Reefer

I think you will need another abttery, from what I can gather they are power hungry!

I think you will need another battery, they are fairly power hungry.

Hi Craig, I own a DTV90 Liemack, same fridge only bigger.
The fan does cut in and out and is a little noisy, it could be normal or if it is excessively noisy, it may have noisy bearings, the fan units are a cheap and easy to replace. My fridge has a seperate freezer compartment so if you set the fridge to say -1 deg C, the freezer will be about 6 degC colder, therefore freeze the contents, im not too sure of the setup with the smaller units like yours.
The fridge runs of an inverter and are very power hungry, you must have two batteries in parallel to keep the iunit operating through the night, it may be a little different with a 50 litre model but i must start my vehicle by about 10 am before the fridge goes to voltage cut out mode. I have two exide extreme batteries and cant get two days out of it. I basically get 18 hours from the batteries, If you want to camp for up to 72 hours without starting your vehicle, you have the wrong fridge. As for solar. i have no idea, someone else may have some infomation on that. They are a wonderful fridge, the temperature pull down rate is the best of any fridge, i have had it for 8 years no problem but they are very power thirsty. Above is based on a 90 litre fridge, so the 50 may have better results. Michael

Hi Craig

We have a 80L dual upright, almost three years old and have been very pleased with performance & until now have had no problems. It has been 12mths since last trip & this time the fridge wanted to run continuously so is at our local refrigeration mechanic for a service.
On the camper we have 2 lg deep cycle batteries hooked up when we are camped for more than a day & usually get 3 days before recharge (we also run lights etc). The fan can seem noisy in the peace & quite of the bush and does come on intermitently and more so depending on how many time door is opened, but this does not over concern us.
We usually set the control at -4, we find this keeps the icecream frozen at the bottom & the fridge part (top)ice cold.
We also recently hooked up an 80 watt solar panel but due to fridge problems this time round can't give an accurate account as to the total effectiveness, but I can say that the deep cycle batteries had drained of power and were not charged before setting off so the solar panel did give some input for the 3 days we were away.

Sharyn

ozcraig,
Your fridge has the new electronics package, this automatically turns the fan on/off to keep the electronics cool, as there in a Motor Driver in there that supplies the compressor power & also recharges your Aux battery system when on 240 Volts.

The fan will turn on intermittently and the noise is generally from the movement of the large amount of air, as well as the actual fan noise.

In an ST set the temperature control at anywhere below -7° and it will freeze, as the temp sensor is halfway up the s/s case, so the floor area will always be colder than the top section, the temp is an average of the entire cabinet.

I would leave the hystereses setting @ h5°, as this is only the difference between the on & off temperatures, keeping the numbers close keeps the fridge cabinet at a stable temperature.
Eg; When the fridge set to run as a freezer @ -1° the compressor will turn on @ -1° and off again @ -6° maintaining the 5° temperature differential.

The rotary compressor draws ~10 Amps, @ 20 min’s run time, ~33% duty cycle = ~3ah.
Running as full freezer may increase duty cycle & therefore also ah.
I use 70DT (fridge/freezer) with above results.

Yes, I use 200 Watt Solar system with success!
Yes, I use 2 x 100+ ah DC AGM's! in parallel.
Have never run out of power even though the 'auto disconnect' setting is set @11.5v

Hint, I can run my fridge from my inverter and it recharges the Aux batteries each night, I know that cause I wake up to 12.4v showing on the digital battery voltage screen.