Dual Battery - Advice please on basic wiring - new Patrol
Submitted: Saturday, Feb 10, 2007 at 22:13
ThreadID:
42184
Views:
3404
Replies:
5
FollowUps:
16
This Thread has been Archived
spliney
I currently own a 100 series LC running a triple battery setup - second battery under the bonnet and third battery on the CT via Anderson Plug. All properly set up.
My work car (
sedan) is due for replacement and the boss will put me into a 3.0L Patrol this time. I'm lucky enough to have private use. I'll probably hang onto the Landcruiser, but will definitely make plenty of use of the Patrol.
I won't be able to install a full-on dual battery setup in the Patrol, but would like to rig up basic wiring to charge the CT battery. (I'm reasonably handy, but certainly don't claim too great a knowledge of wiring.)
I envisage running a cable from the towbar (Anderson Plug), but do I run it back to the cranking battery or to the alternator? What would be the simplest solution? (My failsafe to protect the cranking battery will be to physically unplug it at the towbar when stopped.)
Thanks
Spliney
Reply By: Gerhardp1 - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 00:18
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 00:18
You need to install a Redarc in the engine bay, and run #8 B&S cable both black and red from front to Anderson plug.
I have this setup and it's excellent.
AnswerID:
221039
Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 05:25
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 05:25
Have you ever had the voltage drop checked with 8B&S cable at that distance ??
FollowupID:
481741
Follow Up By: spliney - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 07:17
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 07:17
Thanks for that Gerhard. Pardon my ignorance, but I always thought Redarc was a company - ie a brand name. What do you mean by "install a Redarc"?
Spliney
FollowupID:
481743
Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 07:27
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 07:27
The Redarc is a smart battery isolator, take a look here. One end goes to the existing battery and the other to the spare battery and a couple other connections and you're setup.
FollowupID:
481745
Follow Up By: spliney - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 09:14
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 09:14
Thanks for that Bonz. Not sure whether I'll be permitted to fit any add-ons. Will ask the question. What does one of these cost?
Regards
Spliney
FollowupID:
481761
Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 10:38
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 10:38
Hi Spliney, the redarc isolator will be around $135 (see E-Bay) and you will need an auto reset fuse as
well, around $5
If you are not permitted to fit any add-ons, you won't be able to fit an Anderson plug either. If you are allowed the Anderson plug, you are allowed the Redarc to make use of it?
Mainey there is no voltage drop to worry about with 8 B&S. 3 B&S would be better but not practical.
FollowupID:
481772
Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 11:15
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 11:15
I fitted
mine to existing holes under the bonnet on the passenger side, si I cant see a problem with a small addon like that, "Its really like a trailer plug arrangement" is what I would portray to our fleet coordinator.
FollowupID:
481775
Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 11:18
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 11:18
And I agree 8 B&S is 7.91mm2, thats a fair size cable
FollowupID:
481776
Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 11:25
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 11:25
I fed my cables through black garden poly pipe and then tied it all to the top of the chassis rail with strong cable ties. Also squeezed in the 5mm blue cable for the electric brakes, a bit of work and CRC required to pull it through but now nice and neat.
FollowupID:
481777
Reply By: Robin - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 08:17
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 08:17
Hi Spliney
I'm presuming you have no control over battery types.
The simplest is still just to run two wires direct from your battery to the Anderson plug at the cars rear.
It will work
well ,with wires no less than 8 sq mm or 8 guage.
Doing this will mean it is fuse protected by Patrols main 160A fuse.
Personnaly though I add another (> 80 amp) inline fuse as
well.
Robin Miller
AnswerID:
221058
Follow Up By: spliney - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 09:11
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 09:11
Thanks Robin
Appreciate the advice. The CT battery is a Deka 105AH Deep Cycle. The cranking battery will be whatever is supplied with the Patrol.
Re fuse - I presume inline on + side?
Many thanks
Spliney
FollowupID:
481760
Follow Up By: Robin - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 09:19
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 09:19
Yep
Inline near car battery on + side, and grab a spare fuse to.
Robin Miller
FollowupID:
481763
Follow Up By: Member - Rotord - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 12:57
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 12:57
If Spliney takes the simple approach and unplugs the Anderson plug after stopping , should he start his car before reconnecting the Anderson plug ?
FollowupID:
481782
Follow Up By: drivesafe - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 13:40
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 13:40
Hi Rotord, yes but only to stop the lower charged battery from draining the higher charge battery.
It wouldn’t damage anything just potentially waste a lot of power.
BTW, if you do parallel two batteries of dissimilar charge levels, the lower battery will not be charged by the high charged battery, it will just cause the higher charged battery’s power level to drop to the same as the lower battery.
FollowupID:
481785
Reply By: drivesafe - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 12:10
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 12:10
Hi Spliney, first off, take Mainey’s advice, 8B&S is way to small for long runs and will result in the trailer battery taking much MUCH longer to recharge and obviously, if you don’t drive long enough, it will never fully charge.
Next, never use fuses in high current circuits, circuit breakers go open circuit quicker that a fuse can, plus AC rules state that you can put higher loads on a circuit breaker protected circuit than you can for an equivalent sized fuse wire protected circuit and the principals are the same for either AC or DC circuits.
Last but not least, in the case of circuit protection, bigger is NOT better. Whether you use a fuse or a circuit breaker, both are designed to tolerate around 50% more current than the designated load for 1 hour or to put that in practical terms, if you fit an 80 amp fuse or circuit breaker, either device will allow 120 amp to flow through the circuit for about an hour before they go open circuit.
And the same device is designed to allow around 200 amps for about 5 minutes.
This is done deliberately to allow for the near dead short that occurs when you start a motor and some other high current devices. If they didn’t work this way, every time your fridge compressor started, you would blow a fuse.
Two 30 amp circuit breakers would give you all the protection and current handling you needed. Fit one next to each battery’s positive terminal.
Cheers
AnswerID:
221072
Follow Up By: spliney - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 14:54
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 14:54
Drivesafe
Thanks for that - some very helpful advice there.
If not 8B&S, what do you think I should use? (BTW, what is "B&S"?)
Regards
Spliney
FollowupID:
481793
Follow Up By: drivesafe - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 15:54
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 15:54
Hi spliney, B&S stands for Brown & Sharpe, this gauge was the forerunner to AWG ( American Wire Gauge ) and is exactly the same size.
B&S is used extensively in Australia, along with a number of other size indicators but B&B, AWG and G are based on the size of the cross sectional area of the copper in a given cable and the best indication of what the cables actual size is.
The other commonly used cabling size used here is Auto or Automotive gauge. You will often see cable marked as something like 6mm Auto but this type of cable sizing has nothing to do with the actual copper size but is the size of the whole cable including the plastic insulation and can mean that a 6mm Auto cable from one company may have more or less copper in it than 6mm Auto cable from another company.
Most reputable cable manufactures will mark their cable with both a Gauge indication and a copper cross sectional area size, like
“ 6mm Auto “ + “ 4.25mm2 “
or
“ 6B&S “ + “ 13.5mm2 “
Cheers.
FollowupID:
481800
Follow Up By: drivesafe - Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 16:01
Sunday, Feb 11, 2007 at 16:01
BTW spliney, the minimum size cable to run to a caravan or camper trailer would be twin sheathed 10mm2 cable but 6B&S which is 13.5mm2, would be better.
You can go up from these sizes if you wish, for quicker charge times, but at some point a line is reach where the cost and/or size of cable is giving you no significant advantage. This is up to each individuals own choice as to where this line is drawn.
Cheers.
FollowupID:
481801
Reply By: Mainey (WA) - Monday, Feb 12, 2007 at 11:58
Monday, Feb 12, 2007 at 11:58
Spliney, you posted; "I won't be able to install a full-on dual battery set-up in the Patrol, but would like to rig up basic wiring to charge the CT battery. I envisage running a cable from the towbar (Anderson Plug), but do I run it back to the cranking battery or to the alternator? What would be the simplest solution?
(My fail-safe to protect the cranking battery will be to physically unplug it at the towbar when stopped.) "
-> The SIMPLE (and cost effective) solution is, because you only want to charge the CT battery while you are driving, to run a battery cable from the CT battery to the EXISTING battery, Eg, wire the two batteries in parallel, yes, separated by the Anderson plug at the tow bar, and with a 'fusible link' of about 20amp max in the cable near the Cranking battery, reason being, your fridge will presently have a 10a fuse in it and you only want to safeguard the fridge system and a few lights drawing probably 2amp, and most importantly you state you say you will disconnect the Aux CT battery from the Cranking battery when you are stopped as a 'safe-guard' to stop the Cranking battery being fully drained by your accessories.
(which won't happen overnight anyway - IF you use a decent battery in the Camper Trailer to run the fridge)
Cable size should be the same or thicker than that presently used by your existing Alternator / battery cable, reason being it will now have to run about ten times the length as the original battery cable and still with-out getting any voltage drop.
I use 2B&S (32mm sq) but that's considered extreme by some, however it's my choice.
Do it once - and do it right.
AnswerID:
221210
Follow Up By: spliney - Monday, Feb 12, 2007 at 13:16
Monday, Feb 12, 2007 at 13:16
Mainey
Many thanks - appreciate your advice.
Regards
Spliney
FollowupID:
481940
Reply By: Muzzgit [WA] - Tuesday, Feb 13, 2007 at 00:15
Tuesday, Feb 13, 2007 at 00:15
Spliney, I would recommend using a Redarc solenoid. They are fairly small and you will never have to worry about connecting or disconnecting the CT, the redarc will do it for you, every time. The redarc "clicks in" when your starting battery is over 13.5v and "clicks out" when your starting battery gets below 12.5v
I would imagine having to disconnect the CT every time you stop and remembering to plug it back in would be a big pain in the arse.
AnswerID:
221340