Cape York Trip Planned......Experienced old bloke required for free advice

Submitted: Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 17:00
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I am going to Cape York in July this year and would love to find some people to chat to that have been there and back a couple of times maybe or have experience with different parts of the Cape in particular.

I have a rough idea of where and when we are going up there, I had started a rigid itinerary but scrapped that as I think it will almost certainly have to change with weather conditions. I am working out the places we want to see and rough travelling times between locations. We are going to keep much of our time open ended and will probably have at least a few days up our sleeves to spare, if we find a good fishing spot or something.

We have 3 and a half weeks to make use of up there, some say its too much and some say not enough. I tend to think no amount of time is too much but hey, we have to work sometime and the boss ain't gonna let us take months off.

So if anyone would enjoy to talk about their times up there, the do's and do nots of the place, that would be much appreciated.

Steve
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Reply By: Member - John H (NSW) - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 17:43

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 17:43
Three and a half weeks is just about perfect, Steve. A few years ago we took 3 weeks ex Cairns, and found it just right. Could have stayed a few days extra in many places if we'd had the time, but still had a rellaxing trip.
Not really as remote as you may think these days, unless you strike unseasonal rain, and there is plenty of help along the way, - you can get anything you need at the top.
Don't think there are any dos and don'ts particularly, just go and enjoy it. One thing's for sure, after this trip it won't be your last!
Feel free to ask any specific questions - I'm sur ethere are hundreds on this forum that can anser just about anything.
John
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Follow Up By: Chopper525 - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 18:00

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 18:00
Thanks John,

I'll no doubt have heaps of specific questions as time goes on....

Firstly, people have told me (usually people with something to sell me!) that I 'need' to upgrade my suspension no matter what, I have a 2003 model 100 Series diesel and think to myself that if that thing can't make it to the Cape there is something wrong.

I am going to make a late change thought o my vehicle, as I want to set a ute up, late I know but I am getting a 79 series and will put a Canopy etc on it and I'll probably fit a roof top tent or just buy an Oztent.

Also, what is the mozzie factor like? Will I need to get a mozzie tent or screen room etc?

Thanks heaps

Steve
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Follow Up By: Member - John H (NSW) - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 20:00

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 20:00
Those people are probably thinking of the main road - milliions of corrugations!
We travelled the Telegraph track wherever ppossible - better scenery, and less corrugations. A standard 79 will be fine. I towed a camper trailer the whole way - no problems.
Also, I knew nothing of alchohol restrictions and I'm sure we carried a little wine - no one ever asked!
You'll have fun

John
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Reply By: Steve63 - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 18:09

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 18:09
You have not said what your experience is so have aimed this at the lowest common level. We also travel very early in the season so there are rarely crowds of people. For July you will need to check with someone who travels at that time of year.

Have only been up there once. Will get there again one day. The Cape is no different to any other trip in tropical or remote areas. Dump the rigid itinerary idea unless you must book somewhere. It is a waste of time and just makes you try to do dumb things. Just know where you would like to go and stay flexible on when. It is pretty easy to spend 3-4 weeks there if you are not in a hurry.

Main points:
1) Roads can be rough so drive to the conditions. The mechanics up there are often busy because people insist on driving at 80 or 90 (or 130) because someone said they should even though 30 would be more appropriate.
2) Make sure you know ALL the alcohol restrictions in ALL the areas you are going to. It does vary from place to place. They do check and it is an expensive error. First offence is about $17,000
3) Be croc aware.
4) Cape is hardly a remote area these days but you should carry enough gear for 2-3 days.
5) If you are doing the OLT track you need a basic understanding of 4wding. It is hardly exteme for the vast majority of the track but you can get into trouble easily enough and would be daunting for a beginner. It is by no means a flat little track. Gunshot can be bypassed if you want. Take your time, look at each crossing carefully and you will avoid most issues.
6) If you are unsure of your skills go and do a 4wd course. They are usually well worth the money. In fact they can save you from doing a lot of damage to your vehicle.
7) Get a good map like the Hema map of the area. They are covered with useful information.

We stayed at Loyalty Beach instead of Seisia. It was pretty good as far as it goes. We used it as our base for a week or so while we went to the tip, Somerset Beach, Virylia point (?sp) etc.

Lakefield NP and Cape Melville were well worth the effort.

Weipa is only of interest if you are going to look at the mine or do some fishing though there supermarket etc is pretty good.

Would probably pass on Chilli beach. Check fiirst but the year we were there it rained on us with strong winds for 2 days. We found out later that it had been like that for three weeks! It was calm everywhere else.

Have a good trip.

Steve
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Follow Up By: Chopper525 - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 12:12

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 12:12
Thanks heaps for your reply there Steve,

What is the best way to find out about the alcohol restrictions?
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Follow Up By: Steve63 - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 12:37

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 12:37
We got the best info from the 4by show we went to just prior to going. I think there is a web site but I don't trust them to be current. We also got good information in Coen I think it was. You could try ther tourism Queensland or better still the Alcohol Management Program, ph: 1300 789 000.
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Follow Up By: Chopper525 - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 12:38

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 12:38
Cheers mate! Much appreciated.
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Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 09:36

Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 09:36
The best way to avoid problems (VERY EXPENSIVE ones too) with alcohol is to carry none at all.

Buy and consume what is for sale at your current location, as that is what's legal for that location.

There will be many who poo-poo this approach (you know, the "I took a barrel of Whiskey and didn't have a problem" mob) but I know a person who WAS caught and he is still bleeding and paying off the $30,000 fine.

We really liked Punsand Bay for a stay, and Somerset was also great.

There are mozzies and sandbased bities and midges, so make sure you have plenty of repellant.

You can happily sleep in a tent but make sure you can seal it off against snake ingress.
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Reply By: Chopper525 - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 18:26

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 18:26
Thanks Steve,

My experience is by no means vast. I am usually found on the beach at Moreton and Fraser and the like. As far as bush driving goes, if anyone is familiar with Mt. Mee State Forest, I have been through there a bit, and conquered most of the hills in there. I don't even know if that is considered extreme really, but I am not imagining anything much harder than that up the Cape. My be a little naivety creeping in?
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Follow Up By: CLC50 - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:29

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:29
Hi Chopper

Just spent 2 days in Mt Mee,Great area,Woodford to Dayboro to Woodford by Hwy58.

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Follow Up By: Mark & Jo, S/side, Bris - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 15:59

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 15:59
Another two locals... you boys will have to join us next time we have a gathering.. we try to be fairly regular with them.

Cheers
Jo
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Follow Up By: Chopper525 - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 17:20

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 17:20
Excellent, I am always keen to go and have a bash somewhere, as long as their is a destination and some food and 'cool treats' in there somewhere....
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Follow Up By: Mark & Jo, S/side, Bris - Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 06:38

Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 06:38
Well send me your email and I'll keep in comtact with you. Sometimes there will be a post for a trip, other times it is only via email run.
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Follow Up By: CLC50 - Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 07:35

Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 07:35
Hi Mark & Jo
Love to join you both on your next outing,if you can put up with a oldddddddd man.
I am putting together way points in the Condamine 14 Creek Crossings ,NSW

Regards

Colin
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Follow Up By: Mark & Jo, S/side, Bris - Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 13:17

Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 13:17
meant to ask... what area of town you guys from? we are at Brows Plains area.
The general of us are all within 15min to 1 hours travel of each other, give or take the odd few (Greg, Bruce and Anne) who are near 2 hours away.

Cheers
Jo
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Follow Up By: Chopper525 - Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 14:04

Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 14:04
I am Eatons Hill.

I don't know how to send messages in here to another user....Can you tell me how?
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Follow Up By: Mark & Jo, S/side, Bris - Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 14:28

Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 14:28
Eatons Hill. Wheres that? just click on members rig and profile, there you'll see 'send member msg'
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Follow Up By: Chopper525 - Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 14:35

Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 14:35
Bugger, I am only a visitor....can't send message
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Follow Up By: Mark & Jo, S/side, Bris - Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 14:43

Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 14:43
just email me jarsofclay@optusnet.com.au
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Reply By: CLC50 - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:23

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:23
Hi Chopper
This a link to one of the Qz forum members a great story & pictures .

link text
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Reply By: Grungle - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:28

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:28
Hi Steve,

Here is a link to a trip report that we did for our 2002 Cape Trip (can't believe it's been 5 years already) - http://www.mcs.net.au/~grungle/capeyork02.html. Also have our trip itinerary, meal planner etc listed. I have listed times as well where possible in the report of when we did things to give others a rough idea of travel times between places. Can be a bit monotonous in places but I found it invaluable from a mates previous trip where he did the same.

We also flew up with Qantas Link in 2005 as my Father is buried on TI and found it fantastic to fly over all the places we had travelled and camped which put it all into perspective.

If I can make one suggestion and that is to buy Ron Moons Books on the Cape. Really quite a valuable bit of kit.

Take it easy and enjoy yourself. I am thinking about doing the trip again this year as I really enjoyed it.

Regards
David
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Reply By: On Patrol (Aust.) - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:49

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:49
Chopper525

"If I can make one suggestion and that is to buy Ron Moons Books on the Cape. Really quite a valuable bit of kit".

Could not agree more with that, it's my bible for our trip in May this year.

Do a search on this forum for CAPE YORK and see what comes up.

Mostly get a few others involved and have a great time mate.
Colin.
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Reply By: Member - Dave A (WA) - Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:54

Thursday, Apr 12, 2007 at 19:54
After having lived in Weipa for 5 years and marrying a local girl ( who had grown up there and stayed for 30 years), there is a heap to see and do just in and around the Weipa area, pull up stumps at the local caravan park and use it as a base to explore some of the western side of the Cape.

Places that include Stones Crossing, Vyces waterhole, Janie Creek, Unegen nature walk and the mouth of the Pennefather River just to name a select few.
Crabbing, fishing, beautiful sunsets sitting on the beach at Gonbung beach or watching the world go by in the beer garden at the Albatross hotel

So much to see....... so little time.

Hope you have a safe and great trip (know doubt you will)
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Reply By: Sea-Dog - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 11:04

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 11:04
The off roading you do at Beerburrum and the Mt Mee area is far more intense than anything you will be running into on your Cape trip.. you really do have to go looking for hard stuff to do on the trip... Look at it more of a test of endurance for your car as the corrugations are the killer..

As far as grip and articulation goes it is generally only as you are popping out of creek crossings that you will find this stuff and on a general standing they are all pretty basic crossings anyway...

I would be looking at making sure your vehicle is up to scratch as far as tyres, bushes, springs, shocks etc etc goes... then look at how your camping supplies are laid out in your car.. you will find you are packing up and unpacking most days so you want it to be as easy and trouble free as possible... especially if you have the wife and kids along..

When we started planning the trip we had an itinerary and it didn't take long for that idea to go out the window.. instead as there were three cars we each did our homework on what we would like to see before we left and got a map to put down the points we wanted to see or do.. that gave the basis for the trip route.. anything else was a bonus!

The trip was fantastic and I would go again tomorrow money and time permitting.. enjoy and take the time to relax and take in the views rather than have the mind set of getting to the next location.

Cheers
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Reply By: Chopper525 - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 12:15

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 12:15
CLC50,

Thanks heaps for that link, that is absolutley awesome I love it, can't take it off my screen lol. Especially the video at Gunshot. I have only really seen pictures of that and to see the 4wd's actually taking it on is great. Although I saw a LEyland Brothers show or something like that and going the other way looks a little scary. HEHEHE.
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Follow Up By: Member - Steve (ACT) - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 14:42

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 14:42
As one of the guys on that trip, have to say it's the best one we've done! We did it in 24 days from Cairns to the tip and back, and already talking about the next time for the things we didn't get to do!

Have to say the friends we went with made it a fantastic trip as much as the 4wding!

We started by getting a map and circling all the places we wanted to see and then planned a very rough Itinerary around that with fudge days as well so we could spend more time at places we really liked!

And also have to 2nd the Ron & Viv Moon book or should I say bible, lots of great tips and information.

Have a great time
Steve ACT
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Follow Up By: Chopper525 - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 17:25

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 17:25
Steve,

Mate I thoroughly enjoyed reading through the pics and diary logs of that trip, I already have butterflies in my stomach thinking about going.......

How much did you crap your daks going through Gunshot? LOL

I have had that book of Ron and Viv Moon's for a few years amongst some others that I have collected since childhood, this trip has been a gunna-do for me since I was a wee boy, I am 28 now LOL, and finally just getting the finger out of my a.....

Steve

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Follow Up By: CLC50 - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 17:41

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 17:41
Hi Steve

The story & pictures are great . You all must of had a great trip ,I always have it in my favourites & as soon as any one makes a enquiry ,I pass the link on,I have done this trip once & I had a great Time my self.
Thanks for your story I have had the link since you posted it

Regards

Colin
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Follow Up By: Member - Steve (ACT) - Sunday, Apr 15, 2007 at 22:27

Sunday, Apr 15, 2007 at 22:27
Glad you've both enjoyed it! Have to say that all 5 family contributed notes, photos, videos, slideshows and then Ivan (also a member on here) put it all together as a website for us!

As for Gunshot, much to my wifes dismay I stuck my hand up to go first and we didn't get to see anyone else try it! So I was definitely nervous but there was enough adrenilin going to get me over the edge!! I think there are many parts of Cape York that we've all seen pictures of and to see them and drive them for the first time after dreaming about it for so long is fantastic!

Hope your trip is as great as ours was!

Steve
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Reply By: outbackers4 - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 21:38

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 21:38
Hi Steve,
Have never been to the Cape, but planning a trip up there aswell. Probably in Jul or Aug this year.
My only advise is: Lay out what you think you will need, the only take half of that. As alot of the stuff you think you need to live comfortably is too much weight. Secondly, but more importantly, do a 4x4 drivers course, with recovery. It is invaluable in most peoples cases, as it will help you identify your capabilities and the capabilities of your vehicle. It will also give you and understaning of track appreciation and vehicle / environment sympathy.
I strongly recommend a 4x4 driving / recovery course to anyone going of the beaten teck.
It costs us as tax payers millions of dollars each year to recover / rescue people who go out into the remote outback regions of Aust' unprepared, or ill informed.

Drop us a line if you wanna chat. We are looking for people to travel with on our trip.
I have a good knowledge of X country driving and recovery techniques and other bush skills (Driving Instructor in the Army).

Cheers,
Brad
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Follow Up By: Chopper525 - Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 23:23

Friday, Apr 13, 2007 at 23:23
Thanks Brad,

Yeah I hear ya bro, I have been thinking about it over and over in my head about vehicle weight, centre of gravity i.e how much on the roof, and not wanting to dig through crap i don't need to set up each day.

I have decided on a compromise vehicle set-up for this trip and each one hereafter. I recently went to Fraser for the first time in years and found that to go somewhere like Fraser and really check it out on a limited time frame, it would be good to move camp each day as I takes so god damn long to get around that place. Hence, I have decided to sell my 100 series and buy a 79 series, get a canvas canopy with a hardtop, and set up a roof top camper. I am aslo thinking of getting an OzTent but am leaning towards the roof topper. I am planning on having four boxes on the back of the ute. 1) A fridge, not taking an eski, going the 60 or 80 litre Engel with two zone extension, with cryo-vac meat. 2) Cooking Gear and dry food in another box 3) Tool Box and Spares in another box 4) General Camping gear in another box. Tarp and poles for when required etc

I am getting underbody tool boxes for recovery gear and gas bottle. I'll throw the fishing rods underneath the roof in a purpose built carrier, and install a big water tank under the tray. Still deciding what I will do for 240V, I will be taking laptop and camera chargers etc so I am trying to avoid taking the gen set, seems silly on a trip like that. A couple of chairs thrown in the back and I'll be sweet.

We are going on the 6th or 7th of July, coming home on or before the 30th July. There are three of us in two utes, have winches etc.

I am thinking I might be right for 4WD skills. Whilst I am not a seasoned veteran, the three of us who are going are workmates, we work for a Government sector that spends a lot of time off road, using winches etc I have a reasonable idea of what to do. I still might go and do a course though, you never can learn enough hey?

Steve
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Reply By: Strahan - Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 17:07

Saturday, Apr 14, 2007 at 17:07
We were there for the second time in August '05. First time was in '92. There have been a lot of changes since then. the main one I noticed was it was nowhere nearly as green as the first time. Dug out the old photos to compare and how much it has dried out is amazing.
This time we did it in a bog standard '95 dual cab Hilux. Had no problems at all.

Do as much of the Telegraph Track as you can . It is so much better than the main drag. The mian road now has 5-15km stretches of bitumen along the way north which come as a suprise!

places to go: Vrilya Point-really really nice, get water at chrystal creek just after the turn off. Drive along the beach right to the Point past the lightship wreck.

Mouth of the Jardine past Muttee Heads -great campspot, be croc aware -we did not see any but it looks like the sort of place they would love!
This is the worst mozzie spot we found. had to hide in the tent around dusk for an hour or so the it was ok.

Captain billys -nice camp nice beach nice walk. Easy road in

All over the top is good. We stayed at Loyalty Beach and Punsand Bay. Punsand is further out of town than you think!

The drive to Sommerset and down the east coast for a bit is really good day trip.

The big disappointment around here is looking for the WW2 wrecks. In '92 there were fences and plaques around the wrecks describing them and what happened. Now the fences are gone and the whole area is trashed.

T.I and Horn are worth a look. the tour on Horn is a must do. My wife was not at all interested in that sort of thing but she came away with a new respect for the things that happened in WW2
A great tour.

Chilli beach is great!! Both timees there has been beaut weather! Obviously check it before you go! There ia a short muddy section just before you get there that can be quite hard to get up if it has rained!
Portland Roads nearby is worth a look as well. there is water here from a tank near the beach.
We came into Chilli from the north across the Pascoe. The track was ok and the only tricky bit was the few meters into the river, very rocky. We had no probs. Along this track keep an eye out for motorbikes. Very popular along here and a head on is quite possible if you don't keep your wits about you.

Got so much info and could rabbit on for hours!!

PM if you need any more help!

Apart from all this its still one of the best places we have been. Planning our next trip there as soon as we can!!
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