Front Rotors

Excellent thanks Wayne

Do you still have to bleed the brakes if you use one of those calliper clamps to push it in from the start?

Well, yeah, i would be doing the whole system mate, an extra 20 mins or so and youll save yaself potentially having to pull the lot off again.....and itll feel nicer under the boot.....but you only have to bleed if you disconnect a line....air gets in.

wouldnt have thought you have to disconnect any brake lines to replace the rotors. I did my 4 Runner ones and nothing has to be disconnected.
To push the calipers back I just used a clamp.

It's already under the mark apparently that's why

Thanks Truckster

We are actually selling the car and I am only doing this to pass the roadworthy so the less I have to do the better

If you are doing the work you are responsible for the work and any consequences related to the work. Do the job properly and replace the brake fluid in the whole system if it has not been done in the last year or two. This gets rid of the condensation that collects in the reservoir and permeates through the system.

PeterD

Thanks for your reply

The quote I got from Midas was around the $700 mark and I nearly passed out when he told me. I will do a ring around I think but if it's around the price you said then I am not going to get my hands dirty

Common with the astra's, nine times out of ten will require new rotors everytime the disc pads are worn, absolutely ridiculous for a modern vehicle. I will never by a european car due to there high maintenance costs. Your lucky its not a V6 vectra cause when the steering rack shi#s itself out with motor to replace. As far as Midas go's I wouldnt take my dinky to them clowns. Dont ask long story but would never recomend them to anyone. Stung once never again. Steve M

I'm with Steve on this one Troll,took my Jeep J20 to them a few yrs back to put new boots on the back brakes, the knobs put them on back to front,could not beleive my ears & eyes when told & shown.Went back & they rafunded monies though.The so called workers/mechanics did not like doing this big job on a SATURDAY!!!
Never been back & i let every one know who is going to get work done there.They can only do exhausts.Hopefully.
Bob.

Hi there Kiwi Kia, not sure on the astra's but I know my commodore had abs and when I replaced the pads was a case of just push piston back in whack in new pads away I went again no problems. I have never filled up the brake fluid in any of my cars. No need as when you put new pads in fluid will come back up to correct level again unless you obviously have a leak then thats a different story eg rear wheel cylinders on the drum brakes. By not topping up as the brakes pads wear it stops you having to suck out any fluid prior to fitting either new shoes or pads and also stops any brake fluid spewing over and down onto the paint work and booster etc causing the paint to peel off. Not a sign of paint peeling off at or around my booster area and is now 18 years old. Still the same master and booster. I will normally change the fluid on every second set of pads/shoes depending on klms travelled. Steve M

Hi Stepen M,

The following ids from the UK Pajero forum;

this post is to warn all home mechanics about working on your brake system, particularly the 3.2di-d model but may well be relevant to other models with abs. I had the brake pads changed by my local mechanic on my 2000 model 3.2di-d, a simple enough job, but on the road test after 100 metres the abs fault light came on and buzzer sounded inside the car!
nothing we could do would cure the fault so it was time to call in our "ace on the inside" Ivor Green at solihull mitsubishi. the only possible solution was to get the car recovered back to his workshops for him to connect up to diagnostic computer! not wanting to bore you all with loads of trivia I will go straight to the results, "hydraulic brake booster" low pressure switch failed, MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY FLUID BEING PUSHED BACK UP THE SYSTEM WHEN PUSHING PISTONS BACK IN WHEEL CALIPER. Ivor has asked me to let everybody know that the flexi pipes at the caliper should be clamped and the bleed nipple cracked open to release the excess fluid as the pistons are pushed back in the calipers. to make matters worse we removed abs relays with the engine running to stop abs pump running constantly and this caused a voltage spike to render the abs computer unservicable! LESSON FROM THIS IS "DO NOT DISSCONECT ANY THING ELECTRICAL FROM BRAKE SYSTEM WITH IGNITION SWITCHED ON". now for those that are going to ask "how much?" new HBB is £1400+vat (non returnable to mitsu if its not the fault on pajero maybe on shogun) abs computer £544+vat.
lucky for me I knew where there was a crashed shogun and i got both bits for £270 cash.

Hi there Kiwi Kia, will have to check out with toyota if there is any issues with my wifes new toyota as it also has abs with added electronic brake distribution what ever the hell that suppose to mean. Interesting article, maybe I was just lucky with the commodore although I did ask my mate who is a mechanic and I just did exactly what he said as I wondered wether abs was an issue or not as I had never changed pads before on an abs equipped vehicle. Thanks for the tip and by the way I wasnt having a go at you or discrediting what you said just new that the commodore wasnt an issue but mind you after your post will be asking some questions to my mate as to wether he has really looked into how he is changing customers pads on there vehicles. Maybe this is an issue with all abs equiped vehicles and should be done the way as described above and not just a pajero thing. Thanks steve M

Hi Kiwi Kia, I was looking at Astra's the other day and it was pointed out that the standard model has 4 stud wheels and the ABS model has 5 stud wheels. Looking along the line of astra's they all looked to fit the info.

Cheers,
Jerry