in cab winch control

Submitted: Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 20:42
ThreadID: 39094 Views:9877 Replies:6 FollowUps:8
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Does any one out there know how to wire a in cab winch control system with a main on/off switch and a three stage in/neutral/out switch while still being able to use the original control box as well, id love to be able to get a wiring diagram if possible. save me getting a headache.
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Reply By: prado-wolf - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:05

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:05
Hi rheno,

i can not give you a diagram but i can tell you that it can be done because i have the original outlet on the box, actually under the bonnet, one handcontroller hardwired in the cab on the passenger side and a hardwired in / out toggle switch in the dash.

Good luck.
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Follow Up By: rheno - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:08

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:08
Cheers, at least im not dreaming. maybe job for auto elecy $$$$$
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Reply By: Member - Crazie (VIC) - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:24

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:24
rheno

Just tap into the original plug on the control box. You will have an earth and 2 or 4 other wires depending on your winch. run these to a switch. I would also have a switch isolating this in cab control so no one can play with it.

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AnswerID: 202679

Follow Up By: rheno - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:32

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:32
Spose seems pretty straight forward, doin it for safety aswel after hearing bout pranksters cutting cars in half in carparks buy using paperclips in controlbox and attaching cable to towbars,
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Follow Up By: Member - Crazie (VIC) - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:34

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:34
put a big battery isolater on your main power wire under the bonnet some where. a narva one with a big key you can remove, that will stop anyone messing with it.

good luck

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Follow Up By: rheno - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:50

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:50
yeah isolator switch is on the top of the to do list cheers for helpin
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Follow Up By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 22:42

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 22:42
Nick R has an Ironman one with a remote that works very well. Of course has a battery isolator on it too. Switch on the side of the remote to switch that off. Don't know the range but it there are limits to the distance you want to work from.
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Follow Up By: Nick R - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 23:38

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 23:38
I can fill you in on the range, One night I was going to use it to assist a cow calving, fortunately I didn't need it but as I was walking back to the car I tried the remote and the winch fired up while I was still 30 metres away.
Not sure it's meant for pulling calves but it would be easily capable!!!
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Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Friday, Nov 03, 2006 at 08:24

Friday, Nov 03, 2006 at 08:24
reheno,

I have also put the in cabin control switch in the cabin.

As a safety I also ran the active wire through another switch so that switch has to be on before the winch can work. That way if the control switch is bumped or someone starts to play with the switch nothing will happen until the safety is turned on.

As far as stopping the vandals from using the winch from the control box at the front of the vehicle there are 3 ways to stop the winch from being used.

1. Isolating switch on the main positive cable.
This requires a big switch that can take up to 400amps. Anytime that the cable is cut and joined again you run the risk of voltage drop and if the connections vibrate arcing might accrue.

2. Place the control under the bonnet.
If there is enough room under the bonnet this is a good place for the control box. I had trouble with the solenoids not working because of corrosion. Water would build up around the connections and they would stop working. After placing the control box under the bonnet, with the heat of the motor the control box would stay dry and the solenoids would work fine.

3. If the winch you have is a late model Warn, then there is a very thin black cable that has to be earthed. This is the earth cable for the solids. If it is not connected the solids don't work. Extend this cable so that it goes inside the cabin. Run it through a switch and then earth the cable. The switch must be on before the winch can work. It is only earthing the solenoids so that they can work so there is very little amps flowing through the cable. This cable would only be .5 of a mm.

The method of having a switch on the dash that control the winch has been already covered, and I think that it is great to be able to control the winch from the drivers seat with out the remote hand control running across the bonnet and in through the driver window. You will still need the hand control at the front of the vehicle to feed the cable back onto the drum. It is a lot easer to control the winch when you can see how the cable is going back onto the drum.

BTW, I have a hydraulic winch. The motor has to be running to use the winch. Draws next to nothing from the battery, it only requires the control solenoid to be activated, 2.5 amps I think. With this type of winch you must have access to the vehicle before the winch can work. I have also put a control switch on the dash, with a safety switch, so that the winch can be operated form both inside and outside the vehicle.

Wayne
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Reply By: prado-wolf - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:36

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:36
rheno,

no need for auto electrician , i did all of this myself and it still works after 3 years usage.
I stared of with adding the handcontroller in the cab to the connections in the controller box and once i had that one in the cab i split the cables again and wired the toggle switch into it.

AnswerID: 202684

Follow Up By: rheno - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:48

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 21:48
Prado wolf cheers mate all info is greatly appreciated,
will suss it out on sundyhopefully
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Reply By: Member - 'Lucy' - Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 22:39

Thursday, Nov 02, 2006 at 22:39
Yes! portion of urine.

I have two on the Troopy plus the normal 5 pin Warn Winch controller outlet.

Plus two 'isolators' (not the battery isolator)
AnswerID: 202719

Reply By: Grungle - Friday, Nov 03, 2006 at 07:43

Friday, Nov 03, 2006 at 07:43
I have a couple of diagrams.

http://www.mcs.net.au/~grungle/pictures/in cab.bmp

http://www.mcs.net.au/~grungle/pictures/winch-switches.jpg

ExplorOz will will not show imbedded images or links to the pictures at the moment so you will have to cut and paste unfortunately.

Regards
David
AnswerID: 202751

Reply By: Robin - Friday, Nov 03, 2006 at 09:32

Friday, Nov 03, 2006 at 09:32
Some good coverage above on in cab winch control.

Did my patrol a little differently, for my Brawn (chinese type) winch which uses the 4 soleniod system as most do.

Just required two switches.

1st is an on off switch and it gets 12v from acessories and it just goes thru a switch, this one has a light in it to know when it is on.

The 12v output , goes to the centre of a centre off toggle switch.
(return to centre- a little hard to find).

So its neutral normally
Pushing switch one way, or the other switches the 12v to the in or out soleniods.

All mounted just to right of car keys , such that its very easy to steer and operate car while using winch controls.

So easy to use and can be reached from outside the car so never needed to use the under bonnet normal system - don't even carry hand controller any more.

The above means that two switches have to be operated to move winch and also car set to acessories or ign on.
This provides some saftey and security

Robin Miller

AnswerID: 202766

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