Bash Plate upgrade

Submitted: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 10:35
ThreadID: 45786 Views:4453 Replies:5 FollowUps:4
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Just as well I checked under the vehicle prior to hitting the blacktop after several days in the Little Desert National Park. Sand had packed between the bash plate under my 2005 Hilux and all the stuff it is designed to protect above it, blocking all potential ventilation flow.

Part of the problem is the plate being so deformed from bouncing off rocks in the Victorian High Country, leaving very little gap between it and the sump etc; I probably should have straightened it out months ago, as the plate is only light panel-thickness material.

And therein lies most of the problem, the plate is just not up to the task I am asking of it and requires a serious upgade.

Can anyone share their upgraded their lux bash plate info with me? I had thought around 4 or 5mm mild steel would do the job and I would probably not worry about the large cut-outs for sump oil drainage etc; just remove the plate each time when changing oil.

I assume the slots near the front are critical for air flow although they tend to act as sand scoops. Perhaps drilled holes would do; certainly a lot stronger. I have an estimate of around $300 to have the plate laser cut and bent to shape at a local fabricators, if I supply a drawing and drill the holes.

Maybe someone knows of an off-the-shelf supplier for the latest diesel lux. All comments welcome thanks.

Cheers,
Shep
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Reply By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:13

Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:13
Mate ...if your not into rock climbing etc take it off, I took it off my Troopy, easier to check/add oils , allows more air flow around the area in summer, and it's not there to gather sand and spinifex , plus the weight of it has gone,

Doug
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AnswerID: 241815

Follow Up By: Member - Paul S (VIC) - Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:22

Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:22
Thanks Doug, but I think I'll stick with a plate for sump and tubing protection. As you probably know, there is not a lot of clearance under my model and we do enjoy the rocky tracks of High Country.

regards,
Shep
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FollowupID: 502770

Reply By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:23

Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:23
Paul

I did a similar post on this some time ago. You might be able to search for the post. There are a couple places around that do off the shelve plates for Patrols so I guess the same would apply to your Hilux
AnswerID: 241817

Reply By: Member - Troll 81 (QLD) - Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:32

Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:32
I found it search for post id 39730
AnswerID: 241818

Follow Up By: Member - Paul S (VIC) - Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:50

Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 11:50
Thanks Troll, I had already checked TJM and got a negative. Not too sure who Brown Davis is but will check further.

Cheers,
Shep
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FollowupID: 502774

Reply By: Member -Signman - Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 15:23

Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 15:23
Any good rally prep. shops around your way ?? Could have a good sump guard made up with either Duralium (HT Aluminium) or Aust1050 steel. But it doesn't matter how good a 'bash plate' is- if you're gonna whack something hard, it will bend or buckle. I tend to treat underbody protection as a 'skid' plate- not to crash over rocks, rather slide over them.
On our Rodeo (just sold) we had a carbon fibre/kevlar laminated sump-gearbox-transmission etc protection. Had seen some harsh service, and only had a few scratches on it.
Am currently designing similar device for Troopy. It'll start jump at the bottom lip of the bull bar, and extend (in 2 pieces) to the back of the gearbox. Very light and very strong.
AnswerID: 241854

Follow Up By: Member - Paul S (VIC) - Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 16:36

Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 16:36
G'day Signman, I agree with you on most counts and I had considered Bisalloy plate which is a quenched and tempered steel plate and due to its hardness will not dent or deform like mild steel. But probably an overkill and is not readily available from your average fabricator/laser cutter and more difficult to drill/bend etc.

Have not heard of Duralium but is most probably a T6 tempered aluminium and will need to be very thick to have the strength of even mild steel. K1050 is just mild steel with a little extra carbon, 0.5% instead of >0.2% and low tensile.

Not sure about the carbon fibre/kevlar, in what form is it purchased and can it be formed? Also do you intend providing ventilation through this material?

Thanks for the suggestions, you have got me thinking along more lateral lines.

Regards,
Shep

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FollowupID: 502822

Follow Up By: Member -Signman - Thursday, May 24, 2007 at 08:50

Thursday, May 24, 2007 at 08:50
Hi Paul
I make a 'dummy' skid plate out of 3 ply timber first. Get all the angles & attachment point organised. Then add some reinforcement & use the dummy as the mould. Lay up the materials, with laminates of carbon fibre & kevlar, adding a bit more thickness around the attachment points and strengthening ribs. Vacuum bag cure the whole lot & there you have it.
When it's all cured- I then drill the holes for attachment. Cut out holes for oil drainage (engine & g'box). Cut a few lateral slots in the leading edge for cooling.
Have a good day !!!
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FollowupID: 502992

Reply By: Andrew-rodeo - Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 20:37

Wednesday, May 23, 2007 at 20:37
You can buy an off the shelf item from holden that fits VT-VX commodores with factory fe2 suspension, i got one for my rodeo, it doesnt fit but is an excellent starting point. I think it cost about $110 and comes with bolts and captive nut to mount it. They are about 4mm mild steel.
AnswerID: 241928

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