<1998 Jackaroo advice

Submitted: Wednesday, Apr 09, 2003 at 11:53
ThreadID: 4312 Views:3215 Replies:2 FollowUps:5
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A friend of mine is looking for a 1998 onwards 3.5 litre, petrol, manual, 7 seater (they have four rug rats) Jackaroo. Anything to look out for, any advice and what should he be looking at paying?

Thanks in advance
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Reply By: Redjack - Wednesday, Apr 09, 2003 at 12:29

Wednesday, Apr 09, 2003 at 12:29
Usual 4wd checks, i.e hasn't been rolled or submerged. Check the A/C compressor isn't noisy and clutch is Ok, not juddering.
AnswerID: 17219

Reply By: Savvas - Wednesday, Apr 09, 2003 at 13:53

Wednesday, Apr 09, 2003 at 13:53
Hi Wombat,

Things to look out for are -

1. A common issue with the 3.5 V6 in 98/99 models is failed inlet manifold gaskets. Check for a rough idle and hissing around the area of the inlet manifold. This is apparently fixed in models from 10/99 and on.

2. The 5 speed manual can be noisy in 5th gear. This is a known problem and their is a rectification kit from Holden. Do a search on Exploroz. There are a few postings about it.

3. Wheel alignment is a pain on Jackaroos. But once it is right, they are fine. It would pay to get this checked by a 4WD specialist straight away, as it makes for more comfortable driving through improved steering stability. It also helps at the hip pocket through better tyre life.

4. On some Jackaroos, the larger of the two rear barn doors can sag. However, it's easily adjusted by removing the plastic trim on the inside of the door, loosening the two bolts where the top hinge is on the door and adjusting the door position. Beware, this is a two man operation and if you don't have the aptitude for it, then don't attempt it.

5. The 3.5V6 is a thirsty engine in stop/start commuting. Expect upto 20L/100km in stop start traffic. But get it out on the open road and it's a lot of fun to drive. Good amount of torque right through the rev range. Mine gets down to 11L/100km in freeway running.

Otherwise, get all the usual checks. Your friend should easily find an example that hasn't been offroad. These should be a good buy as they are generally quite a tough vehicle and can take some abuse. Get an NRMA/RACV/RACQ/etc inspection done if possible.

For market values, checkout http://www.drive.com.au/buy/market_value/main.asp orhttp://www.redbook.com.au

I'd personally try to get one of the widetrack models (2001 and on). Their ride is more comfortable than the previous examples and the rear sits 20mm taller due to longer coils in the rear suspension.

I have a 2000 Jackaroo Monterey and am really happy with it.

AnswerID: 17224

Follow Up By: Wombat - Thursday, Apr 10, 2003 at 13:34

Thursday, Apr 10, 2003 at 13:34
Thanks guys - appreciate the tips.
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FollowupID: 10815

Follow Up By: zoom - Friday, Apr 18, 2003 at 00:47

Friday, Apr 18, 2003 at 00:47
Hi Savvas

Am looking at a 3.2 Jackaroo or a 3.1td. Do you know much about either of them? My budget doesnt stretch to the later models, probably only to about 1996
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FollowupID: 11209

Follow Up By: Savvas - Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 08:04

Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 08:04
Hi Zoom,

I haven't had much experience with the older 'roos. But I do have a copy of an old Overlander magazine which has a "buying used" article on Jackaroo.

In general, no major mechanical troubles to watch out for. The petrol and diesel motors of that time were ahead of Paj and Forerunner in terms of power and torque. It's all minor "wear and tear" stuff -

1. Front torsion bars sag with high mileage. These can be replaced for around $500 a pair for good H/D units. Also factory shocks at the front don't last too long.
2. From '92 to '95, dust sealing was poor.
3. Steering can be vague on high mileage examples. Steering is also very sensitive to tyre choice. I have BFG A/T KO's and I find the steering is fine with those. It would likely be better with Bridgestone Dueler A/T's or H/T's.
4. Various cabin rattles. (The headlining in mine develops a drumming noise over rough bitumen. I need to remove a tonne of mouldings so I can glue it up properly.

Also look out for the items I mentioned above.
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FollowupID: 11241

Follow Up By: zoom - Sunday, Apr 20, 2003 at 15:46

Sunday, Apr 20, 2003 at 15:46
Thanks Savaas for the info. One more question not sure if you know the answer to - would either the 3.2 v6 or the 3.1tdi be up to towing a horse float and one horse? There is plenty of 3.0 v6 pajeros doing it and as you say they had less power than the 3.2 jackaroo so I am assuming they would be ok. I dove a higher km diesel the other day and it was ok but obviously worn, bit wayward on the steering and noisier than it should be. I looked up the specs on the 3.1tdi and I think it was only about 86kw so I am not sure if they would be up to the task.

My sister drives a 3.5 pajero and that tows like there is nothing there at all so maybe I would be better to spend the extra and get a 3.5 Jack?

Hope you can help - Thanks!
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FollowupID: 11264

Follow Up By: Savvas - Monday, Apr 21, 2003 at 19:14

Monday, Apr 21, 2003 at 19:14
Zoom.... It really is a case of what you can afford. How much does the horse float and horse weigh?

The pre-widetrack Jackaroos are rated to 2500kg towing mass, but only a 100kg ball load. The widetrack Jackaroos from 2001 and on, have a 250kg ball load rating. This might be a more important consideration for you than the engine.

If your budget can stretch to a 2001 model, I'd go for the 5 speed 3.0tdi. Don't worry about the power rating as it really only reflects the vehicle's ability to accelerate unladen. Torque is way more important when towing, and you will want to have a good spread of it across the rev range.

The 3.5V6 also has lots of torque (and it will shame the Paj no problem) but it will be really thirsty when towing.
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FollowupID: 11311

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