Dual battery wiring
Submitted: Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 07:58
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AdlelaideGeorge
This wiring is in a boat but the principle would be exactly the same for a 4 wheel drive. I wonder if anybody knows how to connect the +ve and -ve to a 'Off', 'Both', 'No1' or 'No2' battery selection switch. I want to have the 'Both' and 'No2' selections power the leads - no power at 'Off' and no power at 'No1' selections.
If any reader has wired up a 4x4 battery set up in this wayI'd be grateful for some advice. I can give more information if required.
Thanks in advance
George
Reply By: pt_nomad - Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 09:46
Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 09:46
George,
No quite shure what sort of switch you will need to meet your requirements.
My boat has a single isolation switch between the battery and all electrics. By putting a second battey in place with its own isolation switch, and then paralleling its output to the primary switch output, I think you could achieve all the functionality you require - but with two standard switches.
To make either battery available as you suggest means either could be used for starting. In this case I suggest getting an auto or marine elec. to make up and swage the correct cables for the task.
Remember that you should not use the hull for the return circuit. In a motor vehicle you do this by connecting the negative to the chassis. If you connect the negative to the hull on a boat (alloy) then you will make the hull corrode.
Paul.
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Follow Up By: AdlelaideGeorge - Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 10:07
Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 10:07
Thanks very much for the reply - I'll clarify some things. I have had a marine specialist instal the dual battery selection switch - that's in and working fine. I have installed a Fullriver 120AH battery in a battery box and this much is all professionally installed and connected.
I am getting quotes of $90 (over $300 all up) each for installing 3 cigar lighter type outlets in the boat - one for a fridge, one for the GPS and one for the cabin to power a DVD player etc.
I think that's a bit rich - I can do it myself but just to work out how to connect the +ve and -ve cables to which terminals on the seletor switch to get the 'Both' and 'No2' battery configuration. I think I'll have to conect the -ve to the battery next to the switch (the -ve's appear to be directly connected together0 and then it's just a matter of choosing the correct terminal/s on the back of the seletor switch. I hope I don't have to run 2 +ve's - one for the 'Both' and one for the 'No2' circuits.
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Reply By: DarrynJ - Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 10:33
Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 10:33
Hi George, ask the bloke who installed the system which is the starting battery and which is the auxiliary battery. Then run your ciggie lighter sockets from the terminals on the aux battery. when your stopped for the night turn the switch to Off or No1 and the accessories will run off the aux battery leaving the starting battery alone (assuming starting battery is No1). Don't forget to switch to Both or No2 when running to charge the aux battery. A mate of
mine (Auto Electrician no less!) had exactly the same set up in his Range Rover and claimed it to be the best for keeping both batteries charged, except he forgot about operator error and didn't switch the aux battery in and didn't notice it for a month. End result one stuffed N70ZZ battery and $120.00 or so down the drain.
Regd's Darryn
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