Spotlight Voltage

Submitted: Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 19:27
ThreadID: 44468 Views:3329 Replies:7 FollowUps:8
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I've had a set of Cibie Turini spotlights on the cruiser for 12 months and have been pretty disappointed in them since putting them on (considering the price I paid).

I installed them with an IPF wiring loom so its all done properly. Now with the battery showing 12.54v and the engine off I put the multimeter onto the positive power leed to one light and I got 11.85v (light disconnected..just the plug). Is this too big a drop in voltage?? If so where should I be looking for a problem?? What voltage do ther people get at the light???

Hopefully its a cheap fix to get them working like they should...otherwise there gone and I'll get some Lightforce 240's I reckon. Anyone want a pair of Cibies for $300??
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Reply By: Andrew Kilby (QLD) - Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 19:59

Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 19:59
Testing the voltage with the lights off is not much use. The correct way to do it is with the light on. The volatage should be no more that 0.5 volt less that the battery voltage. A bad connection with no current flowing can still show a reasonable voltage as the current rises so does the voltage drop.

To test take your jumper leads or other suitable heavy cable and go directly from the battery to the light, idally to the bulb directly if that can be done.

The lights you have should be brilliant. i really believe you have a voltage drop problem. As an indication I use 6 mm cable for my lights and it is far superior to the bought looms.
AnswerID: 234297

Follow Up By: Member - outback2 (WA) - Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:10

Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:10
Concurr with Andrew 100%. Static voltage can be totally misleading..

As soon as there is a current draw the voltage can drop significantly to the extent that there is either under performance as in your case..or even to the extent that whatever device you are powering simply not working at all

Sometimes it can be as simple as the inline glass fuses making poor contact..they only rely on a soft spring at each end and even some bloom at the connections (there or anywhere) can cause lower or no current when there is a draw...I use all blade fuses and wont use those damn inline glass fuse holders at all

Failing poor connections not being an issure...then cable size as a problem is a good bet

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Follow Up By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 04:24

Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 04:24
thanks guys, I'll have a bit better look over the W/E with the multimeter.

The worst thing is that the H2 bulbs are an absoulte b**ch to put in the holders. The cable size should be fine as it is a $45 IPF wiring loom and it only has standard 100w globes.
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Reply By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:03

Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:03
Hows it going Hughesy,

Not sure that the voltage drop across your wire sounds bad , although its not something I measure every day : )

Seeing you have a meter try measuring resistance of the loom , should be less than 1 ohm for such a sort run ( although I own a really cheap meter that reads 1/2 ohm for just the test leads ! )

If you have a lowish reading for your loom maybe you have a bad earth for your lights , make some jumper leads and go straight from the negative of the lights to the negative of the battery .

Some trucks use V24dc , is there a posability you have the wrong lights.

Hope this helps you out .

Glenn.
AnswerID: 234299

Follow Up By: Member - Glenn D (NSW) - Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:25

Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:25
OK I'll just stop talking now !
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Follow Up By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 04:28

Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 04:28
Thanks Glenn. I know the bulbs are alright cause I had to buy a new one after smashing the reflector on one (ALWAYS BUY LIGHT COVERS!!). That was an expensive lesson.

I reckon you might be right about the poor earth or bad connection......just got to find it.....amungst all the other wiring that I've done under the bonnet ;)
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Reply By: Notso - Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:12

Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:12
Mate if the light isn't connected you should have full voltage at the plug.

There must be a major resistance in the system somewhere to drop the voltage that much.

Test the voltage from the positive plug directly to the battery earth and if that is still low you have a high resistance somewhere in the positive supply.

You can check the Earth return the same way.
AnswerID: 234305

Follow Up By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 04:21

Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 04:21
Thanks Notso. I'll go over all the wiring again this weekend and see what I can find.
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FollowupID: 495332

Reply By: Grungle - Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:13

Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:13
Hi Hughesy,

Do you have permanent power on one side and switch an earth through a relay to activate the spotties (sort of sounds like it by the description)?

If not (and I misread something) but you are checking the plug with your spotlights on (but not connected) with battery at 12.54V and you see 11.85V at the spotties plug (at the same time the battery is reading 12.54V) then you definately have an issue.

With no load connected (ie spotties), you should see the battery voltage at the spotties plug when you switch them on (0.1 - 0.3 of a volt lower still OK). When the spotties are connected, the battery voltage and voltage at the spotties plug should also be the same albeit lower as you are now loading the batteries.

Ideally the high beam activates a relay through a master switch that will apply battery voltage direct to the spotties providing a good earth return to the -ve terminal of the battery is there.

The most common issues in a situation such as this is wrong cable size (but you have a superloom), poor earth return (tech screw to body) or a poor connection (plugs, corroded terminals etc.).

Your multimeter is your best friend and a few checks will sort this out. Check resistance from spotty plug -ve to battery terminal -ve and also spotty plug +ve to battery terminal +ve (when spotlights activated and relay closed). This will diagnose a high resistant joint (poor connection). Should be 0.1 to 0.3 ohms max.

If it is correct then wire gauge could be too light and there is voltage drop. Connect spotty direct to battery (whilst in same conditions as your tests - ie engine off) and see if any brighter (take note of battery voltage though as you could have a crook battery as well and the load is dragging the voltage down). If so and providing the resistance checks were done then I would say voltage drop due to cable size.

There are quite a few things to check and I could keep typing for ages but start with those and see how things go.

Anyone else with suggestions?

Regards
David
AnswerID: 234306

Follow Up By: Grungle - Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:30

Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:30
I spent so much time on this post (slow typing) that it was already answered 5 times over ;-)

Regards
David
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FollowupID: 495246

Follow Up By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 04:20

Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 04:20
Thanks Dave. I'll break out the multi meter again this weekend and see what I can find. I reckon I'll check my earth first up......
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FollowupID: 495331

Follow Up By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Saturday, Apr 21, 2007 at 17:57

Saturday, Apr 21, 2007 at 17:57
Well Dave I broke out the multi meter again and did what you said. I had 1.3 ohms from the +ve and 0.3 from the -ve. Couldn't see where the issue was so I placed the probe on the +ve lead from the light at the point it attaches to the battery lug.....and got 0.4 ohms. So after taking the battery lug off and getting it all shiny and clean I finally got 0.4 at the battery terminal.

It was quite surprising cause the terminals were all clean and tight and there was no white residue but still enough resistance to create a full ohm.

I bought a set of 240 Blitz...probably didn't have to now.....it was my fault not the lights;)

Thanks again for the info mate.
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FollowupID: 495945

Reply By: samsgoneagain - Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:55

Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 20:55
cheap hid lights. i got a hid kit off ebay for 330$ and then bought a pair of ralley 4000 too. i put the hid kit in the ralley 4000 and there she is , hid driving lights for half the price
AnswerID: 234325

Reply By: atoyot - Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 21:45

Wednesday, Apr 18, 2007 at 21:45
I've had a pair of Turini spots on my 100 for 7 years, and apart from a few blown bulbs, they've been great. I was looking at Lightforce 240's back then but didn't like the idea of having a black spot in the beam. They may be much better now, but the Turini's back then were comparable with the Lightforce. Sounds like you have a wiring problem,

Andrew
AnswerID: 234342

Reply By: hiab - Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 00:42

Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 00:42
cibies, ancient history, get some rallye 4000, and see the light.
AnswerID: 234383

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