Troopy Alternator Modification

Troopytrek
Never mind the other post with yje link, you won't learn anything there except crap from a mob of know-alls and Derek is excluded from that,
Go to my 4x4 webpage and scroll to the bottom, Remember this, my Alternator is not the standard unit , it is a heavey duty 130amp so I doubt your standard unit will be boiling batteries,

members.westnet.com.au/dtilley/4X4.htm

Troopytrek
Sorry ,, forgot your question , oh and that yje is meant to be THE still a little dark here yet .
The Optima battery is the yellow Top and cost $370 , I also had a lot of problems with normal batteries collapsing internally , shorting out , the cranking battery is a deep cycle also but is a normal type , next time it needs replacing I will fit a Optima Red Top .

www.optimabatteries.com.au/

Phil
I'm not an auto sparky mate, all I was told to do over the phone was just that , as for before's and after's I wasn't interested, all I wanted was to get the overcharge problem fixed, now when your on the road all the time as I am it becomes difficult when you buy a unit in Atherton NQ and have problems in Crystal Brook SA , I just can't go running back to the supplier like you blokes could , I did what he told me to do over the phone and it's been OK ever since,
As I stated this Mod would be if your unit is Heavy duty as mine is , this is the 2nd unit i've had to buy and it cost $350 at Roma , The first one lasted about 10 months.
What batteries were boiling you asked , well both of them , and as I said in the latest post since I cut the wire I have had no more problems , Don't even attempt to ask me why it works, just accept the fact that it does , and I'm happy about that , it was costing a b;oody fortune in batteries about every 6 months , I even had a CAT battery blowing smoke and fumes from the vent like a bloody dragon at Blackall , so there I had to fork out dollars again , .

Here is another hint for people having Blown Fusible links in the series 75, Mine kept blowing the link at Norseman, they replaced, poked,prodded, tested,for 3 hours, changed Alternater, and still blew the fuse,$200 handed over and left with the fault next day, called into Merriden Auto Elect' for 3 hours he replaced, poked,prodded, tested , finally he put a new Battery , problem fixed , the damn thing had a short in it , that cost me $630 and all it was , was a faulty battery , No problems now for 8 months .

Doug

Doug,
I'm not a sparky either, but maybe someone who is might be able to explain or confirm.

I'm guessing that the white lead is a voltage sensing lead, and that by bringing it back to the B-terminal, you are fooling the regulator into thinking that the battery is fully charged, and the regulator then drops the voltage a bit. I wouldn't do this to a standard 75series alternator, as it will slow the rate at which a normal battery recharges.

Re the fusible link problem - sounds like your upgraded alternator can put out more current than the fusible link is required to handle from a standard alternator. So I don't think that problem would occur on a standard vehicle.

Cheers
Phil

Phil
You got it ...yes thats what he said it was all about fooling the regulator into thinking that the battery is fully charged, and no not for a standard unit as I already suggested, When working we run a lot of lights etc,Headlights,2 beacons 55w, 2 wig-wags 75w , sometime flash driving lights 4 x 100w , then we have a fridge, a cooler, 2 CBs, Codan, 2 GPS's , Aircon + fan, inverter charging phone ,and music radio, all these items could be on at once at times.

the fusible link problem as I said was cause by a short inside the battery, Cheap crap ...see

Doug