My Desert Meanderings

Submitted: Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 18:04
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Hi all - I've been back for 2 days now after almost 4 weeks in the bush. I had a great time and am happy the way things have gone.

I'll summarise the trip which includes reference to Rudall River, Talawana Track, Windy Corner, Patience Well, Nipper Pinnacle, Gary Highway, Eagle Highway, Ngarinarri Claypan, Wiluna, CSR, Carnarvon Ranges, McPhersons Pillar, Lake Blair, A Significant Aboriginal site, Alfred and Marie Range and Warri Well.

Forgive me if this dribbles on a bit.

The first section I was by myself and left Perth for Newman on Saturday 9th June. Camped near Paynes Find and got a donga at Capricorn Roadhouse before arriving Newman to do some last minute purchases on Monday morning. Then north east along Marble Bar Road and east along Balfour Downs / Jigalong Road which was in good condition. The track east was good with a few sandy patches until Talawana Creek. From Len Beadells plaque the road gets corrugated but nice views of the sandridges. I took the 28km short cut road into Rudall River National Park and camped near Tjingkulatjatjarra Pool.

I headed east on the track that runs parallel to the river. There is very good views here of the surrounding detached hills and breakaways. After the track leaves the river is becomes a little used spinifex track and I followed it all the way into Cotton Creek were I purchased some diesel for $2.65/l. As I was heading once again to the Talawana I noticed 3 or 4 Aboriginal Smokes in the distance. These were visible for some way to the east. The Talawana east of this area is very corrugated. Camped at Well 24 on the CSR.

Headed east again. Where the track leaves the CSR is deteriorates and is overgrown in some sections. Went to the centre of the Connolly Basin Crater, and Windy Corner on the Gary Highway. In this area I would keep an eye out for Carnegies "Stony Banks", his 5 September 1896 camp and pointer to Patience Well which I hadn't found by the time I camped about 20kms north of the corner.

After looking at some breakaways a kilometer or two north of the Patience Oil Well Track I visited the Oil Well which was decomissioned. From here to the south now I would be travelling "Off Track". To the immediate south and beyond I performed several unsuccessful traverses, on the lookout for any signs that would indicate the position of Patience Well before camping. I spent most of the next day looking as well before giving up.

I then proceeded to head south east as I wanted to claim the Confluence of 24S 126E which I arrived at the next day. Then I visited and camped at Nipper Pinnacle. This was a rather isolated feature that I had been eyeing off on the maps for some years now. There was no signs of anyone ever being there, though there was a grinding stone in the spinifex some hundereds of meters away which I only noticed by accident. I left a message with my details and reason for being there in a sealed plastic container and put it amongst a pile of rocks I had brought to the summit for just that reason. Nipper Pinnacle is a three tiered granite outcrop which is at the southern end of an unnamed breakaway range of which I fully encircled. There were animal tracks around but I could find no water.

I determined to make it back to the Gary before sunset. I would have made it had I not coathangered the ute on a small sandridge just west of some unnamed hills halfway to the highway. This was a time I wished I had diff locks but had the ute jacked up on two sides and free after about 45 minutes of swearing and cursing. I arrived at McDougall Knoll 15 minutes after sunset. My rear number plate is still in this area somewhere.

In the morning I thought I would give it another shot at finding the Stoney Banks whilst I was on this side of the Patience search area. These I found and was very excited at the time too. Without going into detail this find significantly reduces the size of the Patience Well search area. Another time though, as I headed south to cut the Eagle Highway and camped at the intersection.

The Eagle Highway had no signs of recent tracks. Some sections were completely overgrown and it would be easier to drive adjacent to the track. I saw 5 bush turkeys in this 66km section. At the next intersection I had to spend some time clearing vegetation from around the ute. I headed south and visited Ngarinarri Claypan where I spoke to Willem on the phone after finding one of his cards there. South now, still down the Eagle, where there were camels, emus and cats seen along the way. Camped on the Gunbarrel highway.

Now into Wiluna where I stayed Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday nights. My brother Gary will fly in Monday morning to join me. I might add I stayed out of town at Gunbarrel Laager Travelers Rest as advertised here and I found Gill's and Mal's hospitality wonderful. Breakfast too!! Spent the spare time doing minor chores on the ute, restocking etc.

I wanted to visit the Cararvon Ranges to the north so Friday I started up the CSR and camped at Well 4B. That night Donkeys Stampeded about 60 metres from camp and the noise was louder than the Melbourne Richmond Afl game on the radio. In the morning went as far as Pierre Spring (Well 6) before heading west on the track to the Cararvons. The Carnarvon Range is very beautiful and has been unspoilt. I went down every track leading in. Went to Goodcamp Rockhole. There are two unnamed ranges north of the Carnarvon Ranges and I headed towards them on a track. The first 500 metres is very rocky. I visited Talbot Rockhole which he visited in 1908 and has the inscription on the rock face to prove it. And Virgin Springs where spring water leaks out of the mountain and runs down the smooth faces. I climbed this mountain and got good views of Mount Methwin and Mount Salvado and Lake Kerrylyn.

Next day along the Neds Creek Station track to Johnson Cairn then into Wiluna.

Monday I picked up my brother at the Airport and headed east where we camped at Carnegie Station. Next day we arrived at Everard Junction and headed up the Gary Highway and camped about 15kms north of the Young Range near a big tree. Then onto McPhersons Pillar. The goal from here would be to try and attempt to get to the Alfred and Marie Range perhaps via Lake Blair. The first two hours was thick bush but we made it to Lake Blair to camp. The lake had water but was far from full.

From Lake Blair we headed east to investigate some outcrops in the distance. Then an old track was crossed which I followed to a rockhole. This rockhole was a depression in the surrounding rock surface and had some water in it. There were birds everywhere. In the distance I noticed what at first glance was a white anthill. Upon investigation a white rock, such as one from a river many kilomtres away was protruding upwards maybe one and a half feet high. At its base was Mulga branches within which there were 4 to 5 rain making boards surrounding the base of the monolith. These looked antique and would have taken many hours to carve to such detail. I also found a small stick weapon and a ceromonial stick discarded nearby.

We approached the Alfred and Marie Range from the north hoping to drive south parallel to the eastern side of the range. Once again the bush was very thick and it was slow going. We went a fair way out east of the range to avoid the thick scrub before coming in to camp in a small almost textbook, valley on a creek near the highest point of the range. I explored the area on foot but I could find no water. I looked to the east to where Giles had first seen the range and the view was most desolate.

The next day our goal changed. We were heading towards Mount Cox when we crossed a track heading north south that had been graded maybe 3 years ago. We thought we would see if it would keep going to the Gunbarrel Highway and thus give us more time to look for Warri Well north of the Young Range. This track went as far as a lake east of Lake Gruszka when it ended. There was a solar powered water supply there which I think a mining company may have left. Now we looked for a track to the south but the tracks went from the lake east of Lake Gruszka eastward which I thought may have been an extension of the cleared line to the west on some maps. We camped on the shotline on an easting which was further east than our camp in the Valley last night.

Next day we eventually got out of our entanglement of old lines, bush etc and came out a few kilometers west of Mount Beadell on the Gunbarrel Highway. There was significant wildlife at the lake east of Lake Gruszka. We camped on the Gary Highway that night at the Young Range ready to try and find Warri Well the next day.

We went in first to the Warri Well on the map and found nothing. Then had a look at Mount Colin and the other hills at the end of the range before going on a bearing of 318 (with 4 degree variance epoch 1896) for a few miles to try and find the well. We did not find it, and camped on the spinifex flat.

The next day, after one final pass of the search area we headed back to the Gary, Gunbarrel, and made our way to Windich Rockhole, just off the David Carnegie road. The rockhole was maybe 60 percent full. We camped another 20km down the road. The next day we made it to Empress Spring where we both went down to the third chamber to the water. Its pretty cramped in there and I drew blood twice on my head from the sharp adjacent rocks. Then we went out to the Great Central Road and stayed at the motel in Laverton. The Explorers Hall of Fame was a nice surprise.

The trip concluded by way of Menzies, Pidgeon Rocks, Windarling Mine and Kellerberrin.

10 punctures were had all in the off track sections. 2 were borderline sidewall on the same tyre but this tyre is still servicable. All others were in the tread. I'm pretty happy with the Coopers.

Total kilometres was 6793 consisting of Off Track 483km, Station Track 215km, Good Dirt Track 1316km, Blacktop / Good Gravel Road 2593km, Poor Condition / Slow Track 2068km, Overgrown Track 118km. A total of 75956 track points were collected along the way.

Was a great trip and now back to work Monday to start the grindstone.

cheers

Alan

Looking for adventure.
In whatever comes our way.



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Reply By: Mike Harding - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 18:26

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 18:26
Nice report - sounds like a great trip, thanks.

Mike Harding
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Follow Up By: equinox - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:13

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:13
Thanks Mike

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Reply By: Kev M (NSW) - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 18:54

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 18:54
Alan,

Willem posted a week or so ago I think, about your phone call to him after you found his business card.

Sounds like you had a great trip.

Cheers Kev
Russell Coight:
He was presented with a difficult decision: push on into the stretching deserts, or return home to his wife.

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Follow Up By: Kev M (NSW) - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 19:05

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 19:05
I found the post,

Site Link

Kev
Russell Coight:
He was presented with a difficult decision: push on into the stretching deserts, or return home to his wife.

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Follow Up By: equinox - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:15

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:15
haha - sounds like I didn't quite get my locations communicated properly

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Reply By: Member - bushfix - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 19:41

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 19:41
aha, still it evades you Alan....

great read indeed. dipping m'lid to you.
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Follow Up By: equinox - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:16

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:16
yes Bushfix, but getting closer :)))

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Reply By: Wazza - (Vic) - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 20:42

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 20:42
"Forgive me if this dribbles on a bit..."

Mate, an inspiring report. Thanks for putting in the time to write it up.

Wazza.
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Follow Up By: equinox - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:16

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:16
Thanks Wazza, no problems

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Reply By: Richard Kovac - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:32

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:32
Good report and trip by the sounds of it, just been Ozi & Google earthing the trip after watching the Eagles loose .. LOL

regards

Richard
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Follow Up By: equinox - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:43

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:43
Thanks Richard. I watched the game as well :((
And don't worry, (after reading that other thread) you'll get to go away on a remote trip one day!!!

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Follow Up By: Richard Kovac - Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:51

Saturday, Jul 07, 2007 at 23:51
We are going out that way in Sep this year.

Leave BK up to sandstone, Wiluna, then out the Gunbarrel, down the CS, maybe out and have a look at Sydney Yeo Chasm, then south to Esperance.

Trying to do a north south trip 80 mile to Esperance. did the top haft in 2005, will do middle latter

Richard
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Follow Up By: equinox - Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 00:01

Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 00:01
Cool that will be fun!!

I've heard the Neale Breakaways are pretty good too on the Connie Sue.

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Reply By: Gone Bush (WA) - Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 00:26

Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 00:26
Terrific !!

You must be very confident to go it alone. Good mechanical, bush survival, navigation skills I assume?

How much extra fuel did you carry over the std 180 litres?
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Follow Up By: equinox - Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 00:35

Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 00:35
I guess I like to reduce my risks wherever possible Gone Bush

I carried an extra 140 litres in 7 jerry cans and topped up at every opportunity. I didn't really do a complete fuel usage analysis but 320 litres goes a long long way!!

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Reply By: Member - Duncan W (WA) - Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 01:18

Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 01:18
Alan I've no idea where half ofthe places you describe but it sure as hell makes me want to pull out a map and find out more. I envy your exporer heart and the nerve and gumption to get out there and do it. Well done and a good read to boot.
Dunc
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Follow Up By: equinox - Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 12:20

Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 12:20
Thanks Duncan. Something I noticed too when I was out there is the number of younger people seemingly missing from the outback. Now at 38 I'm no spring chicken but I would hope that more younger people would venture out there instead of waiting for those later years.

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Reply By: Rick (S.A.) - Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 08:20

Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 08:20
Good stuff, Equinox.

What a thrill seeing those places you must have researched extensively.
And I know from experience that one is humbled by the navigational, organisational and endurance skills those first explorers demonstrated.

How did you do the navigating once you left Newman?

BTW, have you followed any of AC Gregory's tracks?

Cheers
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Follow Up By: equinox - Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 12:32

Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 12:32
Hi Rick,

Yes, as you know, there's nothing like the feeling you get when you arrive at an explorers site and sigh!!! - that feeling is worth every cent you paid to get to that point.

I navigated mostly using the moving map on the PDA. Get on the right bearing then pick a faraway tree or feature and stick to it. It's slack I know but an easier way to get the same result. It was helpful when I had to draw up a search grid in the field. I also had a handheld as a backup. Of course all the paper maps and a scale ruler and a brand new Suunto bearing compass I got off Ebay.

I have Gregory's journal, but have not studied it extensively. Maybe I should, so I can do a bit of "retracing" in the off season a bit closer to home.

Cheers

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Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 14:31

Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 14:31
yeah, Alan, very rewarding indeed.

I have not long got a Silva Sightmaster SM-P compass. It is very good when I wish to check bearings/sightings from original exploration diaries etc. Perhaps it is too accurate Vs the gear they used 100 to 180 years ago - especially if they were still mounted as they made their observations & notes.

tell me, when in the field, how do you allow for true N / declination / magnetic N etc??

Re the bearing on a faraway tree/rock/hill/object being "slack" - I wouldn't be too hard on yourself. After all, its just what those blokes did back then. You know the saying - if it ain't broke don't fix it - ..................

PS also have created a fresh J Mc Douall Stuart website. It is not yet complete, but has more info & more pictures. Go to www.johnmcdouallstuart.org.au

Cheers
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Follow Up By: equinox - Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 15:17

Sunday, Jul 08, 2007 at 15:17
Sounds like a good compass though I don't think you can be too accurate...

I presume your question about the various norths relates to comparison to old bearings taken by explorers. - so far I have been lucky and have worked in areas where I can compare a direct bearing taken at a known point by an explorer and then take my own bearing and take off (or add) the difference to use in that general area. If I ever have to extrapolate a bearing for some reason to the local variance for a particular year then I would use some sort of algorithm of which I believe Geoscience Australia has.

Well done on the website!!

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Reply By: Rowdy6032 - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 22:14

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 22:14
Hi Alan

Thanks for posting your summary.

Very interesting, I for one am envious.

Have you read "Sand, Soaks and Desert Oaks" by Peter Muir and "Do Not Yield to Despair(Frank HANN) by Mike Donaldson & Ian Elliot.

Both books are very interesting and cover areas that you covered.

You might have time to read them before your next trip :-)

Regards
Rowdy6032
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Follow Up By: equinox - Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 23:02

Monday, Jul 09, 2007 at 23:02
Thanks Rowdy,
I have heard of, and seen the Frank Hann book (and the price tag hehe) but have not read it.
I haven't heard of the Muir book - will investigate

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Follow Up By: Rowdy6032 - Tuesday, Jul 10, 2007 at 22:25

Tuesday, Jul 10, 2007 at 22:25
Both available at your local library for nix. They may have to order them in from another local library, so may take a week or two depending on whether they are booked out.

Muir was a dogger for the Agricultural Protection Board who ran the east side of the vermin proof fence out to the CSR, Wiluna to Jiggalong way and explored a large part of the area on his own.

Absolutely amazing to read what these old blokes did. He tells a great descriptive story. It does get a bit repetitious but bloody interesting for anyone who has an interest in that part of the country.

Regards
Rowdy6032
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