Range Rover specific
Submitted: Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 17:28
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Martyn (WA)
Forumites,
Front axle of my Range Rover has two ball joint seals, over time these seals weep oil, which sort of a normal Range Rover owner accepted thing. In my last Rangie grease had been put in the CV joint area through the normal oil filler plug, I ran the vehicle for four years and maybe put some grease in every year, not a lot just a little bit. The CV's were perfect, no noise etc etc. My recent purchase still had oil in the CV's
well one did the N/S one, the O/S one has had a constant drip since I topped the oil up, I suspect there wasn't much in at all considering the amount I had to put in to fill it up. So I've heard that putting grease in is a fairly normal thing to do, is this right do others do this? I've now put grease in the O/S CV joint all appears dry now, I've left oil in the N/S CV for as long as it stays there.
So opinions and
views please, i'm interested, I've sort of answered my own question I'm just wondering what others have done and what others opinions are. I used a moly grease seeing that what you normally put in CV joints.
Reply By: Member - Matt Mu (Perth-WA) - Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 18:18
Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 18:18
Yep standard mod to all Defense Landrovers. Its a one-shot molybond squirt of grease, just a little more viscous than the CV molybond you get with new CV boots.
Solved the leaking swivel-pin housing weeping problems.
Mat.
AnswerID:
219949
Follow Up By: Member - Matt Mu (Perth-WA) - Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 18:22
Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 18:22
Oops forgot to mention....pretty hard to fill by just using the drain and fill points, airlocks pretty quick.
I made up a fitting that screwed into the drain bund and attached to a 'sludge' pump. Fill the pump with the molybond and then screw into the bottom and force the grease in from the bottom to the top. Turning the wheel as you go, stop when the grease comes out the filler hole. Same way you fill the leg on an outboard.
;)
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480532
Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 20:43
Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 20:43
Matt-Mu
I filled from the top down, I thought hat filling from the bottom up would push any crap in the housing back into the CV joint, my grease gun head is only a poofteenth smaller than the hole so I din't have much trouble with air locks when I took the drain bolt out. I've checked again tonight all looks good so far.
FollowupID:
480570
Reply By: Exploder - Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 18:24
Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 18:24
Question for a friend who has a Range Rover.
He recently fitted a 50mm Lift with king springs and 31” Mud terrains on the rangy
Say’s since the lift the thing is an absolute Dog to steer and is woeful around corners, it’s has no rear sway bar, but I doubt that would make as bad as he say’s it is, or would it?
AnswerID:
219953
Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 21:04
Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 21:04
Exploder,
If the vehicle handles like a dog on polished lino, it is a good chance that the caster it out. As the
suspension is raised the front wheels pivot down and back. The diff has to be rotated back to regain caster in the front tyres.
I know that caster kits are available for Nissan and Toyota but not sure about Range Rover.
Wayne
FollowupID:
480579
Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 22:55
Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 22:55
Exploder,
Rangie's drive like a blancmange anyway, when you lift them and do all that sort of stuff it's only going to get worse, you do get used to it to a point. I've got OME springs and LTR shox, I do have an anti sway bar on the back it's not much better than my original Rangie that didn't have one. One thing that did make a poo load of difference was replacing all the
suspension bushes, all of them were worn, this certainly tightened things up. If you do decide to do the bushes stick with the rubber bushes don't go with the Nolathane or some such material, if you expect the same amount of articulation you might get it but there is a chance something will bend or break. If the vehicle is going to only be used on road, h'way stuff Nolathane will be the go, seeing you mention a 50 mm lift and Mud terrains I suspect this isn't the case.
The ride around town is soon compensated when you have to do some off road work, that's when things work like they are supposed to.
My opinions as usual, others may vary.
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Redback - Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 08:19
Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 08:19
Do the Radius arms and panhard rod and it should be fine, go to AULRO heaps of guys there with lifted Rangies, also go to the Rover section of Outerlimits another place for great info on Rangies.
Baz.
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Follow Up By: John Davies - Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 10:31
Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 10:31
Do the things redback mentions then get a wheel alignment and make sure it is set to '1mm toe out'. Wouldn't hurt to check/replace tie rod ends and adjust steering box as
well.
Regards
John D
FollowupID:
480686
Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 21:10
Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 21:10
Martyn,
I thought that CVs had to have grease in them. If they have a oil type liquid it meant that oil from the diff had leaked passed the axle seal or water had entered through the hub.
It may be different on Range Rover.
I thought that CVs needed high pressure grease to handle the forces that are there in a CV.
Wayne
AnswerID:
220014
Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 23:05
Monday, Feb 05, 2007 at 23:05
Wayne,
OEM spec for the swivel housings is 90/140 hypoid oil, strange and a pain in the bot bot, especially when they leak. You are right about "normally" when you talk about CV joints, some CV joints I've had experience with in the past ask for a Moly grease which is what I've used, I was just wondering what others may have used. Thanks for the comments.
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: disco driver - Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 00:20
Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 00:20
Hi All,
As an ex rangie and series owner I too had the problem of leaky seals on the swivel joints. Fortunately the Disco hasn't started to there leak yet but it will sometime.
A friend of
mine who was a Lubricants technical advisor with BP advised me to use a grease known as FG100EP (BP product naturally). It's a semi fluid EP grease and did a brilliant job over many years in my vehicles.
Pump it in from the bottom and if you want to change, it blow it out from the top level plug with low pressure compressed air.
There may be equivalent products available from other Oil Co's.
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 09:32
Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 09:32
Disco Driver,
Thanks for that I wondered about a semi fluid grease, I didn't want to lead anybody into that one, that's great gives me another option to try, I might give the semi fluid grease a go in the passengers side, sounds like it needs something like that. Thanks
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Reply By: John Davies - Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 10:38
Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 10:38
From about 1997 LR changed all CV's to be lubed by grease to stop warranty claims about leaking swivel hubs. From this point on they had no level hole on the hub.
The grease is great if you don't do a lot of water crossings or the like. There is no way to remove the contaminated grease other than full dissassembly of the swivel hub.
If you do a lot of water crossings I would fix the leak and run oil.
John D
AnswerID:
220135
Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 20:20
Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 20:20
John,
Good point, I was assuming that Mr Range Rover would also of thought of that and designed the seals to take a certain amount of water attack, saying that look where the distributor is............ nuff said. The leak I have is a weep rather than drip if you know what I mean, so I'm struggling with the justification to strip the whole thing apart at the moment. I don't do a lot of water crossing but I do them occasionally, something worth noting. Thanks for the comment.
FollowupID:
480795
Reply By: Baldrick - Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 15:18
Tuesday, Feb 06, 2007 at 15:18
A good cure is to put Moreys in there. It's much stickier than the oil and won't worry if you get a bit of water in there.
AnswerID:
220176