Removing diff from troopy

OOPS!! Nearly right, screwing the bolts in acts like a puller eh.

You got it Axle

thanks for your advice. I thought the puller concept only works when the cone washers are free?

sam_84h
Wayne has a good point there too , make sure it is the Diff before proceeding also if you do undo the stud nuts, be very careful not to over tighten them and snap one off, ass I did then the easi outs have to come out, also when you replace apply a small amount off Loc-Tite and recheck after about 1000ks

If you are sure that they are cone washers then I would go with a sharp whack on the outside edge next to the stud as Wayne says.

Thanks for your advice, the slack is definately, unfortunatly in the diff. the jack idea sounds good.

i still have the wheel on and the vehicles weight is still on the ground i assumed that was ok.

so you don't actually hit the end of the stud, but hit the 'axle shaft flange' or the actual hub itself?

Once again, thanks to everyone for their input.

Yep. Some free wheeling hubs also use the same things. A sharp tap immediately above on the outside edge and the cone washer will spring out all by itself. Use a bit of brass or alloy as a drift if you are nervous.

I do as Wayne does, and leave the nuts just hanging on so the cone washer doesn't go flying. But I work my way around the flange, one tap on the flange next to each cone - as you work your way around, the weakest one will pop - then continue around, and another will pop etc etc

Never never never hit the outer edge of the hub, Please learn from my mistake.

If you hit the outer edge, you will end up making the hole for the cone washers out of round, in doing so they won't sit properly and they will come loose over time and snap the studs and the locator pins, this happened to me on the way out of the Bungles.

I have been told by a Toyota mechanic to undo the nuts so as they are level with the end of the stud, then tap the end of the stud. They will pop out, then use the threaded holes like a puller.

Thanks for the advice Steve, I'll try that way next time. Interestingly enough, I think Toyota upsized the studs from 8mm to 10mm sometime in the recent past because breakages were common.

Hi Phil
Yeah they were common, as common as the hammer marks on the side of the hubs.
I've also seen the 10mm studs sheer, and guess were the hammer marks were.
If I ever took my trucks to a mechanic and was to see hammer marks on the side of the hub, I would make them replace the axles and at $600 I bet they wouldn't do it again.
Cheer Steve.

By the advice given above I now understand why my troopie (bought second hand) has these hammer marks. Sadly, it appears there are quite a few mechanical butchers out there.
Yet, the cone washers do pop, even if rusted in, if the correct procedure is used.
First: soak around cone washer with a dismantling fluid.
second: use a hammer and BRASS DRIFT to give a sharp blow to the end of the stud.
third: repeat second, working in a pattern around the studs until one pops loose. once that happens the adjacent ones pop easier.
Clean any rust from the cone and its mating hole before reassembling.

The other advice given, about using the screw threads and inserting screws to "force" the axle out just forces the cones tighter. I shake my head in wonder just why anybody would try that, it makes no sense at all if one takes the trouble to find out just how cone washers work.

Klaus

Boy o boy, ain't we getting some interesting opinions here !

There is NOTHING wrong with giving a sharp tap on the housing ! That is how you 'spring' cone washers outwards. If you hit the stud (no matter where you have positioned the nut), you risk damaging the threads.

The solid housing is the place to hit ideally using a drift as already mentioned. The diff housing is made of steel, the hubs are usually alloy and should be treated with more respect but use the same method of extraction. If you don't like someone using this method then you do not understand the engineering behind the design. Hammer marks on the housing indicate that someone did not use a drift tool.

To those who profess deep engineering knowledge and say don't tap the housing then what do you thing about the practice of having to 'squeeze' a diff housing out of shape to extract or fit a new diff ?

Guys,
I have a mate that was breaking the studs on the rear of an 80 with about 550 000 kms, the flat spots on the axle flange was the cause of this. I had my rear bearings repacked on an 80 by a Toyota dealer in Brisbane last year and the tradesman hit the flange and put flat spots on it. I have done the bearings twice myself and hit the end of stud method, no flats on flanges. I complained to head mechanic and he said hitting stud was better. They replaced both rear axles free of charge. If you must hit the flange use a copper hammer or drift.

Cheers Drew

Kiwi Kia
I replaced 1 diff housing 78 series and 3 diff centers 78 series 2 100 seires last year, I dont recall ever having to squeeze the housing out of shape to achieve this.

If you want to hit the out side of the hub I wont stop you, I will hit the stud on the end with the nut unscrewed to make a flat end.

If I have to replace studs, a couple of $$ each, If you want to replace axles $600 a pair.
Cheers Steve.