Front Rotors

Submitted: Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:06
ThreadID: 42295 Views:2098 Replies:6 FollowUps:13
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Morning gang

How hard is it to replace front rotors? it's not for the truck but for the wife's Astra. It doesn't look to complicated but I have been quoted way to much for what it is I think

Any help appreciated
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Reply By: Wayne-o - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:16

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:16
not hard, just un bold wheel, caliper, rotor, replace rotor, caliper, wheel.....just replace pads too, pointless doing one without the other, oh then you bleed brakes! 1-2 hrs a side. Good luck
AnswerID: 221621

Follow Up By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:21

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:21
Excellent thanks Wayne

Do you still have to bleed the brakes if you use one of those calliper clamps to push it in from the start?
FollowupID: 482349

Follow Up By: Wayne-o - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 12:34

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 12:34
Well, yeah, i would be doing the whole system mate, an extra 20 mins or so and youll save yaself potentially having to pull the lot off again.....and itll feel nicer under the boot.....but you only have to bleed if you disconnect a line....air gets in.
FollowupID: 482364

Follow Up By: 944runner - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 16:12

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 16:12
wouldnt have thought you have to disconnect any brake lines to replace the rotors. I did my 4 Runner ones and nothing has to be disconnected.
To push the calipers back I just used a clamp.
FollowupID: 482414

Reply By: Kiwi Ray - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:23

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:23
Hi Troll 81
What is wrong with the old ones? They can be machined on or off the car to remove a buckle or hard spots.
Most rotors ( discs ) bolt on to the hubs. When fitting new rotors every thing must be absolutely clean and torquethe bolts to the rated or listed torque.
Clean the working surfaces before fitting the pads
AnswerID: 221623

Follow Up By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:26

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:26
It's already under the mark apparently that's why
FollowupID: 482350

Reply By: Truckster. - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:55

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:55
As Wayne says.. Pearce easy job.

While your at it, you can remove the CV's and give them a re-grease, adds about 45mins per side. You just need a few more seal to buy, and change diff oil while there.

No need to bleed brakes, but why not do it to refresh the fluid?
AnswerID: 221627

Follow Up By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:57

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 11:57
Thanks Truckster

We are actually selling the car and I am only doing this to pass the roadworthy so the less I have to do the better
FollowupID: 482358

Follow Up By: disco1942 - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 12:24

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 12:24
If you are doing the work you are responsible for the work and any consequences related to the work. Do the job properly and replace the brake fluid in the whole system if it has not been done in the last year or two. This gets rid of the condensation that collects in the reservoir and permeates through the system.

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FollowupID: 482362

Reply By: DIO - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 15:32

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 15:32
If you're not too sure about what you're doing, best get a mechanic to do it for you. I'm sure that there's not a motorist out there who doesn't want you or your wife barrelling into the back end of their vehicle - you with brake failure. You need to be careful with the Astra brakes, The pistons move on an adjustable screw and if you try and use a compressor to push them back in ....?? Compared to many vehicles, the original discs and pads on an Astra are of very questionable quality. It is not uncommon for the rear brakes to go though a set of pads in 20,000 - 30,000 kms which for a small vehicle is absurd. The discs won't last much longer either. Best to replace them with DBA when the time comes. They seem to be more suitable/appropriate. If you want to check out some owner's views on Astras and their brakes (amongst other things) have a look at COMPLAINTS LINK go to INdex, type in Holden and have a read. All very interesting. Most decent mechanics will quickly tell you of their opinion re the Astra brakes and their weakness.

My daughter had her front discs and pads replaced recently. Bendix Optima pads ($58.00), DBA discs ($126.00 pair) and labor ($45.00). Total $229.00 I reckon that's good value.
AnswerID: 221676

Follow Up By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 15:43

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 15:43
Thanks for your reply

The quote I got from Midas was around the $700 mark and I nearly passed out when he told me. I will do a ring around I think but if it's around the price you said then I am not going to get my hands dirty
FollowupID: 482407

Follow Up By: Member - Stephen M (NSW) - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 17:18

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 17:18
Common with the astra's, nine times out of ten will require new rotors everytime the disc pads are worn, absolutely ridiculous for a modern vehicle. I will never by a european car due to there high maintenance costs. Your lucky its not a V6 vectra cause when the steering rack shi#s itself out with motor to replace. As far as Midas go's I wouldnt take my dinky to them clowns. Dont ask long story but would never recomend them to anyone. Stung once never again. Steve M
FollowupID: 482427

Follow Up By: ZukScooterX90 (QLD)Member - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 20:28

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 20:28
I'm with Steve on this one Troll,took my Jeep J20 to them a few yrs back to put new boots on the back brakes, the knobs put them on back to front,could not beleive my ears & eyes when told & shown.Went back & they rafunded monies though.The so called workers/mechanics did not like doing this big job on a SATURDAY!!!
Never been back & i let every one know who is going to get work done there.They can only do exhausts.Hopefully.
FollowupID: 482483

Reply By: Kiwi Kia - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 15:52

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 15:52
I have never had a look at an Astra, does it have ABS ? Best way to do brakes on an ABS vehicle is to clamp off the brake line and open the wheel cylinder bleed screw before pushing the pistons back. This way you do not damage any of the ABS mechanism when you push brake fluid back up the line - very important on some Pajero's
AnswerID: 221680

Follow Up By: Member - Stephen M (NSW) - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 17:28

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 17:28
Hi there Kiwi Kia, not sure on the astra's but I know my commodore had abs and when I replaced the pads was a case of just push piston back in whack in new pads away I went again no problems. I have never filled up the brake fluid in any of my cars. No need as when you put new pads in fluid will come back up to correct level again unless you obviously have a leak then thats a different story eg rear wheel cylinders on the drum brakes. By not topping up as the brakes pads wear it stops you having to suck out any fluid prior to fitting either new shoes or pads and also stops any brake fluid spewing over and down onto the paint work and booster etc causing the paint to peel off. Not a sign of paint peeling off at or around my booster area and is now 18 years old. Still the same master and booster. I will normally change the fluid on every second set of pads/shoes depending on klms travelled. Steve M
FollowupID: 482430

Follow Up By: Kiwi Kia - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 21:36

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 21:36
Hi Stepen M,

The following ids from the UK Pajero forum;

this post is to warn all home mechanics about working on your brake system, particularly the 3.2di-d model but may well be relevant to other models with abs. I had the brake pads changed by my local mechanic on my 2000 model 3.2di-d, a simple enough job, but on the road test after 100 metres the abs fault light came on and buzzer sounded inside the car!
nothing we could do would cure the fault so it was time to call in our "ace on the inside" Ivor Green at solihull mitsubishi. the only possible solution was to get the car recovered back to his workshops for him to connect up to diagnostic computer! not wanting to bore you all with loads of trivia I will go straight to the results, "hydraulic brake booster" low pressure switch failed, MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY FLUID BEING PUSHED BACK UP THE SYSTEM WHEN PUSHING PISTONS BACK IN WHEEL CALIPER. Ivor has asked me to let everybody know that the flexi pipes at the caliper should be clamped and the bleed nipple cracked open to release the excess fluid as the pistons are pushed back in the calipers. to make matters worse we removed abs relays with the engine running to stop abs pump running constantly and this caused a voltage spike to render the abs computer unservicable! LESSON FROM THIS IS "DO NOT DISSCONECT ANY THING ELECTRICAL FROM BRAKE SYSTEM WITH IGNITION SWITCHED ON". now for those that are going to ask "how much?" new HBB is £1400+vat (non returnable to mitsu if its not the fault on pajero maybe on shogun) abs computer £544+vat.
lucky for me I knew where there was a crashed shogun and i got both bits for £270 cash.
FollowupID: 482501

Follow Up By: Member - Stephen M (NSW) - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 22:59

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 22:59
Hi there Kiwi Kia, will have to check out with toyota if there is any issues with my wifes new toyota as it also has abs with added electronic brake distribution what ever the hell that suppose to mean. Interesting article, maybe I was just lucky with the commodore although I did ask my mate who is a mechanic and I just did exactly what he said as I wondered wether abs was an issue or not as I had never changed pads before on an abs equipped vehicle. Thanks for the tip and by the way I wasnt having a go at you or discrediting what you said just new that the commodore wasnt an issue but mind you after your post will be asking some questions to my mate as to wether he has really looked into how he is changing customers pads on there vehicles. Maybe this is an issue with all abs equiped vehicles and should be done the way as described above and not just a pajero thing. Thanks steve M
FollowupID: 482536

Follow Up By: Member - Jerry C (WA) - Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 23:58

Wednesday, Feb 14, 2007 at 23:58
Hi Kiwi Kia, I was looking at Astra's the other day and it was pointed out that the standard model has 4 stud wheels and the ABS model has 5 stud wheels. Looking along the line of astra's they all looked to fit the info.

FollowupID: 482548

Reply By: Flash - Thursday, Feb 15, 2007 at 23:19

Thursday, Feb 15, 2007 at 23:19
To ANYONE who has an Astra or other similar European designed car (incl current BMW's.....)
If you have one of these you will notice two things regarding the discs:
Dirty filthy black wheels soon after washing the car
Rotor wear is arguably more than the actual pad wear.
To fix both problems chuck the factory pads- they are rubbish!

I fitted Bendix "Advance" pads and the result is almost no black crud (clean wheels even weeks after washing the car) AND almost no rotor wear!
The sooner you do it the better. I believe the original pads were designed to make money out of you!
AnswerID: 221997

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