1 for Roachie re LR sub tank fitting

Submitted: Friday, May 11, 2007 at 22:37
ThreadID: 45383 Views:1774 Replies:2 FollowUps:5
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I have almost completed fitting my Long Range sub tank on the GU (4wd systems).

Roachie you posted a reply to an earlier post of mine in this regard. I am just "playing around" with the sender to the gauge mechanism and wonder if you have any further clues before I close up the "hole in the floor".

I am thinking that bending the rod VERY high is the only way to get enough travel so that full to empty can be accomplished?

Have you found the answer? About to put the carpet and seats back so any ideas would be welcomed.

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Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, May 11, 2007 at 23:00

Friday, May 11, 2007 at 23:00
G'day Trev,

No perfect solution mate.....I bent the piece of wire to the same shape as the OE at the bottom end and fitted it to the float (after cutting the bottom bit off the original and discarding it). Then I held the whole thing beside the tank and tried to work out how long it had to be so that it would be "right". Then I welded it. Bugga!! I had the welder up too high first time and burnt straight through the wire. 2nd time was okay.

If I was doing it again, I wouldn't weld it. I would use 2 sections of what I know as "terminal strip". I'm referring to the strips of plastic that contain up to 10 or more steel sections. Each steel section consists of a small cylindrical bit about half an inch long, which has 2 grub screws polking out. These are used to join wiring together.

Anyway, I reckon it would be better to use 2 of those sections. I would put the original sender wire in one side and tighten up the 2 screws. Then slide the new bit of wire with the float attached, into the other/adjoining terminal strip section and tighten those 2 screws up as well. At least doing it that way, the whole thing can be altered if necessary.

Still, it's a PITA to get to the whole unit......carpet up, remove seat etc etc.

Hope this helps.

Good luck mate.

AnswerID: 239435

Follow Up By: Allan JJ - Saturday, May 12, 2007 at 07:29

Saturday, May 12, 2007 at 07:29
Don't the instructions show you how to do this?

I have seen instructions which had a pictue of the modified sender unit.

I have read somewhere that if you have your float to high from the bottom it will not pump all the fuel accross because the system shuts the pump off when it gets to empty

FollowupID: 500451

Follow Up By: Trevor M (SA) - Saturday, May 12, 2007 at 12:07

Saturday, May 12, 2007 at 12:07
Thanks for your tips Roachie!

It's all in and working. Your terminal strip idea worked a treat! I had some "big mother" (a technical term) ones in the shed which actually allowed both bits of the wire in the same connector side by side. I was cautious of your idea of using 2 terminals side by side principally because it would add weight and may have held the float down. I put the join high on the rod to minimise any added leverage effect). I also thought it may have thrown out the sideways alignment (there is a cutaway section in the surge chamber wall which allows the float arm to go past). Having 2 terminals would also increase the possibility of twisting.

For anyone else wanting tips, for wire I used an old style coat hanger. The wire in the older ones is thicker than what they use now and was almost the same thickness as the original arm.

Thanks again

FollowupID: 500500

Reply By: Grungle - Saturday, May 12, 2007 at 08:23

Saturday, May 12, 2007 at 08:23
Hey Trev,

We had the same dilemma when a mate and I did my 4wd systems LR sub. I cut the float arm and tried to weld an extension but what a PITA!. I ended up finding a straight bit of wire that was the same diameter as the OEM one and bent it to the exact same but 50mm (I think) longer in the straight section. Worked a treat.

I have a big problem with my sub tank pump though as I have stuffed 2 so far since fitting the tank 18 months ago. Don't know why they are failing but they fail pretty quickly after fitting another and pulling one apart cannot reveal the problem.
Usually fail with at least half a tank of fuel so don't know if it is heating up due to continuous pumping or it is getting air in the line which is creating friction and something is buring out.

The pump is not like a normal pump and has a sliding metal tube with a one way valve fitted to it. This slides in another tube against a spring with the whole lot surrounded by an electro magnet. There is circuitry inside the pump that pulses the electro magnet which causes a the one way valve to move very fast back and forth picking up fuel and 'pushing' it to the main tank filler.

I can't afford to get anymore so need to come up with another solution. I have connected the compressor to the breather line to transfer fuel in one case where we were desperate but I don't what to stuff the tank from too much pressure.

Roachie - have you had any problems such as the pump?

AnswerID: 239485

Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi B - Saturday, May 12, 2007 at 09:16

Saturday, May 12, 2007 at 09:16

Have no direct experience with your particular problem, but was wondering if the pump is capable of trying to transfer fuel when the tank is empty. This would involve a fairly accurate adjustment of the float travel. I guess this could only happen if the tank was run empty for a while.

Do these need to run the genuine Nissan pump or are there cheeper substitutes. Current draw would be the biggest thing to watch I guess.

Good luck,
FollowupID: 500464

Follow Up By: Steve63 - Monday, May 14, 2007 at 13:04

Monday, May 14, 2007 at 13:04
I had the pump problem you are talking about with a ARB subtank. The mechanic replaced the pump and mounted it on rubber gromets. Not sure of the details but apparently without the grommets the vibration during operation knackers the pump very quickly. The new pump was still working 5 years latter when we sold the car. Mechanic said he found out about it as the pump is the same as some road vehicle (can't remember which one) and it is common for the replaced pump to fail quickly if bolted straight on to the mount. Because it is a tight fit space wise it is not unuusual for the grommets to left off when someone is in a hurry.

FollowupID: 500906

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Monday, May 14, 2007 at 13:18

Monday, May 14, 2007 at 13:18
G'day David,

I'm almost too scared to say so for fear of jinxing myself...........but I haven't had any dramas so far.

However, in the event that I do suffer a pump failure, I wonder whether a Facet pump would work for this purpose. You can pick up a low pressure FACET pump for about $100- and I had one on my last truck (the 4.2TD). It was used as an in-line pump on that truck, so it didn't have to "lift" the fuel, as this one would have to (I presume).

There must be a better way.....

If it can to the crunch, I'd use the drain bung at the back and hook up a FACET pump to that and just pump the fuel across manually (ie: forget about the complex transfer system used by Nissan).

Cheers mate and hope you can solve it....

FollowupID: 500907

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