CAV filters and 100 series

Submitted: Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 16:07
ThreadID: 37599 Views:5892 Replies:3 FollowUps:6
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I know there has been heaps of debate over whether the CAV filter adapters provide sufficient filtration etc. But has anyone here fitted one in the system prior to the OEM filter?
What parts are needed?
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Reply By: strzelecki - Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 16:36

Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 16:36
I would leave the original in place and as you are saying put the additional cav filter/water trap inline prior to the oem,just make up a suitable mounting bracket and plumb in line with some hose and brass fittings.What I do is change the cav filter twice for every one filter change on the original.The cav filters are only $8-9 from memory.But imo its the visual water trap that does a lot of the work,and you just drain that with a small tap at the bottom of the bowl.One thing I did is fit an electric fuel pump as it makes it so much easier to prime than a hand pump,you may already have one fitted as original.
AnswerID: 193823

Reply By: Peter 2 - Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 18:25

Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 18:25
I ran a CAV before the main filter on a 1HZ troopy for years with no probs, later 75's have a similar size prefilter factory fitted.
The electyric pump isn't a bad idea either just make sure it doesn't add any restriction to fuel flow when turned off.
Peter
1996 Oka Motorhome

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Follow Up By: Member - Robert (WA) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 00:59

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 00:59
What type of fuel pump did you use
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Reply By: Member - 'Lucy' - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 00:56

Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 00:56
Fisho

I have a 1HZ Troopy with an after market turbo.

Found that around 3000rpm it use to 'hit a brick wall' which was finally tracked down to 'cavitation' at the pump being caused by insufficient fuel flow.

It is a 1997 model (last of the 75's) which has the two OEM filter packs which I was informed were really for the OEM factory fitted Turbo, however it was just as easy and cheap to fit them to all 1HZ's of that era.

Anyway I removed the OEM setup and replaced it with the two CAV filter items.
(1) Aglomerator - water/chit seperator and (2) the filter pack.

Both have glass bowls and I only change it every 40,000.

Check the below site and if I have done it correctly you should be able to see some pics of the new installation.

Site Link
AnswerID: 193916

Follow Up By: fisho64 - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 01:26

Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 01:26
thanks Lucy, photos worked good!
I'll go and borrow a filter setup tomorrow and see where and how it can be fitted.
Cheers everyone!
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Follow Up By: StephenF10 - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 09:22

Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 09:22
For info - my 1981 Peugeot diesel car has a CAV filter fitted from new and the recommended replacement interval is 20,000 kms.

Stephen.
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Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 20:07

Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 20:07
As a matter of interest has anyone found a way of fitting a water indicator to a CAV?
My Humvee only has the CAV agglerometer fitted, filter at the top and glass bowl at the bottom, no physical indication if water is present like the standard Toyota setup.
Years ago I was advised by a diesel engineer to plumb the CAV agglerometer in the reverse direction to the arrows on the top casting. If plumbed according to the arrows then the crap is caught by the filter element and only clear fuel is in the bowl, if you plumb it in the reverse direction the crap ends up in the bowl and the filter element lasts much longer.
Peter
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Follow Up By: Member - 'Lucy' - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 22:08

Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 22:08
Peter

Have a look at the site link I posted above and you will see there is TWO items in my CAV setup.

(a) Agglomerator - which is brings the fuel in at the top and then down over a serrated cone which forms it into a very thin layer seperating water and any other solid chit from the fuel.

It the drops off the outer edge of the 'cone with the heavier than fuel (water & solids) chit dropping to the bottom of the glass bowl and the fuel exiting the unit up the centre of same in to item (b)

(b) Fuel filter - fuel comes from agglomerator into top/center of fuel filter unit, down through the filter cartridge into the bottom of the glass bowl and up the centre, pipe and out to the pump.

In both units you get to see the crud in the bowls.

Now as to the water sensor - I have never seen a CAV unit with one.

There may be some other electronic after market gizmo available that would fit into the fuel line pre filter pack that would give you a heads up on the water in the fuel issue. You now have me thinking about this aspect.

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Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 17:31

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 17:31
Yes I looked at yours before I posted, the agglerometer that I have has the diecast top like yours, a 296 filter element and then a glass bowl the same size as the filter with a diecast base with the drain cock.
You can actually replace the bowl with a second filter element if you desire.
But back to the top casting, if you follow the arrows for the connections the fuel goes through the filter and then into the bowl which is arse about as only clean fuel ends up in the bowl and all the crud in the filter.
Plumbing it in the opposite direction on my unit puts the fuel down through the centre into the bowl and then back up through the filter and on to the engine. This allows most of the crud and water to stay in the bowl with the filter picking up the finer stuff.
Funnily enough I have a very old Brass CAV setup which has the arrows in the 'correct' direction.
I tried using a water sedimenter bowl (which has a float switch in it ) from a 40 series cruiser upstream of the CAV but it was too much of a restriction to fuel flow which nobbled the performance.
Peter
1996 Oka Motorhome

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