught on it after going over a bit of a drop off but I think it could only be a matter of time. Will a lift get it high enough out of the way?
Thanks in advance
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Reply By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 10:45

Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 10:45
Craig, I don't have an LC but reckon you will end up with both if you are going to get serious about a 4by unless you get a 100mm lift which needs engineer certification to be legal.
AnswerID: 177924

Follow Up By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 19:35

Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 19:35
I have an 80 series with 267/75 X16 on 7" rims on the road and a 235/85 X 16 as a spare. They have the same rolling diameter but the spare does not hang down like dogs b*lls. I also have a 70 mm lift and Polyairs not to carry the extra weight but to maintain the height when loaded. I don't leave divots in the tracks with this set up. Some will rightly say the tyres on the axle should be the same size but with BFG A/T's you rarely have to change a tyre anyway.
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Reply By: Footloose - Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 10:50

Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 10:50
How many times do you need the spare ? Not a silly question, depends on where you take it I guess. If its once in 5 years, put it on a roofrack. If its once every two months, get the carrier. Neither are convenient, but neither is the worst feature Toyota ever made.
Just remember that your spare also has another function...to protect your rear fuel tank from damage.
AnswerID: 177926

Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 11:09

Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 11:09
Footy trust you to think of fuel tank protection.

That underbopdy spare wheel is really the dumbest thing both Toyota and Nissan ever came up with. I ripped the whole thing out of the MQ taking a little used back road into Boggy Hole, some years back. It went on to the Roofrack after that.
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Follow Up By: Footloose - Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 11:21

Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 11:21
Willem, came across an 80 series with a holed rear tank on the old Quilpie road once, dunno how he managed it. The guy had the spare on the roofrack.
I've suffered that "feature" for years. Now I have the carrier on the back and a spare under the rear. Hopefully will never need to use the one underneath *Oi ! Mr Murphy, are you listening ? * :))))))
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Reply By: Member - Andy Q (VIC) - Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 11:55

Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 11:55
G'day Craigww2, The problem with spares is that you never know when you'll need them, so there position is only relevent when the need arrises. In years gone by I always carried mine on my roof rack(I mean!, when your younger and more agile you don't mind jumping up and down!). Lately and in my 50th year I decided to go all the way and aquire a rear bar for the Nissan, with both wheel carrier and jerry can holder. A good investment by my reckoning, oh yeah I also have a 50mm lift with OME suspension.
Hope this helps.
andy
AnswerID: 177932

Reply By: Member - Nick (Kununurra) - Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 12:25

Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 12:25
About to go through the same thing as you,Im going for a rear wheel carrier and a 2-3 inch lift.Now I have a 285 hanging under the vehicle it really hangs low.One other thing to remember,if you are bogged up to the axles,its gunna take a fair bit of digging to get at your spare wheel under your vehicle.
AnswerID: 177936

Reply By: Member - Jim (Syd) - Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 17:14

Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 17:14
Hi Craig.

WE have both spares on an ARB carrier. The carrier's design makes operation to get into the back of the car easier than the single one we had previously, (which I still have and would happily get rid of if you only want a single). One of the main reasons to put both at the back was actually to reduce the dynamic force on the front when you are braking and pitch into the odd sand mogul etc. We found this a problem on the Anne Beadell Hwy (you can also get a puncture or two on the ABH!!!). We have OME springs at the rear and OME torsions at the front, with Tough Dog Ralph shockers. Hope this helps.

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AnswerID: 177962

Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 17:28

Sunday, Jun 11, 2006 at 17:28
Hi Jim

I am interested in your comment " to reduce the dynamic force on the front when you are braking and pitch into the odd sand mogul". Were you doing a great speed?

Also you mention punctures along the Anne Beadell. I have also heard that from another source. What is the problem on the AB? Would like to know as we will be along there in 10 days time.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - Jim (Syd) - Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 11:19

Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 11:19
Hi Willem,

No great speed, probably less than 30 kms/hr, but on very corrugated roads shockers get very hot and spongy and are less resistant to any force. When you load a vehicle everything is sitting on the suspension in a static mode nicely balanced etc., until you move then not just the weight but also the height of the weight comes into play particularly when you hit the brakes. The momentum is transferred very rapidly forward onto the front suspension. On the ABH we were using OME Nitrochargers, but they had done about 5000kms of very hard stuff, plus a lot of highway work, so they were getting on. The participants in the "Outback Challenges" will tell you that most shockers will be suspect after about 5000 of very hard stuff, so this time we are giving the bigger ones a go. By putting the second spare on the back we have taken 44 kgs off the roof rack and put it behind the rear axle, which has a doubled effect of removing weight from the front axle.

With respect to the puntures, these old Len Beadell tracks went through a lot of Mulga and so there are heaps of 2-3 inch mulga spikes along the tracks. He used to average 3 puntures a day when he was only covering 15 kms or so at a time. We had five puntures between 9 vehicles so relatively speaking we were way better off. WE had one in as a tyre plug for 2 days until we actually fixed it - did not lose any pressure!

On the ABH the worst corrugations are on the section from Coober Peby to Emu so steady as she goes. Tyre pressures about 25 psi on the front and 35 on the back depending on how you are loaded. This will take some of the shock off the shockers. Speed between 30 to 40, but this varies according to the vehicle. In our group we had a variety of vehicles and different speeds suited different rigs (few arguments with the lead vehicle from the unknowing). Some stretches were best at idle in first gear, but these were few, mainly between Emu and the Dog Fence.

Have fun

Jim
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Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 17:13

Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 17:13
Thanks Jim

I will have to watch my step.....LOL

My OME Nitro's have around 25000 on them and they still seem OK although one has a very slight leak and will probably be u/s by the time the trip is over. I carry spare shocks. I gave them an extra workout a month or so ago in the Simpson. You can read about it at www.kempen.id.au click on 4x4 and then A Hard Trek into the Desert.

I agree with the spare tyre off the roof. Too much weight up there. The last trip resulted in a broken roofrack which has since been repaired.

I tend to run my tyres down at between 15 and 20 on severe corru's and down to 10 on the trailer. I will see what I need when I get to the AB.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - Jim (Syd) - Tuesday, Jun 13, 2006 at 20:47

Tuesday, Jun 13, 2006 at 20:47
Hi Willem

The leak is the problem. It is a sign the seals are going which I am sure you already know. Unlike the Simpson, the ABH corrugations get the shocker temperatures up very high, simply because there are so many of them and that's what softens the rubber seals and eventually one unexpected pitch into a soft patch and the result is an explosive discharge of oil. This then leads to a five minute tea break while you change the shocker. I found on the LC that the 12 volt impact tool was invaluable in undoing the bottom bolt.

Happy travelling.

Jim
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Reply By: Grumpy in WA - Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 11:49

Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 11:49
I think that’s a tough call, I am in need of an upgraded suspension and a rear wheel carrier. Don’t really have the $$ for either.
With an upgraded suspension you get lots of obvious added benefits for your $$$ as well as a slightly lifted truck i.e. 50mm etc. Better Value for money but it’ll only give slightly higher clearance to your spare.
With the rear wheel carrier you have the pain of having to swing away the wheel every time you want to open the back up. For me its only half an issue as I have a standard LC with barn doors.
I drop the spare and put it in the back when going 4x4ing for the day, it can be an expensive exercise otherwise or up on the roof when off on a trip.
My order would be suspension first then rear wheel carrier but the LC won’t fit in the garage with a lift so I am stuck as to what to do. New garage doors are expensive too.
If you go for the full body and suspension lift then I don’t think you will need the rear wheel carrier, I have seen a few with 6 inch lifts and even with big mt’s the diff still hangs below the wheel but then there is the issue highlighted above of needing the spare when you can’t get at it too easily.
AnswerID: 178063

Reply By: cowpat - Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 14:53

Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 14:53
Craig, regardless of what sort of driving you do you won't regret a two inch suspension lift and better shockers. As a bonus that'll keep the spare wheel from hitting most obstacles. I've probably about 70mm lift (2 inch springs, 30mm spacers, polyairs, but generally fully loaded too), and with 305/70R16's the spare wheel hits the ground occasionally but never anything other than cosmetic damage. Possibly the towbar does a good job of limiting the damage done to the tyre.

With the lift I have not had the rear drag in sand, except when going over dunes or through deep whoops too fast, hardly a problem in practise. On technical tracks the towbar seems to hit first, but if you get serious about technical driving over rocks I expect you'll want a rear carrier too, but of course you'll need that suspension lift first.

Good luck, Casper
AnswerID: 178080

Reply By: Crocks - Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 19:01

Monday, Jun 12, 2006 at 19:01
Hi Craigww2,
I have a LC100 2002 petrol and have OME springs and shocks all round. With extra heavy duty springs on back I got 90mm on rear and 55mm on front. Tyres are BFG A/T 285x75x16. Went to Fraser last year towing a Kimberley Kamper and never had a problem. Spare Tyre always sits well above diff loaded with trailer. Spare tyre is a 275, will be changing to a 285 soon.
I hope this helps.
Crocks.
AnswerID: 178115

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