1HZ Tappet Adjustment

Submitted: Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 21:39
ThreadID: 46710 Views:11990 Replies:7 FollowUps:13
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Going to have a go at adjusting the tappets on my 99 HZ cruiser. How do I get the tappet adjusting shims out for change ? All - Any advice on proceedure apreciated.
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Reply By: Member - 120scruiser (NSW) - Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 21:50

Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 21:50
You will need the special tool to compress the buckets so the shims are accesible. The only other way is to measure them and then remove camshaft.
AnswerID: 247154

Follow Up By: nuboy - Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:22

Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:22
Anyone happen to know the inlet / exhaust valve clearances, cold for the 1HZ Cruiser motor in inches and milimeters
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Follow Up By: Off-track - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 00:37

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 00:37
Two large flat tip screwdrivers (or similar) to push down the bucket while the wife uses a magnet to pick up the shim. Can be done by yourself like this but difficult without 3 hands.
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Reply By: nuboy - Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 21:58

Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 21:58
Thought this may be the case.
Toyota have quoted $260 labour + $20 a shim + what ever time is involved in shim change if required + maybe a rocker cover gasket ?
AnswerID: 247157

Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:40

Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:40
Just had my Troopy Valves reset plus gasket $429.00 No shims needed , Prosser Toyota at Gosnells WA
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Follow Up By: nuboy - Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 23:04

Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 23:04
Yeh Thanks Doug, Toyo Mandurah wont $20 a shim, Rockingham $20 a shim, Mellivle $16 a shim, would your no shims needed mean $429 to remove rocker cover and check clearances only - no adjustment necessary ?
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Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 02:09

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 02:09
nuboy
Yes that is correct ,
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 09:14

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 09:14
Some workshops do not replace the shims. They machine them down to obtain the correct clearance.
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Reply By: Stu050 - Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:44

Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:44
Have a look through here.

Site Link
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Reply By: Member - reggy 2 (VIC) - Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:52

Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:52
hi nuboy
just a thought it might be best to bite the bullet and let the desiel mechanics( not in particular toyota) do the job as it could end up costing a lot more if down track somthing goes wrong
cheers reggy2
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Follow Up By: Stu050 - Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:57

Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:57
Agree. Don't want it to sheet itself west of the ponderosa somwhere.
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Follow Up By: nuboy - Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:59

Friday, Jun 15, 2007 at 22:59
Starting to get the same sort of feelings Reggy, could be the way to go ?
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Follow Up By: dandy - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 00:58

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 00:58
yes it can be done with to screw drivers shims are about twenty dollars each. easy to check hard to change.
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Reply By: jon p qld - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 07:31

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 07:31
Did mine a couple of months ago, bit the bullet and bought the tool $170 from toyota. I considered the risk of damage to the buckets and the difficulty not worth the risk of trying to use screwdrivers. I reused a couple of the old shims in different spots and needed to buy 7 new ones. Toyota wanted $25 each I got non genuine ones from a local engine reconditioning company for $5 each. The tool part # 09248-64011 well worth the money when you consider what Toyota charges to do the job.
Regards Jon
AnswerID: 247188

Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 09:14

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 09:14
We did the same in our local 4wd club, cost $20 each for the tool, then it got passed around, any spare shims went in the box, very rare that anyone had to buy shims after the first go round as there were spares in the box.
Interestingly most were done within 30 -40k of new and all were found to have a lot especially exhaust valves way out, usually tight. Setting them correctly resulted in much smoother running engines and better response from throttle inputs.
We also found that once they were done initially they rarely needed redoing until very high k's. You can check them every 100k but they usuallyonly need redoing around the 150 - 200k mark.
Regular 5k oil changes and good quality oil actually made a difference to shim wear and having to reset them when compared between the engines. Those that only did 10k oil changes and weren't fussy on oil (used anything!) found that they needed doing at about 60 -70k intervals.
We also did a comparison on air cleaner elements, some used oiled foam and others used washable Tojo ones, by 100k the foam users burned more oil on long runs, interesting!
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Follow Up By: ross - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 10:47

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 10:47
Thats pretty well exactly what my mechanic told me. They tighten up from new and dont need doing again for 100000 or more.

He also charged me a hellava lot less than some of the above figures
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 09:17

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 09:17
Nuboy,
I'd suggest that you get a Gregory's workshop manual, remove the rocker cover, and measure the clearances yourself. That is an easy job.

If any of the clearances are outside the specs, then you'd need to get them done by a workshop. But its quite possible that your clearances are OK.
AnswerID: 247195

Follow Up By: ross - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 10:50

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 10:50
Thats probably why I got charged a $100 instead of $400+
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Follow Up By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 13:26

Saturday, Jun 16, 2007 at 13:26
Ross sounds like you have an honest mechanic too. Would have been very easy for him to charge the $400 odd and you'd be none the wiser that it never required any adjusting.
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Reply By: Mikee5 (QLD) - Sunday, Jun 17, 2007 at 17:34

Sunday, Jun 17, 2007 at 17:34
Hi Nuboy, the naysayers are having a field day, same as they did when I asked the same question. I made my own SST similar to a really wide bladed screwdriver out of 25 mm flat steel and used this to push down the bucket (by wedging between underside of cam and side of bucket). Pull out the shim with a magnetic pickup. They may stick a bit because of the oil film. The bucket has an opening on one side, make it is facing the right way before depressing. Don't take the camshaft off. Measure at least twice and do the calcs carefully, write everything down from 1 through to 12. I have a copy of a spreadsheet from LCOOL which does the calcs. I had to buy 2 shims as some that I took out were right for other buckets. Go for it if you have a moderate level of mechanical klnowledge.
Mike.
AnswerID: 247474

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