Winch battery lead shorting out

I have had a short in old cruiser, just what you described nearly happen to you, did happen to me and I'm also trying to figure a way to not have a big live +ve cable, and will probably have the winch cable disconnetted while not in use, there are 200 amp fuse (I don't think big enough) but take up lot of room.
I'll be watching this post with intrest my-self

Shane

I’m looking at getting my first winch and the issue of shorts of malicious damage has concerned me.

Something like this would work and it looks like a nice neat option:


Key Benefits & Features:
Up to 600 Amperes Continuous Rating for large diesel engines, high power output, and low heat generation
• 600 Ampere Continuous Rating - 70% higher than standard switches
• Accepts two 4/0 battery cables per terminal
• Luminous label for low light reading
• Ignition protected - Safe for installation aboard gasoline powered boats
• 0.870" (22.01mm) stud length to accept multiple cable terminals
• 1/2" (M12) Tin-plated copper studs for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance
• Tactile textures indicate knob position by feel only
• Case design allows surface or rear panel mounting
• Fits all Perko and Guest low amperage battery switch hole patterns
Specifications
• Inrush Rating: 0.25 sec (10 repeats)* 2,000 Amperes DC
• Cranking Rating: 9.75 sec (10 repeats)* 1,200 Amperes DC
• Intermittent Rating: 5 min (UL 1107) 900 Amperes DC
• Continuous Rating: (UL 1107) 600 Amperes DC
• Voltage Rating: 48 Volts DC Maximum
• Case Material: Reinforced Polycarbonate
• Terminal Hole Size: 1/2" (M12)
• Torque: 220 in-lbs.

Whitworths marine

There are some cheaper options too.
Site Link

Yep Captain me too.

Was negortiating a muddy creek when bullbar hit embankment. At that very moment the last bit of insulation rubbed through on winch cable. Instant short and instant total battery drain.

When I fitted my present winch I put one of those inline thingys with a key lock to it but was told via the Forum that the current rating wasn't high enough. Have since removed it. Have surrounded cables with plumbers foam in places.

Cheers

Some disconects just use a hand tight knob so you do not have to find a spanner.

It just making product cheaper Captain

Today most winches have just 4 soleniods to swap the fields but not long ago used to have 5.

The 5th being just to connect power.

I suggest mount 5th up near battery on short leads.

Actually I reworked my soleniod pack and placed whole thing right next to battery in Patrol. Meant also that relays were typically at over 1m from ground , and so stays more free of water.

Robin Miller

Captain,

This will not solve your problem but it might have some rethink about what winch to buy in the future.

The hydraulic winch that I have draws 2amps when under full load. The winch does have a down side, it is slow, and does cost more.
As for the battery cables, when I was running a electric winch I had the cables covered in convoluted tubing and and cabled tied so that they could not rub. Rubber grommets will also help if the cables have to go through a hole in the grill.

The switch that was in a previous post looked good and that might be the solution to your problem.

Wayne

I think your biggest prob is determining what size fuse you would require. I don't have a fuse or switch. I have all the cabling in split tubing to give a bit more protection than just the insulation and have rubber grommets through any holes the cables pass through.

Leroy

You cannot get fuses or fusible links that can stand the large current draw.
You'll also notice that the cable to your starter motor is also unprotected for the same reasons. The manufacturers are very good at routing cables so that short circuit of the starter cable is hard to do.

I have a simple solution. I leave the pos cable of my winch disconnected unless I'm going away on a trip where I might need the winch. It also prevents city low-life from pulling the cable out, connect it to your towbar and crushing the cab!!! I also have the winch cables well routed and covered in conduit.

I suppose this is definitely a prevention is better than cure job.

Even if you do fit an isolator of a relay, the first thing you know about a damaged cable is when you connect the power and there is a big blue flash.

Any sort of switching device isn’t going to stop the cable chafing.