Changing RB30 Nissan water pump

Submitted: Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 17:54
ThreadID: 40832 Views:13092 Replies:5 FollowUps:16
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Hi all
I have fond water leaking from around the water pump pulley bearing on my GQ RB30 powerhouse. I have the new pump and all the tools and fairly good mechanical knowledge. As l have never worked on an RB30 before is there anything in particular I should watch out for especially with the timing gear as the pump seems to sit behind the timing belt cover.
Any help on this would be much appreciated

Thanks
Steve
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 18:05

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 18:05
I've done it on the RB30 in an R31 Skyline. You have to remove and replace the timing belt, but it was all straightforward. I followed the workshop manual for the timing belt tension and timing - sorry haven't got it with me, so can't fill you in on the detail.
AnswerID: 213061

Follow Up By: Member - steve H (QLD) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 18:12

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 18:12
Thanks for your reply Phil
Do you think this is something I should attempt without the manual ??

Thanks
Steve
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 19:29

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 19:29
I'd always follow a manual. Getting it wrong can be costly. Hopefully someone here might have a manual and post the info.
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Reply By: Brew69(SA) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 19:58

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 19:58
1) drain cooling system.
2) Disconnect neg batt terminal
3) Remove upper radiator hose
4)remove the upper radiator radiator shroud retaining screws, squeeze the clips retaining the upper radiator shroud to the lower radiator shroud and remove the upper shroud from the vehicle.
5) Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and remove the drive belt(s) from the water pump pulley.
6) Remove the nuts and washers retaining the fan clutch and pulley to the water pump flange,
7) Slide the fan, clutch assembley and pulley from the and remove the components from the vehicle.
8) On 3.0 litre models proceed as follows.
a) Remove the timing belt as described in the Engine section.....(will do this at end for you)
b) Remove the water pump retaining bolts, noting the position and length of each bolt as it is withdrawn.
10) Inspect the pump body and the impeller for cracks, damage and corrosion.
11) check the bearing for excessive play in the pump body and excessive noise when rotated.
12) Check the clutch assembly by rotating the unit by hand. A moderate amount of drag should be felt and the unit should rotate smoothly.The unit is not repairable and if any sign of fluid leaks the unit should be renewed.

Installation is the reversal.
1) Ensure that the mounting faces of the pump and the engine are clean and free from any traces of the old liquid gasket.
2) Apply a 2-3mm bead of genuine liquid gasket to the water pump sealing sealing surface , ensuring that the sealant runs around the inner side of the bolt holes.
3) On 3.0 models proceed as follows.
a) Install the water pump to the cylinder block and tighten the bolts as shown in the illustration (will see if i can scan)
b) install the timing belt as described in the engine section..........(later again)
5)install the pulley, clutch assembley and fan to the water pump. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque. (will see on pic when scanned)
6) Install the drive belts and adjust.
7) Insall upper radiator shroud and tighten retaining screws securely. Connect and tighten negative batt terminal.
8) Install the upper radiator hose and fill cooling system.
9) run engine and check for leaks.

Give me a while for the other bits......my fingers hurt lol.
AnswerID: 213071

Follow Up By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 20:09

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 20:09
"Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure"

Once it took me 40min to take a Kingawood window out ,and about a week to get it back in !

This is my favourite call at work , espescially if someone has everything well apart !

LOL

Glenn.
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Follow Up By: Brew69(SA) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 20:16

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 20:16
Removing timing belt.

Remove the drive belts from power steering pump, the alternator and if applicable the a/c compressor.
Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.(It may be necessary to to wrap and old drive belt around the crankshaft pulley and hold the belt with a lever to prevent the pulley turning.
Install a harmonic balancer puller to the crankshaft pulley and withdraw the pulley from the engine.
Disconnect the high tension leads from the upper timing belt cover.
Disconnect the charcoal canister and distributor hoses from the pipes at the front of the timing cover and place the hoses to one side clear of the work area.
Remove the retaining bolts from the upper timing cover, lift the high tension leads clear of the cover and manouvre the cover from the engine.
Remove the timing belt guide plate from the crankshaft gear and ensure that the timing mark on the gear aligns with the timing mark on the oil pump housing.
If the timing belt is to be re used it will be necessary to mark the belt with an arrow to indicate the direction of rotation of the belt and also the position of the camshaft and crankshaft gear timing marks.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner locknut, rotate the tensioner clockwise using an allen key and tighten the locknut to hold the tensioner.
Slide the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft gears.

More to come need a break lol.
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Follow Up By: Member - steve H (QLD) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 20:26

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 20:26
Your doing well so far. This is excellent !!!
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Follow Up By: Brew69(SA) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 20:47

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 20:47
To install

1) Ensure that the No 1 cylinder is on TDC with the crankshaft gear mark aligned with the mark on the oil pump housing.
2) Ensure that the dowel pin on the camshaft is in the upper most position.
3) Install the tensioner and the spring to the front of the cylinder block ensuring that the spring end engages the stud in such a manner that the tensioner will tension the belt.
4) Install the flat washer and then the wave washerwith the concave part of the washertowards the tensioner.Position the tensioner pulley away from the timing belt using an allen key and temporarily tighten the locknut.
5) If a new belt is being used it should be markedIf not put a mark on the belt above one groove and count back 53 grooves from this position. Put another mark above the 53rd groove.
6) Slide the timing belt onto the camshaft and crankshaft gears ensuring that the marks on the belt are aligned with the timing marks on the camshaft and crankshaft gears and that the directional arrow is pointing as marked at removal.
7) Loosen the tensioner locknut and allow the tensioner to tension the timing belt.
(note. The rocker arm retaining bolts must be loosened off as previously described otherwise the timing belt tension will be incorrect.)
8) Using an allen key rock the tensioner in both directions 2 or 3 times to ensure correct belt tension)
9) While holding the tensioner in the position with the allen key, tighten the tensioner locknut to the specified torque. ( Do not apply any more than spring tension to the timing belt or noisy operation and excessive wear will result.)
10) With the dowel pin on the camshaft gear uppermost, tighten the rocker shaft bolts for cylinders number 4,5 and 6 to specified torque.
11) Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction,using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut until the dowel pin on the camshaft gear is pointing downwards. With the dowell pin in this position tighten the rocker shaft bolts for cylinders 1 2 and 3 to specified torque.
12)As the final check rotate the engine clockwise again until the dowel pin is uppermost and check that all rocker shaft bolts are tightened to specific torque.
13 ) Install the timing belt guide plate to the crankshaft pulley with the concave surface facing outwards.
14) Install upper and lower timing covers ensuring all seals are correctly attatched. Thighten the retaining bolts to specified torque.
15)Install the rocker cover.

Then back to water pump instructions.
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Follow Up By: Brew69(SA) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:09

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:09
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Follow Up By: Brew69(SA) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:10

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:10
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Follow Up By: Brew69(SA) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:11

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:11
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Follow Up By: Pezza (Bris) - Thursday, Jan 04, 2007 at 09:29

Thursday, Jan 04, 2007 at 09:29
3 cheers for The Brewman !!!
Mate that was a hell of an effort, and an extrordinary amount of work to help out a complete stranger.
I'm sure that has earnt you a whole new level of respect ( not that you didn't have any before lol.) on this forum, well done.

Avagoodn
Pezza
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Follow Up By: Flash - Thursday, Jan 04, 2007 at 20:02

Thursday, Jan 04, 2007 at 20:02
Brew69, you're a legend.
Wow, what an effort!
I'm impressed!!!!
Cheers
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Reply By: lifeisgood - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:20

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:20
I think Brew deserves another beer after that effort.
Think it should indicate that a manual would be a good investment.
A mechanic friend did the timing belt on my RB30 so I replaced the water pump at the same time just in case. He used a neat trick to crack loose the impossibly tight crankshaft pulley nut. A socket and long bar resting firmly on the chassis and a short quick flick of the starter motor (spark coil isolated) did the job.

It would be a good investment to fit a new timing belt after going to all that trouble.
There is a nissan manual specifically for the GQ RB30 engine.
AnswerID: 213082

Follow Up By: lifeisgood - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:30

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:30
And be sure the fan clutch assembly is in good order since any vibration on the fan unit is going to shorten the life of the new pump bearings. good luck
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Follow Up By: Brew69(SA) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:40

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:40
The TB42 is much simpler.
If i was doing the above i would be doing the lot like you suggest mate.
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Follow Up By: donks1 - Thursday, Jan 04, 2007 at 07:24

Thursday, Jan 04, 2007 at 07:24
A socket and long bar resting firmly on the chassis and a short quick flick of the starter motor (spark coil isolated) did the job. ???????????

has your mate ever seen this done only to have the crank snap in half???????

not a good idea..

any half decent mechanic will have a 3/4 inch rattle gun for that job

donks
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Reply By: Member - steve H (QLD) - Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:39

Wednesday, Jan 03, 2007 at 21:39
Thanks to all who replied brew69 that was a fantastic effort on your part.
I will be buying the manual tomorrow to make sure that everything is done properly. Changing the timing belt and all hoses and belts is now definatly going to be done. This GQ has done only 165,000ks and I have done only 15,000 of them and I don't know its service history so again thanks to all for your advise it just show what resources are available on exploroz

Steve
AnswerID: 213092

Follow Up By: Member - BUNDY BOY (WA) - Thursday, Jan 04, 2007 at 09:13

Thursday, Jan 04, 2007 at 09:13
HI Steve......i agree with Brew .if you going to do water pump.change timing gear at the same time ...did all mine two months ago..even just for peace of mind regarding timing belt.you know its done and wont have to worry about it for years
...Cheers BUNDY
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Reply By: Member - steve H (QLD) - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 19:32

Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 19:32
Just another thank you to Brew69

I have the mechanic picking up the GQ Monday to do:

Water pump
timing gear
All belts
All radiator hoses

Even though l am confident I thought it was better to use the professionals as the last thing i want is to be stuck out there somewhere.

Thanks again

Steve
AnswerID: 213494

Follow Up By: Brew69(SA) - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 21:35

Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 21:35
:)
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