1 for Roachie re LR sub tank fitting

G'day Trev,

No perfect solution mate.....I bent the piece of wire to the same shape as the OE at the bottom end and fitted it to the float (after cutting the bottom bit off the original and discarding it). Then I held the whole thing beside the tank and tried to work out how long it had to be so that it would be "right". Then I welded it. Bugga!! I had the welder up too high first time and burnt straight through the wire. 2nd time was okay.

If I was doing it again, I wouldn't weld it. I would use 2 sections of what I know as "terminal strip". I'm referring to the strips of plastic that contain up to 10 or more steel sections. Each steel section consists of a small cylindrical bit about half an inch long, which has 2 grub screws polking out. These are used to join wiring together.

Anyway, I reckon it would be better to use 2 of those sections. I would put the original sender wire in one side and tighten up the 2 screws. Then slide the new bit of wire with the float attached, into the other/adjoining terminal strip section and tighten those 2 screws up as well. At least doing it that way, the whole thing can be altered if necessary.

Still, it's a PITA to get to the whole unit......carpet up, remove seat etc etc.

Hope this helps.

Good luck mate.

Roachie

Hey Trev,

We had the same dilemma when a mate and I did my 4wd systems LR sub. I cut the float arm and tried to weld an extension but what a PITA!. I ended up finding a straight bit of wire that was the same diameter as the OEM one and bent it to the exact same but 50mm (I think) longer in the straight section. Worked a treat.

I have a big problem with my sub tank pump though as I have stuffed 2 so far since fitting the tank 18 months ago. Don't know why they are failing but they fail pretty quickly after fitting another and pulling one apart cannot reveal the problem.
Usually fail with at least half a tank of fuel so don't know if it is heating up due to continuous pumping or it is getting air in the line which is creating friction and something is buring out.

The pump is not like a normal pump and has a sliding metal tube with a one way valve fitted to it. This slides in another tube against a spring with the whole lot surrounded by an electro magnet. There is circuitry inside the pump that pulses the electro magnet which causes a the one way valve to move very fast back and forth picking up fuel and 'pushing' it to the main tank filler.

I can't afford to get anymore so need to come up with another solution. I have connected the compressor to the breather line to transfer fuel in one case where we were desperate but I don't what to stuff the tank from too much pressure.

Roachie - have you had any problems such as the pump?

Regards
David