Handbrake Problem - Troopie

My handbrake in the 100 series works really good. When I pull up at a gate that needs opening, she just jumps out and opens it without having to remind her. she does need a lot of maintenance though. LOL

Davoe, that is why it is good to have a Toyota handbrake like Des Lexic's...

Hi Rambler

How's the knees?

Good I hope

Richard

Hi Ian, I hope you made the comment about the drive shaft brake as a joke !

They are more dangerous then the Troopie brakes.

Well, I must admit to being a bit 'tongue in cheek' with the Land Rover upgrade bit but what's wrong with transmission brakes in principle? If properly adjusted (and this proviso applies to any type) they hold at least the two rear wheels and, if 4WD or centre diff lock is engaged, they hold all four wheels with the mechancal advantage of the diff ratio (between 3.54 and 4.7 in Landies).

On both my old '77 Series III and my '97 Disco they work perfectly and, should they need adjusting, it takes about 30 seconds. What major design flaw have I failed to notice?

Hi Ian,
I beg to differ on the transmission handbrake being safer.
In two wheel drive with an open diff they are dead set dangerous.
Jack one rear wheel up on a bit of a slope and a I gaurantee the wheel on the ground will roll down the slope. The wheel in the air will rotate in the opposite direction and next thing that happens is the vehicle falls off the jack!

As to the specific Toyota transmission brake mentiond, I've owned three Landcruisers with transmission handbrakes. FJ40, HJ45 and HJ47.
They where all like testing matches. You'd spend time getting them just perfect, use them once and the bloody things wouldn't light again.

To be honest, the rear wheel in the disc handbrake in my opinion on the Landcruisers slays the Landcruiser transmission handbrake. I've had a 105 Series and my current HDJ78 with this setup.

Geoff.

G'day Geoff,

Now, I don't think I ever mentioned the term 'safer'? I think I said, "design flaws".

I don't want to start becoming 'holier than thou' but sorry, I don't regard jacking up a vehicle on a slope without chocks as "safe", no matter what sort of handbrake you may have.

In any case, should you have followed the "nanny state" warning sticker on my Disco, right beside the jack, you might still be OK. It says (as well as telling you to chock the wheels!) something like "put the transmission into low range with the diff lock on before jacking any wheel". In this case, with a proper, working transmission brake, the non-jacked axle would also be holding the vehicle. I maintain my question, 'please point out to me the fundamental design flaw with a transmission brake?'.

By the way, I'd assumed the early Toyota ones actually worked, like the Land Rover ones do (and have for five decades).

Hi Ian
It really is a sad day when the only thing you have to argue with is a Disco. The troopy is the ace in the pack...we left the joker for you!! LOL. Cheers

Hi Ian,
I do actually agree with your design and it doesn't actually have a flaw. This is a classic example of what happens when one party, me is thinking something but in haste types some of the information but not all that I'm trying to express.

Now, the case I raised actually happened to my mates wife. She got a flat rear tyre in their FJ55 Landcruiser wagon. Rang the NRMA. Said NRMA chap comes out, applies the handbrake, jacks the wagon and promptly runs the scenario I mentioned.
So I guess what I'm saying rather poorly is experienced people who aren't experienced with a particular design can and will have troubles if they don't take extreme care. ie, wheel chocks as you mentioned.

Another of my mates has a 1955 model Series I landie and the transmission brake on it works a treat, slays the old Toyota transmission brakes.

Have a good one mate,
Geoff.

Hi Geoff,

I see where you're coming from but I'd have to say the NRMA man was a bit of a goose to rely on ANY handbrake on a slope, and should have known better.

Hey, Leigh, thanks mate - I knew I'd get at least one bite! I'd still be willing to put my standard Disco up against a factory-standard Troopie any day (not one with bigger tyres, longer suspension, body lifts, diff locks and all the other things the owners of such vehicles seem to need to fit immediately upon leaving the dealer's premises, to overcome the shortcomings of their misguided choices). And, as well as leaving the Tojo cross-axled in the bush, I guarantee my ride to and from the rough stuff will be far more comortabe too! Hove a good one!

I really admire people with conviction....Good on you Ian!! Cheers

Leigh

Fair go, Leigh! I've never had a conviction recorded! - it was all a "fit-up", Guv...

Hmmm, I notice you don't actually dispute my claims. The truth can be so cruel, can't it?

Hi Ian, Nothing like a bit of stick here and there eh. Yes you sure have a capable vehicle but we probably do different types of trips with different load requirements and therefore the choices will be different, no more, no less!!. Cheers

Well said. Have a good one.
Ian

Re the Handbrake. Can l upgrade the Handbrake in an 80 Series? Whats involved in doing this.

Cheers
Barn

No idea mate!

Just know that my 1997 75 series Troopy will hold 3,495kgs on the steepest mother of a hill you are likely to find in suburbia.

Lucy

why did you get her re-engineered for GVM purposes?

It's only a question "maybe dumb" but

Richard

Richard

Nothing is dumb on this forum other than possibly the constant queries about 'what tyres should I buy or what tyres are right for me'

Well its like this, my rig pic is nothing like the real deal. The pic is only there to infuriate Member MAD DOG from Geelong.

When its fully geared up, fueled, plus water and two bodies it weighs in at anywhere between 3.2t & 3.4t which as you are aware exceeds the compliance plate GVM of 3.1t. for a 1997 75 series Troopy.

So I had it engineered up to 3.495t which left a 5kg margin for 'interpretation errors' on max GVM of 3.5t and plenty of room for me to add a bit of extra.

3.5t is the magic figure when extra polution/emission controls come in to the equation and virtually make it non starter due to economics.

Now the overall reason is that it was unroadworthy under the original compliance rating which if 'pinged' for, instantly voids the insurance and if directed in to a weighing station on the highways which happens in some states with great regularity, well then the problems start to esculate like, 'whats all that stuff on your b-bar'. Hmmmm! those driving lights don't appear to be within the height/width limits etc etc etc. and Oh! my goodness look at those tyres and wheels - a tad large sir, will have to check compliance on them all so.

So you see, it was so much easier to re-engineer the GVM which includes new/updated certificates under current regs for other mods as well as a new tyre placard for the tyres and wheels on the vehicle at time of re - engineering.

I would say a majority of 4WD's would be un roadworthy if the tyres were checked.

Its funny how people like to go bigger without finding out how big they can legally go.

The tyre sellers aren't all that much help as their main objective is to sell tyres.

As always some are good and helpful ones and others that just don't give a chit and supply what ever the customer asks for without passing on the current Reg requirements.

Anyway thats why I did it.

Lucy

Thank you

Richard