3” exhaust with 80 series 1HZ + DTS turbo
Submitted: Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 14:56
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Hi All! Planning to upgrade exhaust system and looking to pick up some wisdom here. Is anyone have done it? Biggest problem what I have so far is - stock exhaust run over frame in two
places – before and after muffler. Before muffler it looks very OK, but after somewhat funny – even stock 2” pipe been squashed - forget to squeeze 3” here. So as far as I can see there are two solutions – run pipe below frame (looks quite ugly and appears that it could interfere with hoses here) or terminate exhaust immediately after muffler and point it down (i.e. exhaust finishes under car). All positives here – shorter (and cheaper!) pipe without ugly corkscrew section found in stock one – hence even more flow. Do I miss anything? Any suggestion/comments would be greatly appreciated.
Regards.
Reply By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:44
Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:44
Hi mate,
I fitted a turbo to our 1HZ about 2 years ago and left the standard exhaust. The performance increase was great but I have now fitted a 2.5" Mercury Mandrel bent system and it is better still. I wish I had put a 3" system on but I did not think it would go over the chassis bar. The 2.5" goes over easily without being squashed and now I find out that the 3" also goes over. They have a slip joint at that spot and the fitting is easy. You have to cut the old one off to remove it.
In short, get it fitted and you won't believe how much better the engine goes without any fuel down side. Use only a paper air filter, not a foam one.
Send me a member message if you need anymore info.
Ian
AnswerID:
248105
Reply By: Member - Tony J (NSW) - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 20:49
Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 20:49
OK, I have an 80 series STD 1HZ with a DTS (now MTQ I believe) turbo. I built and fitted a 3" mandrel exhuast myself. If I was to do it again I would only fit a 2.5" exhaust. I ran
mine from the turbo, down the fire wall then between the gearbox/tranfer case and the chassis rail (*very* tight fit), a hot dog type of muffler, then over the rear axle and out the back. My flexi joint is between the gearbox and chassis rail. Couldn't find a 3" dump pipe to fit the turbo at the time so had to manufacture my own. I did need an very slight 'squash' of the pipe where it crossed over the rear axle, to avoid an occassional rattle. If fitting a 2.5" wouldn't need this. The reason for going between chassis and gearbox was to make fitting of
rock sliders to chassis easier and better. I believe MTQ now offer a 3" exhaust. It may be possible to buy the dump pipe only from them. They didn't offer exhaust when I did
mine.
I did
check around for prices. Beadesert Exhaust said because
mine was not a standard Toyota turbo they'd have to build the dump pipe and that pushed the price up. The factory fitted turbo and the DTS turbo have different exit angles. Others offered a 2.5" fitted for around 4 - $500.
Beaudesert want at least $880 for the 3". Mind you, this was 3 years ago.
Now, I found the 3" gave heaps more low down torque over the standard exhaust and muffler but no more kilowatts. This is general *feeling* only, no dyno. Tested before and after on some steep hills near where I live. Didn't help on acceleration or top end, but as I said, a fair bit more torque down low. From talking afterwards with exhaust specialists, a 2.5" would have given the same results without the fitting hassles. By the way, the cost to do it myself (paying retail prices for the bends and the straight pipe, flanges etc without the labour and time involved) turned out to be about the same as most of the quotes I first got to supply and fit. Would I do it again? Not bloody likely. Heaps of trial and error, lots of time required and saved bugger all. But I did have the satifaction of doing it myself. (I have a mig).
Just food for thought
Tony J
AnswerID:
248153