Tyre pressure & type with slide-on camper

I think for a start, you need to consider A/T tyres for the Kimberly. Gives you a bit more rubber between the rim and the road.

The Kimberly region has plenty of stones and depending on what time of the year, a lot of corrugations.

As far as tyre pressure, its a bit difficult to recommend a certain pressure. A lot depends on your driving style/speed. I would start around 45 for the black top, a see how the ride is. Hit the dirt and drop to 38-40, and once again look at the tyres and ride feel. I run 36-38 in a wagon, loaded and towing a Coota Camper.

I know exactly what you're going through, I had a Heaslip on a Land Rover 130.

The basic problem is that the Heaslip is very heavy, I always doubted their quoted weight of 500kg dry. I reckon it's more like 650kg.
BTW I now have a Utility Camper on a F250.

First trip I did with the Heaslip I wrecked three BFG AT's. I then went to Michelin LTX. I was running 45 psi on bitumen and 35 on fast dirt. Slow sand 20 and slow rocky stuff 25. The LTX is a brilliant tyre, expensive. and about to be phased out.

What ever tyre you get make sure you are at least a 120 load index which equates to 1400kg load per tyre. You don't say what tyre size you are using, but I would be wary of anything too wide.
Finally I think you want as much sidewall height as possible. This allows maximum tyre sidewall deflection for a given inflation, so you can get the most comfortable ride.
Hope this helps.

I Feel that the cab chassis might be bottoming out on the bumpstops and then forcing stones etc through the poor old tyres, Insufficient wheel travel under load eats tyres up!

I have a 2004 patrol st coil cab with a heaslip as well, the pressures that I run on front 40 psi rear 50 psi, when I hit a dirt road or go offroad I lower the presures by 15psi and to date have had no problems, I have changed tyres from originals and fitted 10 ply at coopers as they have a high load rate and will carry the weight with no problems. Hope this helps.

Punctures are punctures ... but impact damage from stones is another matter, sidewall damage from stones or staking is another... it is important to assess the situation fully.

I'd suggest the following:

1. without the camper on, assess how much the tyres are bagged out at optimum inflation
2. maintain that amount of bagging (which will be just a little) when assessing the inflation required for bitumen
3. on gravel roads, remember that the make up of the roads makes a difference to what inflation you need - you will want to reduce it for the following reasons:
- corrugations, for a better ride
- rough edged gravel and rocks - you will want to reduce it so that there is more give in the tyre than when fully inflated. To not do this can knock around your tyre more.
- reduce your speed a little to match as this reduces the load on the tyre.
- pay attention to how much bagging of the tyres you need in what conditions and adjust the tyre pressures where necessary the first few times you stop
- remember to reinflate when back on the bitumen
4. on sand and rough rocky conditions for increased traction you will want to reduce it more.

How much is your essential question - well that depends on the tyre you have, and the actual loaded weight of the vehicle as it translates to the front and rear axles, and the detail of the conditions you encounter. It is the bagging of the tyres that is important, not the actual pressure, although clearly the higher the load on a tyre, the more likely damage.

Nobody who gives you actual pressures without knowing the detail - I don't care who they are, is doing anything but giving you a guide. Take it with a pinch of salt. Then pay attention to your vehicle; your tyre conditions and the road conditions, and you will soon learn what is appropriate for you. It takes a lot less time and money to stop and adjust your pressures than to replace a tyre.

Cheers
Andrew.