Tyre Bead Retention Glue
Submitted: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 at 13:28
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Beast of Bodmin
While out in the slop last weekend (at 15psi), l had a problem with tyre rotation on the rim. End result is a punctured tube at the valve stem.
Talking to a few tyre guru's, it seems there is some 'glue' called beadsealer that is generally used on rusty rims etc.
I'm going to try and use this glue to seal the Simex JT2 bead to the new & shiny Dynamic brand rims l have just bought.
Have any of you guys tried using this product to prevent tyre rotation on the rim when running low pressures?
I thought about Silkaflex or silicone but am afraid to use in case l cannot break the bead in the bush. Silkaflex is amazing stuff!
No need to mention external beadlocks, secondairs etc as funds won't allow that.
On the more technical side, club mates running low pressures in tubeless tyres tend to break the bead rather than spin the rim inside the tyre. I wonder whether my tubes & glued beads will work better as there is a large bonded surface area and the bead is in a shear condition with a better resistance to peel due to the tube locating the bead on the rim. The tubeless guys are less likely to have good results as they are putting the bond into a peel condition.
Any thoughts.....................
Cheers
BoB
Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, May 29, 2007 at 15:46
Tuesday, May 29, 2007 at 15:46
I've had friends do the same with their split rims at low pressures.
With tubeless, I mark the tyre with a dob of paint next to the valve stem, so I know when a tubeless tyre has rotated, and if I want to, I can break the beads and rotate the tyre back to maintain balance. But its not often that that happens - I don't fang the vehicles as much as I used to.
Beads coming off rims is related to experience. I haven't seen mud for a few years, but when a bead comes off the rim in sand, its pretty simple to jack the wheel up, clean out the sand and reseat the beads with the rim on the vehicle.
AnswerID:
243206
Reply By: Scoof - Tuesday, May 29, 2007 at 17:33
Tuesday, May 29, 2007 at 17:33
B B
Do you really have to go that far down in pressure.
The reason I ask is when I was racing speedway we never let our tyres down any more than about 16- 18 ( cold ) PSI on the rear(drive ) because just by trial and error we found the tyre to rotate on the rim and have the same trouble as you.
But at 16- 18 PSI we had no probs.
You may have already tried this but if you havent give it ago it cost's nothing.
Cheers.. :-)
AnswerID:
243245
Reply By: Member - Vincent A M (NSW) - Tuesday, May 29, 2007 at 17:38
Tuesday, May 29, 2007 at 17:38
Ok this is not the Glue bead Breaker, but This glue will work great/
well
Remma tip top SC2000 it is a 2 pack how ever if you what to change/ repair the tyre it can be a real problem as the tyre is bonded on
To fit
1) lightly sand the rim & tyre section (steel or alloy)
2) clean sanded areas with solvent
3) paint thin coat on both surfaces & let dry
4) 2nd coat paint on wet and fit tyre inflate allow 12 hrs to dry & of you go
to remove
1) good luck
2) heat tyre & rim to hot to touch (not air gun) & peel tyre away (becarfull as the rubber may peel away from bands on the tyre as it will be stuck to the rim
I use to do this on the rear rims on my 6 wheeler as on sand the rear would be at 5 psi & prone to peeling of the rears, I never have a problem changing them but i have seen it tear a tyre to bits
AnswerID:
243248