EGT temperature?

I'd be asking Denco what their opinion is.

Gerry,

I just self installed a Denco kit and have the commissioning instructions that state:

In the setup instructions - point 19 Adjust maximum fuel screw to obtain a maximum of 500 C exhaust under full load at the pyrometer.

In the WARNING notes
ALL DENCO TURBO SYSTEM RUN AT 50KPA BOOST MAXIMUM AND A MAXIMUM OF 550 C UNDER POWER LOAD UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED.

I have also just received my EGT and will be installing it in the next day or two. I will adjust fuel to 500 C as recommended. I would also think that running to a max of 500 C is what Denco is looking for.

Good luck

Gerry, my Isspro EGT Gauge is colour coded, it is in oF, green to 1050F = 565 C
yellow to 1250 F = 675 C, hope this helps. John

OK..so i'm a dummy. Being relatively new to turbo diesel- what's the go with EGT.
What is it and what does it do?? Obviously a monitor of some sort??
Like a Fitch- is it essential???

Gerry
Consider 590 as an absolute maximum....so aim for 550, drive to 550, but 600 is what you should not go past....you will find it quick on sand....
I would install an intercooler if i were you....doing this will lower your egt...ie lower air temp in, lower combustion zone and exhaust temp out....then you can turn the screw a little more...even a std cooler setup from a factory 100 t/d will be better than nothing...

I would query Denco.
Just be aware that there are two places an EGT can be mounted, before and after the turbo, but sounds like you are aware of that.
Rule of thumb I have heard is 700deg C before the turbo and 500 deg C after the turbo, but all installations are different.

I have been told not to go over 600deg C (before turbo EGT) for periods no longer than a minute, and 650/700 deg absolute max. I have often seen 630 and once 670 for a few seconds before changing down a gear.

More you play it safe, more engine and turbo life you will get. Like fuel economy, you make the decision with your right foot :o)

550

When we fitted the gauge to our Patrol, the best information sheet we could find was from Member Ian's website www.thermoguard.com.au/

Extract: When EGT is measured upstream of the turbocharger
(that is between the exhaust ports and the turbo exhaust
gas inlet), it is generally accepted that sustained
temperatures in excess of 720 °C (~1330 °F) will result
in progressive and irreversible damage to components.

Ours has never reached near that. Around 575 - 600 up hill is about the highest.

I can't find any reference to temperatures for after turbo installation on the above information sheet. Last year around when we had ours fitted, a number of people posted their temperature readings for both before and after - may be worth a search.

Guess what Gerry

I have a 1997 75 1HZ Troopy which I fitted an aftermarket DTS now MTQ turbo to.

I also installed and EGT ( after the turbo) supplied by the guy who advertises on this website.

Things to be aware of:

(1) Turbo itself does not generate heat - it generates BOOST ( forced/compressed air to combustion chamber)

(2) The combusted gases on exiting the combustion chamber expand and release heat ( ie energy) which drives the turbo, which in turn compresses the air on the inlet side. (The cycle)

(3) The energy(heat) expended driving the turbo, in most instances (non high performance) approximates 200C

Eg. 700C before turbo - 500C after turbo

(4) The air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber is what governs the heat.

Overfuel and the heat rises exponentially.

(5) At the aforementioned temps (700C - 500C) nothing much untoward happens to any sort of turbo, in fact it is a pretty cool temp for them to operate at.

In Competition trucks, and high performance vehicles the turbo's get so hot that they can glow red and in some instances melt whatever type of bearing/bush that is used.

Now back to your 1HZ

520C after the turbo is the recommended max. for a 1HZ and I would most probably use same as rule of thumb for any other road vehicle.

I watch mine like a hawk and when it passes 450C, get ready to change down a gear which makes an instant change to the temp.

High EGT'S are real good indicator that the engine is overfuelled and subsequently overheating.

Hope this helps

Many thanks to all for your advice and comments - that's what I like about this forum, lot's of terrific input. It seems that as long as I try and keep the temperature on the low side of 520 degrees, I shouldn't have any problems.
Thanks again.
Cheers
Gerry

Lol... complex arguments....with a diesel, more fuel equals more heat,(rich) opposite to the petrol,which is less fuel equals more heat (lean burn).
With that said, whatever motor you have needs to be controlled in the combustion zone heat wise, so those alloy pistons dont grow more than the tollerance they have in their bore and grab it.... Toyota use oil squirters under their pistons to transfer heat from them to the cooling system via heat exchangers in the block. Its all about that combustion zone....and not melting it. Combustion zone temps become cooler if inlet charge is lower, because 1/4 of the cycle is influenced by air inlet...if all else can be controlled thesame, then combustion zone temp reduces with inlet temp.
Now...an intercooler cools inlet temperature of the compressed air. Cooler air has more oxygen because it is denser than hot air....more oxygen in a diesel means cooler (leaner) burn...This fact is why intercooled diesels always return more power, because the fuel screw can be safely turned up to give the denser air more fuel till optimum mix (and acceptable combustion zone temp) is achieved. Problem is, sometimes it is 40 deg outside, and you are driving slowly in soft sand....thats when an egt can avert a meltdown... with the egt, you can adjust standard concervitive setting to give you more power...aslong as you drive to the gauge and are aware of your surroundings.
An intercooler is a restriction....so the turbo is usually boosted up another few pounds to give the standard boost at the maifold. This has an effect of keeping in heat at the turbo (much like a blocked exhaust will allow overheating eventually)...Thesame psi seen at the inlet side of the turbo is also generated upstream of the turbo turbine to drive it....after it exits the turbine, the less restriction ion the exhaust will give a better pressure drop across the turbine...this will give more boost..so the less restriction the better to generate the boost, so less fuel needs to be used, so less heat is generated, so it can be seen that there are alot of inputs to consider....but the main one is combustion zone temp....and the best way to check it is an EGT pre turbo (pre cooling effects) but after turbo is quite acceptable with the 200 deg fudge factor.
Andrew

For more information on this topic see the info at Site Link

Fitting my gauge this weekend - As per the Denco documents 500 will be my guide and 550 will mean pull foot off and stop.

Since Denco are going to be providing the warranty, Id be inclined to go with their recommendation.

Also note that 1HZ is a IDI engine. The heads are prone to cracking from overheating aroundn the pre-combustion chambers if the combustion temp gets too high - be forewarned.

There is about a 3:1 ratio between inlet air temp and EGT. An intercooler helps reduce the temperature of incoming air temp. This assists in reducing EGT and combustion temperatures. As a result more fuel can be added (if there is sufficent air alreay avail) to improve power slightly, or slightly cooler combustion temps for improved relaibility.

If the EGT goes high, back off the throttle and change down a gear.