New Rodeo - lift kit
Submitted: Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 21:50
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coll964
Hi
Has anyone that owns an RA Rodeo put a lift kit in and if so what type ? Did you change the torsion bars or wind up the old ones ?? I am thinking of buying the new 07 Rodeo but would just like a little bit more ground clearance. Any info appreciated.
Reply By: Andrew-rodeo - Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 22:38
Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 22:38
I have an R9 rodeo, they're basically the same underneath, and have recently put in an Ironman
Suspension Kit. It was the 'performance' option which was about a 2 inch lift. It came with new leaf springs, new shackle and spring eye bushes, new torsion bars, new front and rear shockers, and a heap of stickers. It is easy to fit, i just did it in the driveway at
home.
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Follow Up By: Leroy - Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 22:50
Thursday, Apr 19, 2007 at 22:50
latest rodeo has rack and pinion steering and is unable to belifted as high as the old rodeo with the reticulated ball sterring.
Leroy
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Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 22:57
Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 22:57
What's the logic behind that?
If the front
suspension travel from bump stop to bump stop is able to be handled by the steering (as of course it is), changing the "rest" position up or down won't matter one iota.
Can't see what difference a rack steering makes over recirculating ball.
Difference between models would occur due to
suspension design - are you saying the rack steering requires a smaller arc of movement in the later model?
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Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 23:03
Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 23:03
Forgot to mention - had a drive of the latest 3.0 litre diesel auto last week. Engine pretty good, but very disappointed in the interior. Specifically, the dash looked as though it would fall off on a corrugated road, and the Auto shift lever felt like a joystick, and on closing the door a rattle reminiscent of Toyota doors put me off owning one.
Jumped back into the 9 year old Jack and was greeted by a solid door close with no rattle, a tight and solid feeling auto shift lever, and a dash that has been over thousands of ks of corrugatons and is still more solid than the new Rodeo.
I think the standards are slipping.
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Follow Up By: Member - Peter D M - Saturday, Apr 21, 2007 at 07:33
Saturday, Apr 21, 2007 at 07:33
cranking the torsion bars will allow a lift on any vehicle until you loose wheel alignment ajustment. all holden 4x4s including the jackeroo until the ra rodeo have a quirk of design that allows the ball joint to be re positioned from on top of to underneath the control arm. this allows a lot of lift with no tyre degradation.
both leroy and i have done this a few years ago and with the adision of a special spacer 50mm can be gained easily. you can go higher but you loose more downtravel.
have a look on your jackeroo and you will see about the ball joint. rack and pinion steering does not allow this.
regards peter
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Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Saturday, Apr 21, 2007 at 09:11
Saturday, Apr 21, 2007 at 09:11
Hi Peter
I thought about doing the ball joint flip but to get the best out of it you need to disconnect the sway bar as
well. I chose not to do the mod as the vehicle is then illegal and probably an insurance problem.
You have confirmed that it's not the steering type that affects the amount you can crank the rest position on the RA, rather it's the re-design of the
suspension. If the earlier vehicles had rack steering, you could still flip the joints. As you correctly point out, wheel alignment might be a problem.
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Reply By: Member - Peter D M - Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 06:58
Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 06:58
leroy is right. the rack and pinion steering does restrict the amount of "crank" on the torsion bars compared with the r9. but the ra does have longer control arms which means you get more lift for your crank. still not as much as the older models but an easy hight gain. i had no problems with wheel alignment after a 35 mm wind up and with 25 mm gain from bigger tyres. overall gain 60mm
i did not replace torsion bars and do not think it is necessary, new higher rear springs fix the back and some air bags to hold the gain are an advantage.
cranking the totsion bars does not damage or increase the load on the bar all you are doing is increasing the ride hight. in the usa some of the enthusiasts replace 4x4 torsion bars with 2x2 bars as they are not as strong/stiff, flex more and give easier wheel travel.
regards peter
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Reply By: coll964 - Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 10:01
Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 10:01
Thanks guys - just the info I was looking for.
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Reply By: gav99x - Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 10:28
Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 10:28
Unless you are adding more weight over the front wheels, you should not need to replace the torsion bars on any car in my opinion if you wind them up.
All you are doing by winding them up is changing the resting position, basically resulting higher ground clearance, more upward travel and less downward. There is no difference on the load or stress on the bar as far as I can see therefore no need for replacement.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Reply By: coll964 - Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 11:26
Friday, Apr 20, 2007 at 11:26
Peter D M - what size tyres did you fit ?? I was looking at 215/85/16's - do you know if these will fit ??
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Follow Up By: Member - Peter D M - Saturday, Apr 21, 2007 at 07:19
Saturday, Apr 21, 2007 at 07:19
i use 265x75-16 this gives an oa diam. of 810mm compared with the standard 245x70-16 oa dim 754mm.
215x85-16 is a very narrow tyre overal dia about 775mm? i have never seen one and i would think 235x85-16 oa diam. 810mm would be preferable. as a by all the paris/dakar rally cars run 235x85-16
regards peter
ps use the follow up option to contact other posters. and the search option will give more info.
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