Fitting ARB air compressor

Submitted: Friday, Apr 18, 2003 at 22:56
ThreadID: 4455 Views:4903 Replies:3 FollowUps:6
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Dear All, I am in the process of fitting a compressor to my GU Patrol. I have the set up that includes the loom for air lockers but at this stage Ijust want to wire the unit for the purpose of blowing up tyres. I was going to put the compressor on a bracket and get the auto spark to wire it. I find that now that I have looked at the wiring diagram and instructions I am almost there. I have two questions:
a. Am I right in assuming that the only switch I need to wire is the isolation switch to operate the unit? This will fit on the dash.
b. where do I access the nissan loom for connection to : i. ignition, ii. dash illumination?
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Reply By: Member - Cocka - Friday, Apr 18, 2003 at 23:53

Friday, Apr 18, 2003 at 23:53
Very satisfying to do it all yourself. There is a live wire that you can pick up off the back of the wiper motor that comes on when you turn the ignition on and goes off when you turn the key back to accessories. If you pull this power plug out you can test with a test light to establish the live supply wire, usually the blue one on the left.
However I would take a direct supply from the battery through the switch to the compressor. Establish a good strong earth to a bolt on the body or engine, best to solder suitable terminals to wire ends. Put an inline fuse along the power supply wire near the compressor.
If you want to use an existing power wire eg wiper supply, check the fuse size to make sure the compressor doesn't draw more amps than the wiper or that if they were to both operate at the same time it doesn't exceed the fuse amps.
Before installing the switch do a test run with a rough set up of what you want it to do just to satisfy your self that it will all work the way you want.
Keep all wiring away from hot and moving bits, use cable ties.
AnswerID: 17913

Follow Up By: albert - Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 00:53

Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 00:53
Cocka,
the wires for power are not the ones I am referring to: these are from the switch which actually takes five spade connections. One is live from the battery, two are earths, and these other two are labelled: to ignition and : to dash illumination. The switch has a small blue light on the face so I guess this may be for that but I don't know why we need power from the battery and the ignition!
Confusing me is not a big achievement. As an electrician I would be a good gardener.
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FollowupID: 11239

Follow Up By: Bob Y. - Qld - Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 07:39

Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 07:39
Albert,

Sounds like "they" want you to wire it so that you can only use the compressor while the engine is going, to prevent the obvious. If you're not over confident, then a sparky would be the go, and if he let you watch, then might pick up a few clues.

Only one change to Cocka's directions, the fuse should be as close as possible to the battery. Hooroo...
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FollowupID: 11240

Follow Up By: Member - Cocka - Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 09:43

Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 09:43
Yeah I see now that you want to use the air locker loom. That's why you have a light on the switch. If you are only going to do tyres at this point you don't need the switch light (you'll know if it's running). I'd make up a simple switch system as per my suggestion and put a switch (inline or mounted) under the bonnet near the comp. You are going to have to lift the bonnet to connect the airhose anyhow. And fit the fuse as BobY says. Just check the amps on the comp and make sure your wires and fuse are big enough. The wire thickness on the comp will be a guide.
If and when you get the lockers fitted "they" will wire up the loom as part of their installation job.
Where are you mounting the comp ??
I was looking at my 3l TD GU and am not sure yet if/where to locate it. The spare battery pad is ideal but I'm installing a battery there this weekend. I may look at separating the tank and comp & putting a larger tank elsewhere.
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FollowupID: 11242

Follow Up By: albert - Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 12:29

Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 12:29
Cocka,
my 2nd battery is in the cradle above L/H guard, behind that is a fairly light flat bracket which holds some cannisters which I think are related to emission compliance.
Between this bracket and the firewall there is room to locate a bracket which I made from some steel strap (about 1 1/2" x 3/16"),I have fitted the supplied mounting plate onto the bracket and it all fits in OK although fairly snug. I have seen the compressor mounted on the other side of the cannister bracket but it is quite light and I wouldn't think strong enough! Thanks for your help.
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FollowupID: 11245

Reply By: Kev. - Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 11:26

Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 11:26
Sorry Cocka, some of that was not good advice but saying that dosent mean it wouldnt work.

For anything that draws that kind of current should have there own circuit run to the fuse box or battery and not connected to something like the wiper motor.
You can't just change the wiper motor fuse to a larger one to run the compressor as well , the fuse is to protect the wiring as well as the wiper.

As said you must instal the fuse as close to the power supply to protect the wire from short circuit ect.

I dont want to sound mean but its important for people to do there electrics correctly as if there was a fault that caused the car to catch fire and burn to the ground and the insurance company found something dodgy they could void the payout!


Albert, dont forget to connect the power to the pressure switch fitted on the compressor tank.

Kev.

AnswerID: 17919

Follow Up By: Member - Cocka - Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 18:19

Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 18:19
.The principle of what you are saying is right. However the issue was defined (after an initial misinterpretation of what Albert was saying) into two parts. Run with the supplied switch and wiring loom that is for air locker use OR make up a simple circuit just to run the comp for inflating tyres. I think Albert understand this and knows his own electrical limitations. No one suggested putting in a bodgy fuse system.
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FollowupID: 11250

Reply By: Member - Darian - Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 13:56

Saturday, Apr 19, 2003 at 13:56
Went through all this a couple of years back .... works really well, but the detail is starting to fade...faras I recall, with the loom routed and plugged into the back of the supplied switch, you will get a blue light when you switch on. THE OTHER blue light in the switch needs to be separately supplied as a solo exercise from any part of the lights circuit. I just poked around till I found one that switched with the lights and then routed it through, separate from the loom. My switch is in the centre console with some other items (voltmeter / spots switch), so the lights supply was handy for those too. Mine is all off the aux battrery.Love the bush - stuck in the city - help.
AnswerID: 17926

Follow Up By: Jamie - Sunday, Apr 20, 2003 at 21:09

Sunday, Apr 20, 2003 at 21:09
I took the easy way out and got ARB to fit mine while they were doing some other stuff. They don't use the supplied plastic switch, simply instal a toggle switch under the bonnet as someone mentioned earlier. I also have the locker loom ready for when I win powerball! If you need more detail, let me know and I will have a closer look at mine. edwards@arach.net.au

Jamie
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FollowupID: 11276

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