Ok! Correct way to adjust tapered wheel bearings

Thats more or less how I've always done it. Just need to rotate wheel back and forth 6-10 times to make sure all is sitting in place then back off. Rotate again and check for any slop. Regularly check your hub temp after replacing to check that you haven't got them too tight. Have you got a big enough socket to take the nut off and on?? You can do it with a screwdriver but makes it hard to get the preload correct. Good luck.

Axle,
What the mechanic told you is correct. What i have found though is most people, when doing that (tightening first) usually go too tight. Thats not good for the bearings.
The proper way is to do the nut up until your fingers cannot turn it anymore. Then get the shifter or correct size spanner and "nip" it up just a tad. Spin the wheel a few times to "roll out the excess grease" where the rollers need to be sitting. Then back it off just a tad using no force with your hand.
Basically what i mean by that is, when your hand is on the shifter, just use your wrist rather than the strenght of your arm. Its hard to describe in writing.

The idea is to make sure the rollers are bedded correctly on the tapered cone. Personally i always spin the wheel every chance i get just to make sure all is sitting correctly. Its always a good idea to take it fora drive, get things up to working temperature then come back and double check to see if there is any play.

Always best to double check rather than hope its fine.

I am sure others will have diferent ways of doing it but personally i found this to be the most reliable way.

Ange

Similar method to those mentioned but doing the nut up tight and backing off a little, the whole process twice.
NickR

Is there any difference in the amount of play if the axle has brakes?

Tightening till the wheel locks up will usually damage the hard facing on the bearings.
I tighten till firm but can still spin the wheel quite freely, then back off an 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn.
Wheel bearings have never been an issue with me when done this way.
Read once about torqueing them up to around 90 foot pounds then backing them off 1/4 of a turn

If you read the workshop manual most will give the correct procedure.
Tojo wheel bearings are done up to a specified torque with a tension wrench (can't remember what it is) and then spun in both directions a number of times, undo the locknut and retighten to the specified torque(which is a lot less than the first time). I've always done it this way and never had a problem.
It can be used with both new and old bearings.

no one has mentioned if there is supposed to be a small amount of play or not?

my experience has shown that you back off the nut til the smallest amount of play can be noticed.......if none is felt i always noticed the bearings got very warm to hot on a fully loaded trailer......

this method works for me, and I have never had to adjust,.... i always check after 20 mins at highway speed though to confirm all is ok

There should not be any play when 'rocking' the wheel on a jack.

My old, very experienced old school boss taught me years ago how to adjust them.

Tighten the nut firmly to seat the cones while spinning the wheel in both directions. At no time should the wheel be anywhere near locking up.

Now the technical bit........loosen the nut again to finger tightness and then position your crescent (shifter) on the nut in the two o'clock position. Release the crescent allowing the weight of it to further tighten the nut. It will drop to around four o'clock under its own weight.

This is ideal torque. Lock the nut as near as possible to this position.

Job done.

Regards

Neil.

Tighten it up until the thread strips then back it off 1 flat!!!

One of the reasons that trailer/caravan bearings don't last as long as cars, is that they sit for long periods in one position. Ideally the trailer should be put on stands.

Help me! I think I have just lost my "Bearings". It is hard to find my way through all this advice. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! I have been doing them for years and never had one fail. Just gotta remember not to blow a poofoof valve when you do it. It has been a a while since, but I think I remember a split pin/castlated nut or tab washer, some grease, lots of hand packing and seals being involve. But this could have been a flashback/nightmare about the times when I had to work for a living. AHHHHHHHHHH!

As taught many years ago at tech school,,,,,no fancy torque wrentches required.

1. Tighten nut finger tight.
2. Then check top/bottom of wheel for free play (hands in 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position on tyre) and adjust nut tighten until you feel no free play) no smart comments about 4 hands needed do it in sequence,,lol).
3. Back off nut 1 hex (ie 1/8 of turn)
4. Check no free play, if no free play it's adjusted. If there is free play tighten 1 hex at time until there is none and back off one hex.
5. This works on cars,4bys, trucks & trailers (we had 55 ton D9'son em) so is proven. No known failures and seen 1000's done this way.

The key is to find the point where the free play stops ie hands on tyres to check and back off one hex.

I hear some purists say it depends on thread pitch (which is true) but this is a proven method, with slightly overtight preferred to loose with free play.

My 2 bobs worth again.

Barry