I can't switch over to the sub fuel tank
Submitted: Friday, Jan 26, 2007 at 10:16
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wksatsrk
Hi all. What a great site, so much info.
I have recently purchased a '91 80 series diesel.
After some small repairs, she runs great, and belies her age.
However, I have noticed when I have got low on the main tank, the sub tank light wouldn't come on when depressed. The auto electrician couldn't find anything wrong with the switch, and after leaving the sub button depressed, it was clear I was only running off the main tank.
Is this a common problem?
Am I looking at an electrical problem, or mechanical?
Cheers.
Reply By: Member - DOZER- Friday, Jan 26, 2007 at 11:08
Friday, Jan 26, 2007 at 11:08
Hi again. Start by turning on the ignition and having a friend assist switching on and off the subtank whilst you listen for the tell tale clicking of the solenoids above the rear diff. If nothing happens there, they arnt getting the signal, and your problem is further back.
Check for loose wires down there...also
check for connection in the various wiring plugs, take some wr40 to them and pull them appart/spray/put back. f that doesnt help, then the problem is further back at the dash.
If the fuses are good (and globe) it could be the switch, but it will be the very first one ive heard of...the problems usually stem from mud and connections, or sticks dislodging wires...
Being a new purchase, i would
check to see if the solenoids are there...as the previous owner may have encountered problems and decided to disconect them.
Andrew
AnswerID:
217894
Reply By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Friday, Jan 26, 2007 at 21:43
Friday, Jan 26, 2007 at 21:43
I had this problem in my Troopie about 4 years ago so off I went and bought a set of Solenoids , They are very expensive but if your lucky and just happen to drop into Bell & Moir Toyota in Mt Isa one can score a bargain because a lot of stuff is taken off the new underground vehicles and they flog it off cheap , so yep I got a cheap set, BUT after about 4 months same thing again , So what I did was open both fuel Caps, drop the main fuel line from the filter and forced compressed air back down the line until I heard bubbles in the front tank, then switched over to the rear tank and did the same until I heard bubbles , problem solved for about 4/5 months and same again , I been doing this operation now for 4 years , the last time was about 3 months ago , What I think is is it either gets an air lock or something small fouls the solenoid ,
Doug
AnswerID:
217958
Follow Up By: wksatsrk - Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 15:52
Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 15:52
Thanks again guys...here's what happened to day.
The electrician quickly found there was no power to the back end, and then re checked the switch.
After giving that a cleanup and
test, he went looking for a relay, as the wires didn't match at either end.
After looking inside the panel, he found the relay switch was removed....NOW.
No one seems to want to give out any info there, and he is finding a hard time of looking at an electrical circuit diagram to find just what belongs where.
Would any of you there happen to have the wiring instructions for the sub tank please...1991 80 series GL wagon.
The sooner he knows what is missing, and what should be fitted, the quicker we can get this tank operating !!!
Cheers.
FollowupID:
479252
Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Nullagine) - Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 16:15
Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 16:15
hmm you dont remove stuff like that for fun i suspect there may have been a problem possibly like I indcated below and there solution was to remove a solonoid? sounds suss. I reckon you are starting to find out why it isnt worth buyinf a 4by " that just needs a little work- not much" as the repairs are ongoing and all bills are rounded up to the nearest grand
FollowupID:
479259
Follow Up By: wksatsrk - Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 17:58
Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 17:58
Well Dave, I don't have a spare 40K+ to throw around, and no, I didn't buy it as a 4x "something that needs a little work". LOL.
Anyway, until we can get hold of the sub tank electrical diagram, we won't know if there are any other problems.
PS....she runs a treat, getting
well over 600kms a tank ... thats towing, general everyday running around, and climbing a lot of steep hills.
Cheers.
FollowupID:
479277
Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Nullagine) - Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 18:11
Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 18:11
not having a go I bought my 80 needing a bit of work. i went ineyes open though and paid a reasnble price. final bill for a fix here and there still came to $3000
which was still a bit more than i thought (mostly brake problems new master cylinder, new rear discs, new load proportioning valve, new rear hub, brakes all round and a new radiator).
600k to the tank is OK I get from
Perth to Kal (around 600k)just as the light gos on without towing which is a bit on the heavy side but OK
FollowupID:
479281
Follow Up By: wksatsrk - Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 19:09
Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 19:09
NP Dave. I got some people to give her a good going over before I bought. I am lucky in that my ex has had cruisers all his life, and his good friend is a cruiser deisel mechanic specialist.
I was also very fortunate that the last owners mechanic was available to have a word to, and he went through the last service with me.
I agree, the relay doesn't get removed for no reason, and until we can get the wiring layout to replace it all, we won't know if there is a problem.
Even if there is, that would be the only hiccup with the truck..as I said, she is a beauty to drive, and I couldn't be happier...(OK, so if I had the latest model with all the trims maybe...LOL).
Cheers.
FollowupID:
479295