Wiring replacement headlights
Submitted: Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 08:01
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Member - Pesty (SA)
Hi all, have a curly one for the auto electric experts amoungst us.
Have one of the last 60 series with the twin headlights, and needed to replace a couple so thought this would be a good time to upgrade.
The original lights are sealed beams, and the new ones are semi sealed beams with H4 globes in.
Now I have a pretty good knowledge of the auto electric system and knew that toyota and apparently some other jap car manufactureers have a odd wiring for there headlights.
OK so I thought i would beat this so made a complete new H/L wiring loom into 2 relays , one for high beam and one for low beam, pushed the original system back into car outa the way and presto , it doesnt work properly!
Funny I knew it wouldnt LOL
Activating each one seperatly off a 12v source they work a treat, but they cannot be activated by the existing wiring system !
Seems that they need the lights in the system to complete the circuit.
This is where the problem lays, activating the relays for highbeam and lowbeam, so after racking my brain for far to long, went to see mechanic mate and we played around and poured over the wiring diagram for a while and the whole system works on positives only with a negative only coming off the OE relays.
Now im sure there is a way around this and once known will be simple to fix , and it may mean using a different type of relay or something but it is a weird wring system that is used.
So, does anyone know the trick in getting this to work or able to shed some light on the subject?
Thanks
Cheers Pesty
Reply By: 3F62 - Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 13:48
Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 13:48
Ok here it is...... You need to find the following 3 wires in the Toyota loom @ the rear of the lights.... I used the Left hand side about 12'' back from the light & broke into the loom there....... Red wire with a green stripe & blue bands = low beam negitive. Red wire with yellow stripe = High beam negitive. Red wire with white stripe = Hi & Lo Positive........
If using Hella type relays follow this.....
HIGH beam.....
87 = Light (earthed to "CLEAN" metal)
85 = Red wire yellow stripe.
86 = Red wire white stripe.
30 = +
LOW beam.....
87 = Light (earthed as above)
85 = Red wire green stripe
86 = Red wire white stripe
30 = +
I used a Nargares 100amp relay for the high beams (400watts) & 40 amp hella for the low (160watts) allow a minimum of 8 amps per 100 watts......... hope this helps!!
Cheers
Chris
AnswerID:
197460
Follow Up By: Member - Pesty (SA) - Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 22:22
Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 22:22
Thanks Chris, looks good and easy to follow.
Cheers Pesty
FollowupID:
456028
Reply By: Member - Jiarna (NT) - Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 20:03
Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 20:03
Hi Pesty
I rewired my 80 series to beef up the current to the headlights, and while doing so I put in separate relays for hi and lo beam (partly because one of the OE ones was cooked and too $$ to replace)
Instead of doing the usual and using the hi beam wire and an earth wire to trigger the relay, I found that it works fine if you use the high beam wire and the common wire from the OE headlight plug to trigger the high beam relay, and the low beam and the common wire to trigger the low beam relay. This allowed the dash high beam light to work properly as
well.
Similarly, to fire up the Lightforces only on high beam, I triggered their relays from the OE high beam wire and common wire. Just forget about positive and negative, and leave the multimeter on the shelf, as both wires read 12V relative to earth until they are switched.
My setup has worked fine for over a year so far.
Cheers
John
AnswerID:
197497
Follow Up By: Member - Pesty (SA) - Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 22:06
Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 22:06
Tried that, but the 80 is different, as it comes out standard with semi sealed beams with H4 globes where as the 60 has sealed beams.
Tried what you said you did and the high beam worked, but not the high beam light or the activation for the
driving lights, and nothing at all on the low beam side, so the 80 and the 60 must be slightly different.
Have some good answers to try and a couple good links so will give them a bash.
Wasted enough time this week with it so will have to wait now till we get back from
Kangaroo Island.
Thanks to all those that replied, this sight sure is a good resource.
Cheers Pesty
FollowupID:
456025
Reply By: Member - DOZER- Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 22:52
Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 22:52
Pete
Ive been down this road before...the flamin terminals on the sealed beams are orientated different to the halogen ones....if you put the sealed back in, i bet it works ok....get one and make a diagram of the three prongs, then
test it and mark them common, low and high...the common is the positive, and high and low are neg switched......now get the halogen globe and do thesame....you will end up needing to pick out the spades on two of the wires in the light plug, and swap them about.
As it is, you will have high beam on low, and hardly anything on high...right???? the hardly anything is power going through both filaments at once....
Have fun....some of the first 80's were sealed beam, and others were halogen...
Andrew
AnswerID:
197541
Follow Up By: Member - Pesty (SA) - Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 23:07
Monday, Oct 02, 2006 at 23:07
Yep spot on Andrew, will get it sorted, thanks for the info.
Cheers Pesty
FollowupID:
456046