i know ,i know waeco again
Submitted: Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 17:28
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41792
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Gob & Denny
does anybody have the list of fault light flickers for the 80l i thought it was in the book but it only says 1 flicker is low voltage
steve
Reply By: Gob & Denny - Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 20:22
Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 20:22
thanks for the help guys jezza was spot on
not sure whats going on when i disconnect 240v back to battery i get the 1 blink turn unit off unplug the lead leave it a minute or so plug back in and away we go then 1 hot day about 10 days ago it did a multiple blink did the same unplug and then plug in again and all ok
its only a new battery and i wasnt convince the old 1 was u/s now i wonder if the wiring or solenoid from main battery to 2nd battery is crook
any way i will
test the lot later in the week when i can go for a drive and make sure everthing is fully charged
steve
AnswerID:
218694
Follow Up By: Utemad - Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 21:14
Tuesday, Jan 30, 2007 at 21:14
Mine was giving the low battery flash not long ago. I knew the battery was fine so I ran the fridge and checked all the voltage drops between the connections. I had more voltage drop between the fridge and the plug than between the battery and the rear socket. So I called Waeco and they sent me a new lead under warranty. However I have since found that the problem was the little copper crimps on the end of the lead inside the plug. One fell off when I pulled it. I have since discarded the merit plug and socket and use the Clipsal T config low voltage plug and socket from Dick Smith. The merit setup used to run a little warm. No problems since. Haven't even taken the new lead out of its bag.
Just before this little drama I had the fridge in for warranty repair. It was flashing three lights. Manual says that means either the motor control board or the motor itself was buggered. The service place couldn't fault it but I insisted that it had done it a few times. So they replaced the motor control board and it has not had that fault since. This problem happened on both 240v and 12v.
FollowupID:
479138
Follow Up By: Robnicko - Thursday, Feb 01, 2007 at 10:52
Thursday, Feb 01, 2007 at 10:52
When connected to 240 and 12v at the same time it will only work on 240. When 240 is disconnected the error light will flash for about a minute and the compressor stops working. The cooling fan will continue. This is because the power supply is switching over to 12Volt direct as opposed to 12v via transformer (this is what happens when you are connected to 240).
I have had the same thing happen and worked out that if you disonnect 240 v when the compressor is not cycling it wont happen. If you cannot wait for the compressor to stop just disconnect and reconnect 12v lead.
If the light flashes 3 times it is just overloading on a hot day which I worked out to being bad connection within the socket which contains the thermal fuse. There are little crimped connectors in there. Just drop some solder on them to make better connections.
Being an 80l with the BD50f compressor I would be making up a lead using 6mm wire and hard wiring it. Waeco's are good fridges but the lead they supply are absoloute crap.
FollowupID:
479404
Follow Up By: Utemad - Thursday, Feb 01, 2007 at 11:02
Thursday, Feb 01, 2007 at 11:02
I agree the lead they supply is crap. Sounds like you had the same problem as me with the little copper crimps.
Part of the reason this error (loose crimps) may not show itself on 240v is that the 240v pack outputs 24v not 12v. So on 24v I assume the fridge only draws half the amps.
FollowupID:
479407
Follow Up By: Robnicko - Thursday, Feb 01, 2007 at 11:10
Thursday, Feb 01, 2007 at 11:10
Sorry, I should have pointed out that
mine is a CF40AC so it can have 240 and 12/24 plugged into it at the same time but will prioritise 240v as the preferred power source. What I found amazing was the amount of voltage drop that occurs in the std lead. It is about 1.1v. When i made up a lead using 6mm wire the volage drop was 0.05v over the same distance.
You can
test this by taking the cover off where your lead plugs into the fridge and putting a multi-meter on the back of the plug when powered on and cycling. You will be very suprised as to how much voltage drop occurs through the Waeco lead.
FollowupID:
479409
Follow Up By: Utemad - Thursday, Feb 01, 2007 at 13:28
Thursday, Feb 01, 2007 at 13:28
OK so a different set up. I think it is only the BD-50 that can take 24v.
Well it is only the BD-50 equipped fridges they specify the 24v adapter for at least.
I had the same problem and tested it using the same method. Tested the voltage drops throughout my entire system. The drop between the fridge (by removing the panel you mention) to the inside of the plug was 0.36v. More than I had between the battery mounted in the front and the socket mounted in the rear. I found the drop in the lead was only over one wire though. Forget which it was (positve or negative) but it surprisingly enough was the same wire that had the loose crimp terminal in the plug. My lead is fine now that I cut the crimps off and use the Clipsal plug and socket. I did make a temporary lead though when I initially found the lead was faulty.
FollowupID:
479439
Reply By: Member - Matt M (ACT) - Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 19:28
Wednesday, Jan 31, 2007 at 19:28
Steve,
Not sure if you have the same problem as my AC50 had, but sounds similar.
Fridge cutting out on low voltage when there is heaps in the batteries.
Have a look at post 39735.
Matt.
BTW: I had nothing but excellent service from
Waeco in having this problem fixed under warranty.
AnswerID:
218866