Removing diff from troopy
Submitted: Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 16:52
ThreadID:
43377
Views:
1992
Replies:
3
FollowUps:
15
This Thread has been Archived
sam_84h
The diff is starting to whine and its got that clunky loose sound when taking off, so I'm taking the diff out to get it re-built.
I'm having trouble getting the cone washers off the studs and out of the axle flange. the manual tells me to hit the end of the studs with a punch and hammer. I've been doing this for the last hour or so, occasionally stopping to add more WD40.
I know its hard work and it takes a fair bit of hammering but last time i did this to a similar vehicle i don't remember having this much trouble. Are there any tricks of the trade to get these things out or should i just keep hammering away?
Thanks for your help.
Reply By: Member - Axle - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:17
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:17
If its the same set up as a heavy truck, hit the centre of the axle and it should pop them back enough to be able to grab them with multi grips.
Cheers Axle.
AnswerID:
228147
Reply By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:17
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:17
No No No No , there are 2 holes with a thread in them , get same size bolt and wind them in , bit on one them in the other
AnswerID:
228148
Follow Up By: Member - Axle - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:22
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:22
OOPS!! Nearly right, screwing the bolts in acts like a puller eh.
FollowupID:
488930
Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:24
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:24
You got it Axle
FollowupID:
488931
Follow Up By: sam_84h - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:45
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:45
thanks for your advice. I thought the puller concept only works when the cone washers are free?
FollowupID:
488935
Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:53
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:53
sam_84h
Wayne has a good point there too , make sure it is the Diff before proceeding also if you do undo the stud nuts, be very careful not to over tighten them and snap one off, ass I did then the easi outs have to come out, also when you replace apply a small amount off Loc-Tite and recheck after about 1000ks
FollowupID:
488939
Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:26
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:26
Sam,
Before you remove the diff, is it the diff or uni's. A crook uni will also give a clunk when starting off.
I have always tapped the outer edge of the hub just above the stud and that usually pops the cone. Make sure that you leave
the nut on the end of the stud. Wind
the nut almost off the stud, and when the cone pops and launched into outer space
the nut on the end of the stud will stop it's flight.
I also wind up a jack and place it under the hub. That will make the hub solid and should make the cone to pop off easy
Wayne
AnswerID:
228150
Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:47
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:47
If you are sure that they are cone washers then I would go with a sharp whack on the outside edge next to the stud as Wayne says.
FollowupID:
488936
Follow Up By: sam_84h - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:48
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 17:48
Thanks for your advice, the slack is definately, unfortunatly in the diff. the jack idea sounds good.
i still have the wheel on and the vehicles weight is still on the ground i assumed that was ok.
so you don't actually hit the end of the stud, but hit the 'axle shaft flange' or the actual hub itself?
Once again, thanks to everyone for their input.
FollowupID:
488937
Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 18:22
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 18:22
Yep. Some free wheeling hubs also use the same things. A sharp tap immediately above on the outside edge and the cone washer will spring out all by itself. Use a bit of brass or alloy as a drift if you are nervous.
FollowupID:
488945
Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 20:47
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 20:47
I do as Wayne does, and leave the nuts just hanging on so the cone washer doesn't go flying. But I work my way around the flange, one tap on the flange next to each cone - as you work your way around, the weakest one will pop - then continue around, and another will pop etc etc
FollowupID:
488979
Follow Up By: Member - Steve T (NT) - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 21:03
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 21:03
Never never never hit the outer edge of the hub, Please learn from my mistake.
If you hit the outer edge, you will end up making the hole for the cone washers out of round, in doing so they won't sit properly and they will come loose over time and snap the studs and the locator pins, this happened to me on the way out of the Bungles.
I have been told by a Toyota mechanic to undo the nuts so as they are level with the end of the stud, then tap the end of the stud. They will pop out, then use the threaded holes like a puller.
FollowupID:
488988
Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 23:48
Sunday, Mar 18, 2007 at 23:48
Thanks for the advice Steve, I'll try that way next time. Interestingly enough, I think Toyota upsized the studs from 8mm to 10mm sometime in the recent past because breakages were common.
FollowupID:
489046
Follow Up By: Member - Steve T (NT) - Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 00:01
Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 00:01
Hi Phil
Yeah they were common, as common as the hammer marks on the side of the hubs.
I've also seen the 10mm studs sheer, and guess were the hammer marks were.
If I ever took my trucks to a mechanic and was to see hammer marks on the side of the hub, I would make them replace the axles and at $600 I bet they wouldn't do it again.
Cheer Steve.
FollowupID:
489049
Follow Up By: V8 Troopie - Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 00:42
Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 00:42
By the advice given above I now understand why my troopie (bought second hand) has these hammer marks. Sadly, it appears there are quite a few mechanical butchers out there.
Yet, the cone washers do pop, even if rusted in, if the correct procedure is used.
First: soak around cone washer with a dismantling fluid.
second: use a hammer and BRASS DRIFT to give a sharp blow to the end of the stud.
third: repeat second, working in a pattern around the studs until one pops loose. once that happens the adjacent ones pop easier.
Clean any rust from the cone and its mating hole before reassembling.
The other advice given, about using the screw threads and inserting screws to "force" the axle out just forces the cones tighter. I shake my head in wonder just why anybody would try that, it makes no sense at all if one takes the trouble to find out just how cone washers work.
Klaus
FollowupID:
489056
Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 07:50
Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 07:50
Boy o boy, ain't we getting some interesting opinions here !
There is NOTHING wrong with giving a sharp tap on the housing ! That is how you 'spring' cone washers outwards. If you hit the stud (no matter where you have positioned
the nut), you risk damaging the threads.
The solid housing is the place to hit ideally using a drift as already mentioned. The diff housing is made of steel, the hubs are usually alloy and should be treated with more respect but use the same method of extraction. If you don't like someone using this method then you do not understand the engineering behind the design. Hammer marks on the housing indicate that someone did not use a drift tool.
To those who profess deep engineering knowledge and say don't tap the housing then what do you thing about the practice of having to 'squeeze' a diff housing out of shape to extract or fit a new diff ?
FollowupID:
489059
Follow Up By: drewab - Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 15:18
Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 15:18
Guys,
I have a mate that was breaking the studs on the rear of an 80 with about 550 000 kms, the flat spots on the axle flange was the cause of this. I had my rear bearings repacked on an 80 by a Toyota dealer in
Brisbane last year and the tradesman hit the flange and put flat spots on it. I have done the bearings twice myself and hit the end of stud method, no flats on flanges. I complained to head mechanic and he said hitting stud was better. They replaced both rear axles free of charge. If you must hit the flange use a copper hammer or drift.
Cheers Drew
FollowupID:
489104
Follow Up By: Member - Steve T (NT) - Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 17:03
Monday, Mar 19, 2007 at 17:03
Kiwi Kia
I replaced 1 diff housing 78 series and 3 diff centers 78 series 2 100 seires last year, I dont recall ever having to squeeze the housing out of shape to achieve this.
If you want to hit the out side of the hub I wont stop you, I will hit the stud on the end with
the nut unscrewed to make a flat end.
If I have to replace studs, a couple of $$ each, If you want to replace axles $600 a pair.
Cheers Steve.
FollowupID:
489127