Increase engine speed for shower?
Submitted: Saturday, Jun 17, 2006 at 17:39
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David from David and Justine Olsen's 4WD Tag-Along
Have fitted a shower system to the Patrol (ZD30 engine) but note that the water flow through the heater at idel is pretty much nil, and not a lot better at a few extra revs. I can get things to work if I hold the engine reve up to start for a few minutes, otherwise there is an air lock and nothing happens. Is there a way to hold the Nissan patrol revs up while stationary other than my right foot?
I suspect not being drive by wire, but keen to know if anyone has found a soution.
Reply By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Saturday, Jun 17, 2006 at 21:05
Saturday, Jun 17, 2006 at 21:05
David, what type of Heat Exchange did you buy? What you can do is fit the heater hoses in Parallel. The coolant does not have to flow through the heater core as
well as the HEU. Obviously if the flow path is shorter it should travel faster due to less resistance. Basically you fit tee pieces in both heater hoses and turn the heater control knob to cold position so all the coolant flows through the HEU. If you have a look at Grungles site, go to Tech section and then to Showers, you will see my setup on a 4.2 with tee pieces .Click on the pics to enlarge and you will see red arrows pointing to the tees, and no cutting of original hoses. It would be similar to the 3 litre although i am not familiar with the 3 litre engine layout. I believe the 3 litre has an "idle up button", Have you tried this? se how you go. Best regards, Michael.
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Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Saturday, Jun 17, 2006 at 21:15
Saturday, Jun 17, 2006 at 21:15
One thing i meant to ask is what flow through the shower head are you pumping. All you could expect with a diesel engine is about 4 litres per minute and should achieve around 40 degrees. Petrol engines run about 10 degC hotter so the output is hotter. Michael
| Patrol 4.2TDi 2003
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Follow Up By: geocacher (djcache) - Saturday, Jun 17, 2006 at 22:15
Saturday, Jun 17, 2006 at 22:15
Hi Michael.
With a Glind HE and an 11lpm pump on my 2.5ltr T/Diesel Courier I can get a perfectly adequate temperature from summer river water using about 800-1000 RPM and even in some
places have had to use the flow control to drop coolant flow as temp can get too hot. I started with a "Little Ripper" and the 3-4lpm pump based on the assumption that the diesel temp would be a problem, it wasn't and I got an 11lpm pump for the right price and thought I'd try it.
I dare say that with the shower running flat out it's still limiting the flow below 11lpm but it's a fantastic shower compared with the 3lpm pump. If we want to be more economical with water use we use the shower head slide valve to limit flow. Then we have to drop the revs off though as it runs warmer.
In cold high country water 1000-1300RPM will do the trick no problem.
I had to fit an inline tap in the coolant line to the HE as in some circumstances the water was too hot for the kids.
Bore water was one such supply that was a problem - Big Billy
Bore in NW Vic. The inline tap fixed the problem. (The Courier/B-series heater control controls air flow rather than coolant flow through the heater core.)
Dave
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Follow Up By: David from David and Justine Olsen's 4WD Tag-Along - Sunday, Jun 18, 2006 at 03:45
Sunday, Jun 18, 2006 at 03:45
Michael
Heater hoses are in parallel with T just as you described, except that I have fitted a vlave to turn off flow to heater, thus forcing all flow through HX. I did this becasue the flow is too low to go both ways.
David
FollowupID:
435312
Reply By: mattie - Saturday, Jun 17, 2006 at 21:33
Saturday, Jun 17, 2006 at 21:33
David
when we had ours in the rodeo i had a similar prob(with an airlock, as i had it fitted at an angle because room was not in abundance) but after doing some driving the water flow eventually draged the air pocket out. When i fitted it to the nissan i was able to fit it horazontal and had no trouble, i use the heat button(it just revs at about 1200revs) and the water it quite hot, we heat the water by just running the rose in
the tub and then turn the car off to shower once the correct temp is reached, this way u can turn the shower on and off to save water with out it getting boiling hot and scolding when it is restarted(if the car is running).
Mattie
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: David from David and Justine Olsen's 4WD Tag-Along - Sunday, Jun 18, 2006 at 03:37
Sunday, Jun 18, 2006 at 03:37
Mattie,
Yeah I was thinking about the fact that all my testing has been done stationary. I will try driving it around and see if that helps. The heat button sounds like the way to go.
Thanks all for your suggestions
David
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Reply By: Tim HJ61 (WA) - Sunday, Jun 18, 2006 at 22:20
Sunday, Jun 18, 2006 at 22:20
Coming in a bit late on this one as you've solved your problem, but for others:
Mercedes make a coolant pump for the heater on diesel because there isn't enough flow through the heater core to keep the occupants warm on a cold European morning it seems.
They've got 16mm hose connections and I've bought one to instal for my HE for my vege oil conversion. At normal running, including idle I get from 60° to 70°, sometimes a bit higher, out of the heat exchanger. Photos of my instal are at:
Site Link
I've not installed the coolant pump yet, but suspect it wouldn't do the same job as the Davies Craig pump for replacing the main water pump - different use. The DC unit has 20mm connectors, the Mercedes has 16mm. I bought mine off ebay - Item 8066435731
Using them on a shower, you'd leave it turned off until you needed some heat. Like I said, 60° is pretty normal. Saves running at a fast idle, probably not much of an advantage really.... but heck, it's one
solution.
Tim
AnswerID:
179133